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OK... I know I said I would post some pics of the feeders we made last week, and I finally got the pics together and hopefully these will make some sense.
I am sorry for thread hogging with all of the pics in this...


We made 2 sizes, one holds about a gallon of feed, and one which holds about 4.5 gallons (+ or - a few cups)

The large one was sized so that I could put eye bolts on both sides of it near the top and then run 2" screws through those into my wall studs, which are on 16" centers.
The small one is designed with an extra board inside to allow a screw to be put through it into the wall stud for securing it. Since it is smaller and lighter it didn't need to span 2 studs for support. The support method could be adjusted it you want to hang it from a wire (like a picture frame)... this is just the methods of attachments which we chose.

These measurements are for the larger feeder.

I used a small carpenter's square for the angles... I can snap a pic of it if anyone needs clarification on what it is or how to use it. They are an invaluable little tool for any home project works!

For smaller feeder... back is 9.25" high,
front is 8"
Top flat is 1 and 1/8"
Total depth, front to back (not including lip for feed) is 3"
Depth of the lip for feed is 1.5"
Cut out of a piece of 1/2" plywood which is 11 3/4" long by 4.5" wide.

The width of the feeders can be a personal choice, the larger one I made 15 1/8" from outer edge to outer edge (this was due to my wanting to suspend it over 2 studs on 16" center.
We did 2 widths on the smaller feeders, one we made 10" wide, the other we did 8" wide.
Whatever width you decide you want, you will use that width to cut all of your pieces other than the sides... you will have a 'top flat', a lid, a posterior bottom (the long angle you see in the pic above), and an anterior (front) bottom.
You will also have a back panel, and a front panel, also the same width as all of the other pieces.

There are 2 pieces with an angled edge cut so it fits together smoother. This can be done with a regular circular saw or a table saw, the rest is done with just a circular saw or a jig saw.
We used 3/4", 18g nails, anything smaller and they bent over too much. 7/8" 17g nails would work also. Basically they are very small type finish nails
The hinges are basic, available even at WalMart, they are about 1.5", the screws which came with the hinges did poke through the back of the lid, so you can either just be careful when filling it or buy some smaller screws for the project.

We cut out the sides



To cut the posterior bottom section, measure from the bottom point to the edge of the back, but when you cut it, angle it @ a 45* angle so that when you attach the back panel it fits flush over it.

We did also glue the joint faces... but it is optional. Here the DH is gluing the faces where the anterior (front) bottom piece fits.

If you notice there is a narrow flat spot on the top of the feeder, you will cut a board to fit across that (shown in pic below, but I forgot to get a pic of it being added)
(out of order to show top board)... after you place the back panel piece on you will fit a piece of a solid hard board (I had some scrap oak 3/4"x1.5" which I used)
This is only on the smaller feeder, and this piece is used to allow you to suspend it from a single screw in the middle into a stud, so the board needs to be solid since it is bearing a lot of stress. I laid the board in at the top inside of the feeder and secured it with a 1.5" screw placed through the sides and into the board. I did predrill these holes to prevent the wood from splitting. (took a 1/8" drill bit for the screws I was using)


cut a piece of scrap paneling or other similar thin wood to cover the entire back, attach with glue and nails every few inches.



measure to the center of the support board and predrill a hanging hole, about a 1/4 or a 3/8" drill bit should be fine for this.

cut a piece of paneling to fit over the front face, the top edge will not reach the true top, and for ours I had the bottom about 1/4 inch from the bottom also.
You can do it two ways... like I did here, with an extra 'baffle' piece added in the next step to reduce the feed flow and prevent waste. or by cutting the front panel with a notched section that hangs down into the opening a bit to act as a baffle.
I opted to go with 2 pieces, this way I can remove it, or adjust it upward if I change feeds and need a larger opening for the larger pellets/feed
picture of the 'baffle' piece screwed in place, see how it hangs down into the feed opening area. This prevents feed from filling the trough right to the very top, which helps reduce it being flung out and wasted. The piece is placed with screws, so it can be adjusted or removed if needed. I have it hanging approx 1/2 inch down into the opening.

Measure for your lid, length depends on how much overhang you want, I opted for about an inch overhang, the top side will be cut at a 45* angle so it sits flush against the top flat board for hinging purposes.

line the 45* angle side to the top flat board, center the hinge and attach



Hang it from a stud and fill it.... notice how the screws do stick through the lid in this pic... (why I added this pic)

Enjoy!
We have 2 of these in use as 'peep feeders' where the youngest usually spend their first 2 weeks, and 2 more in the main coop, one with grit, one with oyster shell...

And as a refresher, here is the larger feeder in use... note the eye bolt visible near the top of it. There is one on each side and the screws through them into the studs support it securely.
 
fisherlady said:
OK... I know I said I would post some pics of the feeders we made last week, and I finally got the pics together and hopefully these will make some sense. I am sorry for thread hogging with all of the pics in this... We made 2 sizes, one holds about a gallon of feed, and one which holds about 4.5 gallons (+ or - a few cups) The large one was sized so that I could put eye bolts on both sides of it near the top and then run 2" screws through those into my wall studs, which are on 16" centers. The small one is designed with an extra board inside to allow a screw to be put through it into the wall stud for securing it. Since it is smaller and lighter it didn't need to span 2 studs for support. The support method could be adjusted it you want to hang it from a wire (like a picture frame)... this is just the methods of attachments which we chose. These measurements are for the larger feeder. I used a small carpenter's square for the angles... I can snap a pic of it if anyone needs clarification on what it is or how to use it. They are an invaluable little tool for any home project works! For smaller feeder... back is 9.25" high, front is 8" Top flat is 1 and 1/8" Total depth, front to back (not including lip for feed) is 3" Depth of the lip for feed is 1.5" Cut out of a piece of 1/2" plywood which is 11 3/4" long by 4.5" wide. The width of the feeders can be a personal choice, the larger one I made 15 1/8" from outer edge to outer edge (this was due to my wanting to suspend it over 2 studs on 16" center. We did 2 widths on the smaller feeders, one we made 10" wide, the other we did 8" wide. Whatever width you decide you want, you will use that width to cut all of your pieces other than the sides... you will have a 'top flat', a lid, a posterior bottom (the long angle you see in the pic above), and an anterior (front) bottom. You will also have a back panel, and a front panel, also the same width as all of the other pieces. There are 2 pieces with an angled edge cut so it fits together smoother. This can be done with a regular circular saw or a table saw, the rest is done with just a circular saw or a jig saw. We used 3/4", 18g nails, anything smaller and they bent over too much. 7/8" 17g nails would work also. Basically they are very small type finish nails The hinges are basic, available even at WalMart, they are about 1.5", the screws which came with the hinges did poke through the back of the lid, so you can either just be careful when filling it or buy some smaller screws for the project. We cut out the sides To cut the posterior bottom section, measure from the bottom point to the edge of the back, but when you cut it, angle it @ a 45* angle so that when you attach the back panel it fits flush over it. We did also glue the joint faces... but it is optional. Here the DH is gluing the faces where the anterior (front) bottom piece fits. If you notice there is a narrow flat spot on the top of the feeder, you will cut a board to fit across that (shown in pic below, but I forgot to get a pic of it being added) (out of order to show top board)... after you place the back panel piece on you will fit a piece of a solid hard board (I had some scrap oak 3/4"x1.5" which I used) This is only on the smaller feeder, and this piece is used to allow you to suspend it from a single screw in the middle into a stud, so the board needs to be solid since it is bearing a lot of stress. I laid the board in at the top inside of the feeder and secured it with a 1.5" screw placed through the sides and into the board. I did predrill these holes to prevent the wood from splitting. (took a 1/8" drill bit for the screws I was using) cut a piece of scrap paneling or other similar thin wood to cover the entire back, attach with glue and nails every few inches. measure to the center of the support board and predrill a hanging hole, about a 1/4 or a 3/8" drill bit should be fine for this. cut a piece of paneling to fit over the front face, the top edge will not reach the true top, and for ours I had the bottom about 1/4 inch from the bottom also. You can do it two ways... like I did here, with an extra 'baffle' piece added in the next step to reduce the feed flow and prevent waste. or by cutting the front panel with a notched section that hangs down into the opening a bit to act as a baffle. I opted to go with 2 pieces, this way I can remove it, or adjust it upward if I change feeds and need a larger opening for the larger pellets/feed picture of the 'baffle' piece screwed in place, see how it hangs down into the feed opening area. This prevents feed from filling the trough right to the very top, which helps reduce it being flung out and wasted. The piece is placed with screws, so it can be adjusted or removed if needed. I have it hanging approx 1/2 inch down into the opening. Measure for your lid, length depends on how much overhang you want, I opted for about an inch overhang, the top side will be cut at a 45* angle so it sits flush against the top flat board for hinging purposes. line the 45* angle side to the top flat board, center the hinge and attach Hang it from a stud and fill it.... notice how the screws do stick through the lid in this pic... (why I added this pic) Enjoy! We have 2 of these in use as 'peep feeders' where the youngest usually spend their first 2 weeks, and 2 more in the main coop, one with grit, one with oyster shell... And as a refresher, here is the larger feeder in use... note the eye bolt visible near the top of it. There is one on each side and the screws through them into the studs support it securely.
Click to expand...
Nice job!!
 
Omg they are adorable! So glad they're doing well. Can't wait to see what they look like when they get older!

Michele
 
MButerbaugh said:
Omg they are adorable! So glad they're doing well. Can't wait to see what they look like when they get older!

Michele
Click to expand...

I see you got the message!
They are absolutely adorable... they are incredibly fluffy, and boy do they have their daddy's cheeks! One I think will be colored like him also (already has the richest mahogany head)

I will send more pics as they grow...
 
fisherlady said:
OK... I know I said I would post some pics of the feeders we made last week, and I finally got the pics together and hopefully these will make some sense.
I am sorry for thread hogging with all of the pics in this...


We made 2 sizes, one holds about a gallon of feed, and one which holds about 4.5 gallons (+ or - a few cups)

The large one was sized so that I could put eye bolts on both sides of it near the top and then run 2" screws through those into my wall studs, which are on 16" centers.
The small one is designed with an extra board inside to allow a screw to be put through it into the wall stud for securing it. Since it is smaller and lighter it didn't need to span 2 studs for support. The support method could be adjusted it you want to hang it from a wire (like a picture frame)... this is just the methods of attachments which we chose.

These measurements are for the larger feeder.

I used a small carpenter's square for the angles... I can snap a pic of it if anyone needs clarification on what it is or how to use it. They are an invaluable little tool for any home project works!

For smaller feeder... back is 9.25" high,
front is 8"
Top flat is 1 and 1/8"
Total depth, front to back (not including lip for feed) is 3"
Depth of the lip for feed is 1.5"
Cut out of a piece of 1/2" plywood which is 11 3/4" long by 4.5" wide.

The width of the feeders can be a personal choice, the larger one I made 15 1/8" from outer edge to outer edge (this was due to my wanting to suspend it over 2 studs on 16" center.
We did 2 widths on the smaller feeders, one we made 10" wide, the other we did 8" wide.
Whatever width you decide you want, you will use that width to cut all of your pieces other than the sides... you will have a 'top flat', a lid, a posterior bottom (the long angle you see in the pic above), and an anterior (front) bottom.
You will also have a back panel, and a front panel, also the same width as all of the other pieces.

There are 2 pieces with an angled edge cut so it fits together smoother. This can be done with a regular circular saw or a table saw, the rest is done with just a circular saw or a jig saw.
We used 3/4", 18g nails, anything smaller and they bent over too much. 7/8" 17g nails would work also. Basically they are very small type finish nails
The hinges are basic, available even at WalMart, they are about 1.5", the screws which came with the hinges did poke through the back of the lid, so you can either just be careful when filling it or buy some smaller screws for the project.

We cut out the sides



To cut the posterior bottom section, measure from the bottom point to the edge of the back, but when you cut it, angle it @ a 45* angle so that when you attach the back panel it fits flush over it.

We did also glue the joint faces... but it is optional. Here the DH is gluing the faces where the anterior (front) bottom piece fits.

If you notice there is a narrow flat spot on the top of the feeder, you will cut a board to fit across that (shown in pic below, but I forgot to get a pic of it being added)
(out of order to show top board)... after you place the back panel piece on you will fit a piece of a solid hard board (I had some scrap oak 3/4"x1.5" which I used)
This is only on the smaller feeder, and this piece is used to allow you to suspend it from a single screw in the middle into a stud, so the board needs to be solid since it is bearing a lot of stress. I laid the board in at the top inside of the feeder and secured it with a 1.5" screw placed through the sides and into the board. I did predrill these holes to prevent the wood from splitting. (took a 1/8" drill bit for the screws I was using)


cut a piece of scrap paneling or other similar thin wood to cover the entire back, attach with glue and nails every few inches.



measure to the center of the support board and predrill a hanging hole, about a 1/4 or a 3/8" drill bit should be fine for this.

cut a piece of paneling to fit over the front face, the top edge will not reach the true top, and for ours I had the bottom about 1/4 inch from the bottom also.
You can do it two ways... like I did here, with an extra 'baffle' piece added in the next step to reduce the feed flow and prevent waste. or by cutting the front panel with a notched section that hangs down into the opening a bit to act as a baffle.
I opted to go with 2 pieces, this way I can remove it, or adjust it upward if I change feeds and need a larger opening for the larger pellets/feed
picture of the 'baffle' piece screwed in place, see how it hangs down into the feed opening area. This prevents feed from filling the trough right to the very top, which helps reduce it being flung out and wasted. The piece is placed with screws, so it can be adjusted or removed if needed. I have it hanging approx 1/2 inch down into the opening.

Measure for your lid, length depends on how much overhang you want, I opted for about an inch overhang, the top side will be cut at a 45* angle so it sits flush against the top flat board for hinging purposes.

line the 45* angle side to the top flat board, center the hinge and attach



Hang it from a stud and fill it.... notice how the screws do stick through the lid in this pic... (why I added this pic)

Enjoy!
We have 2 of these in use as 'peep feeders' where the youngest usually spend their first 2 weeks, and 2 more in the main coop, one with grit, one with oyster shell...

And as a refresher, here is the larger feeder in use... note the eye bolt visible near the top of it. There is one on each side and the screws through them into the studs support it securely.
Click to expand...
These feeders are very similar to the ones I have made and use, almost to a T'. Great minds think alike.
 
fisherlady said:
OK... I know I said I would post some pics of the feeders we made last week, and I finally got the pics together and hopefully these will make some sense.
I am sorry for thread hogging with all of the pics in this...


We made 2 sizes, one holds about a gallon of feed, and one which holds about 4.5 gallons (+ or - a few cups)

The large one was sized so that I could put eye bolts on both sides of it near the top and then run 2" screws through those into my wall studs, which are on 16" centers.
The small one is designed with an extra board inside to allow a screw to be put through it into the wall stud for securing it. Since it is smaller and lighter it didn't need to span 2 studs for support. The support method could be adjusted it you want to hang it from a wire (like a picture frame)... this is just the methods of attachments which we chose.

These measurements are for the larger feeder.

I used a small carpenter's square for the angles... I can snap a pic of it if anyone needs clarification on what it is or how to use it. They are an invaluable little tool for any home project works!

For smaller feeder... back is 9.25" high,
front is 8"
Top flat is 1 and 1/8"
Total depth, front to back (not including lip for feed) is 3"
Depth of the lip for feed is 1.5"
Cut out of a piece of 1/2" plywood which is 11 3/4" long by 4.5" wide.

The width of the feeders can be a personal choice, the larger one I made 15 1/8" from outer edge to outer edge (this was due to my wanting to suspend it over 2 studs on 16" center.
We did 2 widths on the smaller feeders, one we made 10" wide, the other we did 8" wide.
Whatever width you decide you want, you will use that width to cut all of your pieces other than the sides... you will have a 'top flat', a lid, a posterior bottom (the long angle you see in the pic above), and an anterior (front) bottom.
You will also have a back panel, and a front panel, also the same width as all of the other pieces.

There are 2 pieces with an angled edge cut so it fits together smoother. This can be done with a regular circular saw or a table saw, the rest is done with just a circular saw or a jig saw.
We used 3/4", 18g nails, anything smaller and they bent over too much. 7/8" 17g nails would work also. Basically they are very small type finish nails
The hinges are basic, available even at WalMart, they are about 1.5", the screws which came with the hinges did poke through the back of the lid, so you can either just be careful when filling it or buy some smaller screws for the project.

We cut out the sides



To cut the posterior bottom section, measure from the bottom point to the edge of the back, but when you cut it, angle it @ a 45* angle so that when you attach the back panel it fits flush over it.

We did also glue the joint faces... but it is optional. Here the DH is gluing the faces where the anterior (front) bottom piece fits.

If you notice there is a narrow flat spot on the top of the feeder, you will cut a board to fit across that (shown in pic below, but I forgot to get a pic of it being added)
(out of order to show top board)... after you place the back panel piece on you will fit a piece of a solid hard board (I had some scrap oak 3/4"x1.5" which I used)
This is only on the smaller feeder, and this piece is used to allow you to suspend it from a single screw in the middle into a stud, so the board needs to be solid since it is bearing a lot of stress. I laid the board in at the top inside of the feeder and secured it with a 1.5" screw placed through the sides and into the board. I did predrill these holes to prevent the wood from splitting. (took a 1/8" drill bit for the screws I was using)


cut a piece of scrap paneling or other similar thin wood to cover the entire back, attach with glue and nails every few inches.



measure to the center of the support board and predrill a hanging hole, about a 1/4 or a 3/8" drill bit should be fine for this.

cut a piece of paneling to fit over the front face, the top edge will not reach the true top, and for ours I had the bottom about 1/4 inch from the bottom also.
You can do it two ways... like I did here, with an extra 'baffle' piece added in the next step to reduce the feed flow and prevent waste. or by cutting the front panel with a notched section that hangs down into the opening a bit to act as a baffle.
I opted to go with 2 pieces, this way I can remove it, or adjust it upward if I change feeds and need a larger opening for the larger pellets/feed
picture of the 'baffle' piece screwed in place, see how it hangs down into the feed opening area. This prevents feed from filling the trough right to the very top, which helps reduce it being flung out and wasted. The piece is placed with screws, so it can be adjusted or removed if needed. I have it hanging approx 1/2 inch down into the opening.

Measure for your lid, length depends on how much overhang you want, I opted for about an inch overhang, the top side will be cut at a 45* angle so it sits flush against the top flat board for hinging purposes.

line the 45* angle side to the top flat board, center the hinge and attach



Hang it from a stud and fill it.... notice how the screws do stick through the lid in this pic... (why I added this pic)

Enjoy!
We have 2 of these in use as 'peep feeders' where the youngest usually spend their first 2 weeks, and 2 more in the main coop, one with grit, one with oyster shell...

And as a refresher, here is the larger feeder in use... note the eye bolt visible near the top of it. There is one on each side and the screws through them into the studs support it securely.
Click to expand...
This is amazing and looks easy enought to remake, especially with your wonderful step by step! I think I'll have to sneak this idea into my final hen house design
thumbsup.gif
 
Hello! My name is Trish. I just joined here and I'm from Canonsburg, PA. (I grew up in Eighty Four, I didn't move far... LOL) Does anyone know Canonsburg laws for keeping chickens? Thanks!
 

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