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fisherlady said:
I'm not sure any would be easy, but some would offer easier clues to go by.
The body shapes and comb/wattle issue are more notable on exam and can often be adjusted by breeding to a bird with strong positives where the other bird lacks.
Feathering is much more difficult in my opinion, primarily when there is a pattern involved, not so much if just trying to correct for being too fluffy around the legs or too much puff near the tail. Color and patterns involve many genetic factors and recessive genes can be very hard to weed out or even be uncovered as a culprit without many generations of genetic info known. Some birds have base silver instead of gold? But aren't silver or gold colored...yet those base genes can greatly impact the coloration of offspring. I get overwhelmed very quickly when feather genetics become an issue.
I try to breed to standard as far as good body types, personalities, egging and proper feather colors...I still get birds sometimes with feather color problems and have made a point to not breed these birds forward to avoid messing up otherwise good genetics, but honestly, feather color and pattern is lowest on my list of what I consider important in a bird. Go figure...it is usually the most important first impression or disqualifying factor but does the least to benefit a backyard bird.
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Thanks. I figured that the feathering would be the most difficult and headache inducing. When showing birds looks are everything.
 
dheltzel said:
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Dheltzel, I think my Cali Gray girl is going to make a full recovery. She is no longer fluffed up, has increased her activity, and seems to have a bit more color. Just thought you'd like to know.
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hippiechickX4 said:
We are in the process of trying tO design the inside of the new coop. We are housing 28 chickens. Any suggestions or an "if I had it to do over again" tips? I read some where that you should put your roost at the same level so their is less fight for a spot in the higher roost. We will need at least 2 roost to accommodate them all. Anyone heard if this? Nesting boxes...inside the coop or built boxes that hang off the coop?
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I'd like an answer to this too! Please!
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hippiechickX4 said:
We are in the process of trying tO design the inside of the new coop. We are housing 28 chickens. Any suggestions or an "if I had it to do over again" tips? I read some where that you should put your roost at the same level so their is less fight for a spot in the higher roost. We will need at least 2 roost to accommodate them all. Anyone heard if this? Nesting boxes...inside the coop or built boxes that hang off the coop?
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I prefer the nesting boxes that hang off the coop because they save so much space inside the coop but that's a personal perspective because every coop and person is different. My roosts are at different levels and what ever ones get to the highest that's where they stay they don't fight for the highest place. And if you had to rebuild I think that's what you mean I suggest high and low ventalation so the ammonia can escape. And you need winter and year round ventilation. But ya I reccomend to have the roost at different levels and the nesting boxes off the side of the coop and make sure your nesting boxes are lower than the roost.
 
AnneInTheBurbs said:
Dheltzel, I think my Cali Gray girl is going to make a full recovery. She is no longer fluffed up, has increased her activity, and seems to have a bit more color. Just thought you'd like to know.
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I'm glad she is doing well now. I didn't hatch a lot of these, but I'm so impressed with their laying that I wish I had hatched more to sell as chicks. I will hatch more next year for sure. They lay like Leghorns, but I think barred chickens look so much better than the plain white ones.
 
hippiechickX4 said:
We are in the process of trying tO design the inside of the new coop. We are housing 28 chickens. Any suggestions or an "if I had it to do over again" tips? I read some where that you should put your roost at the same level so their is less fight for a spot in the higher roost. We will need at least 2 roost to accommodate them all. Anyone heard if this? Nesting boxes...inside the coop or built boxes that hang off the coop?
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I always go for the "quick and dirty" (and cheapest) approach, so all my nestboxes are inside the coops. Roosts are where ever I can fit them. You get the idea. The only place I never cut corners is when securing against predators. I figure they can survive with slightly sub-optimal conditions until I can make it better, but if a coon chews their head off, then I have no chance to make things better for them in the future. I have a long "to do" list of little improvements I plan to make. Here is a list of things I consider when designing the coop layout (in rough order of priority, for me):
1. predator safe (can anything dig under, climb over, or put their little hands into, the coop)
2. weather-proof - can it stand up to the wind/rain/snow/hail/etc
3. easy access to get feed and water into the coop (and get out eggs)
4. ventilation - lots and lots for the summer, but more "flow controlled" for the winter
5. easy access for cleaning - movable roosts, poop boards, removably nest boxes are all very handy. Moveable coops are really "the bomb" for cleaning, just drag them to fresh grass and let the next rainstorm clean the old poop away.
6. display - make it fun to view and interact with the birds. Do they have plenty of space to move around, dust bathe, etc
 
AnneInTheBurbs said:
Thanks! Agreed, I like the barred look better.

@stake , your little roo was practicing crowing this morning. LOL! He's so cute right now with his barred coloring, I'm hoping the hubs will let me keep him....
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If he makes too much noise and you have to get rid of him, maybe you can try a Bielefelder roo. I swear, those are the biggest, gentlest, quietest roos I have. I have 2 fully grown pairs in a rather small pen and those roos never fight with each other or the roos they see through the wire. The other roos get all worked up about them, but they seem to just look on placidly, I guess they know they are the big kids on the block and won't ever really get taken down by anything less than a tom turkey. I can't recall ever hearing either of my roos crow, though I'm sure they must, they just don't obsess about it like the others.

I'm not sold on the practicality of Biels, but they are a unique breed and probably have a place in backyard flocks where their productivity is not paramount.
 
hippiechickX4 said:
We are in the process of trying tO design the inside of the new coop. We are housing 28 chickens. Any suggestions or an "if I had it to do over again" tips? I read some where that you should put your roost at the same level so their is less fight for a spot in the higher roost. We will need at least 2 roost to accommodate them all. Anyone heard if this? Nesting boxes...inside the coop or built boxes that hang off the coop?
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Ok, things I would do different:
Make it MUCH bigger! Lol
Poop boards under the roosts are a must, removable for easy cleaning would be better
Make it big enough to stand in (mine is, but I have to climb up in. Needs stairs lol)

Roosts:
My roosts are about 6" in difference hight wise but they run along opposite walls. They don't seem to really care about the height. Honestly, the low roost, right in front of the window is the coveted spot. I would add more windows if I did it again.

Nest boxes:
I agree with what someone else said, have them hang out the side for more for space inside the coop. Our nest boxes extend out of the coop but are inside the attached shed. Makes collecting eggs just fine even when it's pouring down rain.
 
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