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Hi I tried writing to the sick chickens forum, but so far no help so I am writing here. I have a 4 month old frizzle bantam chick who is very lethargic. I have been spoon feeding her (putting the food in her mouth) and giving her water with an eyedropper. I am giving her corid drench and also Vitamin E with selenium. Feeding her egg yolk and/or a little feed with yogurt.

Her poops were initially all white but now that I am force feeding her, the poops look 100% normal. She perks up while I am feeding her and the rest of the day sleeps with her head down. I have a little makeshift roost for her which she enjoys, but I have to put her on it. Once on she will stay several hours and eventually jump off and go into the corner. I have her inside in a pack n'play, nice and warm and cozy. She likes it dark == when I turn on the light she tends to move into the darker areas.

No one else in the flock appears sick. She was Mareks vaxed at birth. No sign of mites or anything like that. Her feathers are well kept. Crop empty in the morning.

I'd love to save her -- any other suggestions?
 

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feliciadawn said:
Hi I tried writing to the sick chickens forum, but so far no help so I am writing here. I have a 4 month old frizzle bantam chick who is very lethargic. I have been spoon feeding her (putting the food in her mouth) and giving her water with an eyedropper. I am giving her corid drench and also Vitamin E with selenium. Feeding her egg yolk and/or a little feed with yogurt.

Her poops were initially all white but now that I am force feeding her, the poops look 100% normal. She perks up while I am feeding her and the rest of the day sleeps with her head down. I have a little makeshift roost for her which she enjoys, but I have to put her on it. Once on she will stay several hours and eventually jump off and go into the corner. I have her inside in a pack n'play, nice and warm and cozy. She likes it dark == when I turn on the light she tends to move into the darker areas.

No one else in the flock appears sick. She was Mareks vaxed at birth. No sign of mites or anything like that. Her feathers are well kept. Crop empty in the morning.

I'd love to save her -- any other suggestions?
Click to expand...

I always heard that you never want to give vitamins at the same time as corid because they can cancel each other out but I'm not sure if it's specific vitamins or not. What's your corid dosage? 2tsp per gallon is what I use in extreme cases and fresh must be mixed up daily. I've had polish in the past that seemed to be really sensitive to coccidiosis. I lost several to it even with heavy treatment but my favorite roo, Nigel beat it. It took weeks of treatment but he eventually pulled through.
 
OneMountainAcres said:
I always heard that you never want to give vitamins at the same time as corid because they can cancel each other out but I'm not sure if it's specific vitamins or not. What's your corid dosage? 2tsp per gallon is what I use in extreme cases and fresh must be mixed up daily. I've had polish in the past that seemed to be really sensitive to coccidiosis. I lost several to it even with heavy treatment but my favorite roo, Nigel beat it. It took weeks of treatment but he eventually pulled through.
Click to expand...
Corid inhibits the growth of coccidia by inhibiting their uptake or use of thiamine. It doesn't kill them as an antibiotic would, but by slowing their reproduction gives the host time to build up an immune response. This why they say "no vitamins", and it makes some sense in that you don't want to flood the environment of the coccidia with thiamine, as that might counteract the effect of the corid.
I believe coccidiosis is quite rare in older birds because they built up immunity as chicks. The exceptions being when an older bird is moved to a new place (they might encounter a new species or stain of coccidia they have no immunity to), or when other stresses increase (stress can suppress an immune response). So Corid can be helpful even for older birds, and it seems to not cause harm, even in high doses.
Though it is not labeled to do this, I have given a few drops of straight medicine to birds that are near death, as they are unlikely to even drink in that state and need help ASAP. If the bird it drinking ok, that is not needed, as you can just increase the dosage a bit in their water if you want.
I dearly love the frizzles, but like silkies, they are not as well adapted to harsh conditions as normal chickens. They are worth some extra care, but it is not surprising if they don't thrive all the time or have shortened lives.
 
dheltzel said:
Corid inhibits the growth of coccidia by inhibiting their uptake or use of thiamine. It doesn't kill them as an antibiotic would, but by slowing their reproduction gives the host time to build up an immune response. This why they say "no vitamins", and it makes some sense in that you don't want to flood the environment of the coccidia with thiamine, as that might counteract the effect of the corid.
Click to expand...
I am not at all certain coccidia is the issue, and when I gave her just corid/no electrolytes for several days she got worse, went back to not eating and keeps twisting her head back. Now I have her on dewormer (Safeguard) for 5 days and off Corid, but really she is not getting better. Still has foamy mostly white poops, eats sparingly because she just falls asleep after a few bites. Whatever is wrong, I think the corid was making her worse. She may have a crop issue since she sleeps twisting her head all the way back next to her wing, which I think is a sign of bursa pain?
 
Hey y'all, I'm looking to re-home my 2 drakes(one Pekin and one khaki Campbell). Looking to give them away to a good home who isn't looking to eat them lol. They're a year and a half old roughly and in great shape. Would do well in bachelor flock or as breeding birds, but not for eating. I'm located just north of Pittsburgh
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feliciadawn said:
I am not at all certain coccidia is the issue, and when I gave her just corid/no electrolytes for several days she got worse, went back to not eating and keeps twisting her head back. Now I have her on dewormer (Safeguard) for 5 days and off Corid, but really she is not getting better. Still has foamy mostly white poops, eats sparingly because she just falls asleep after a few bites. Whatever is wrong, I think the corid was making her worse. She may have a crop issue since she sleeps twisting her head all the way back next to her wing, which I think is a sign of bursa pain?
Click to expand...
Does she have wry neck? You can try vitamin E and B Complex for wry neck. Although, I remember one of my vaccinated pullet had the similar symptoms when she's sick from Marek's. She was getting better for a while and was still laying one week before she died. I have only successfully saved one vaccinated hen from Marek's by adding Baikal Skullcap, oregano, and St. John's wort to her feed when I tube feeding her. Not even sure if she recovered herself or these herbs really helped.
 
OneMountainAcres said:
I always heard that you never want to give vitamins at the same time as corid because they can cancel each other out but I'm not sure if it's specific vitamins or not. What's your corid dosage? 2tsp per gallon is what I use in extreme cases and fresh must be mixed up daily. I've had polish in the past that seemed to be really sensitive to coccidiosis. I lost several to it even with heavy treatment but my favorite roo, Nigel beat it. It took weeks of treatment but he eventually pulled through.
Click to expand...
That is absolutely true! Corid works by blocking the B vitamins that coccidiosis needs to thrive. Adding vitamins adds the B's back in, negating the Corid. So ... NO vitamins or medicated feed during Corid treatments!
Unfortunately, your chickens also require the Bs, so be sure to add the vitamins back in as soon as you stop the Corid. It should keep your birds from "crashing."
EDIT to add: Corid (amprolium) is a pretty benign treatment. If coccidia is not our issue, it shouldn't hurt your birds. If it IS the issue, the stuff works like magic!
 

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