Please comment on a coop we're considering

[elmo]

Quote:
In my opinion, you're putting the cart before the horse. I think it would be much better if you started reading and researching about chickens, and then and only then started planning how you're going to house them.

Most prefab housing for chickens (like nearly all commercial bird cages, too) is built not by what the creature to be housed in them needs, but by what the manufacturer believes consumers will buy. They aren't the same thing because many consumers don't know that much about the needs of the creatures they're planning to buy! That's why you see chicken coops without adequate ventilation and that are difficult to clean, and why you see birdcages that are tall and narrow rather than wide. Caged birds can't fly straight up and down like helicopters, but a tall and narrow cage fits nicely into a living room corner, so that's what sells better.

Gail Damerow's book is a good place to start:

http://www.amazon.com/Storeys-Guide...4-5967136?ie=UTF8&qid=1297006614&sr=1-2-spell

or you really could get a complete education simply by browsing these forums and reading, reading, reading.

 

[froggiesheins]

Quote:
In my opinion, you're putting the cart before the horse. I think it would be much better if you started reading and researching about chickens, and then and only then started planning how you're going to house them.

Most prefab housing for chickens (like nearly all commercial bird cages, too) is built not by what the creature to be housed in them needs, but by what the manufacturer believes consumers will buy. They aren't the same thing because many consumers don't know that much about the needs of the creatures they're planning to buy! That's why you see chicken coops without adequate ventilation and that are difficult to clean, and why you see birdcages that are tall and narrow rather than wide. Caged birds can't fly straight up and down like helicopters, but a tall and narrow cage fits nicely into a living room corner, so that's what sells better.

Gail Damerow's book is a good place to start:

http://www.amazon.com/Storeys-Guide...4-5967136?ie=UTF8&qid=1297006614&sr=1-2-spell

or you really could get a complete education simply by browsing these forums and reading, reading, reading.

AND THIS POST IS ONE HECK OF AN EDUCATION IN ITSELF!

My 2cents. I started with 2 peeps, I modified my dogs "playpen" (that I had made out of wood & wire) to house them at the beginning. I then started building a coop for them out of what-nots I had at home and what I scoured from curbs/swapmeets etc...... I have a small city lot and this is what I came up with...The smaller coop is the "jailcell" everythineg else is open for them to free range in. The only predators I have to contend with are feral cats. Bigger coop has a ramp to go up and down. EZE to clean the coop, 36" off the ground (that coop built on an old table).
This comfortably houses 4 bantams and 2 seramas. The 2 seramas come in the house at night. P.S. That second coop was the dogs playpen.

 

[chkn]

Did you look at this amazon one somebody was recomending today on another thread:

http://www.amazon.com/Pawhut-Deluxe...DXBO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1297019428&sr=8-3

 

[chickerdoodle]

You can check the coop pages on this forum for good ideas. There are small and medium ones that would be more like what you are looking for (unless you move

)

I have 5 standard size ladies and you can see my coop if you check out my page (its under my Avatar). I made it for security, comfort and ease of cleaning. Its hard and/or very expensive to buy one that fits all your needs with quality materials so it makes sense to build it yourself.

Remember that space is important for them as they need to relieve boredom and be able to exercise to stay healthy. Its wise to have a few perches in the run or other safe perching area for them to hop on and off as well as space to fly a bit. Bantams would do best with at least 8 sq. feet per bird (MORE is better if you can't let them out every day) as they love to be active.

 

[Dogfish]

First of all, OSB is fine to build with. Cedar is fine to build with, for exterior shingles, etc. Don't use cedar for your structural wood unless you have money to burn. Don't use cedar shavings.

I'm in the Olympia area as well, just a few miles west of you. If you need someone to build a coop, I have built many structures from sheds to our home. Anyway, just a few examples of what I've built in the last 12 months. Plain or fancy, or even just made so it matches your house.

segregation pen

coon/possum trap (you have these critters around your area)

Protected run

Coop

Rollout nest box

Kennel

Fenced in garden

shop

house

 

[Cargo]

Here we go this is the message in question:

Brand New, assembled. Never had pets in it.

You can have this disassembled by taking a few screws out and store it till you're ready for the chickens.

With smart, predator-proof latches on all three doors and 1/2" x 1/2" galvanized wire netting on the sides of the run, this coop is safe from predators. Just close the handy sliding door from the coop to the run at dusk to prevent burrowing predators from gaining access.

Brand New, assembled, never had pets in it.

Features:

It has a raised sleeping area well off the ground for no dampness, with ramp for easy access.
Added benefit of having a raised house means that rats and other vermin cannot burrow underneath the house.
Made from top quality dried fir (semi hardwood).
Will not distort or rot.
Fully treated bio friendly.
Fully Covered Run For Extra Protection.
Harmless to animals and plants.
All solid timber for extra strength and durability.
Planed timber so no splinters.
Top quality wire.
No nails, only screws.
Fully weather treated with water based preservative.
Nest Box.
Removable floor in roosting area for easy cleaning.
Fox Proof stainless steel slide bolts.
Living area off the ground.
2 Locking Entrance Doors to living area.
Window for light access.
Dimensions:
78"L x 30"W x 41" H includes roof and nesting box.
2 section nesting box - 13-1/2"L x 24-1/2"W x 15"H.
Perch roosting space 27L x 22-1/4W x 26-1/2"H.
The floor area of the run is approximately 64-1/2" L x 27.5" W.
Covered area below the coop (27"L x 22"W x 13"H) is included in the run area total.
Ideal for up to approximately 3 - 5 chickens depending on their size.
If interested, please email or call 4 2 5 - 7 3 6 - 1 2 6 6

 

[Gypsi]

Now that I see the actual picture, for 2 or 3 birds, preferably not full size, that is not too bad for $250. I'd take some white kilz to it, sealed or not, if you get as much rainy weather as I think you get.

All in all, I spent about $300 on mine by the time it was done, (Possibly including the $50 in labor to one of my helpers to get the run door and coop roof on). , and I already had the tin roofing for the roofed end of the run, and a fair sized wood pile begging to be used up so I could quit tripping on it or moving it out of the way. Mind you, my run is 8 ft by 12 ft, my coop 4 ft by 5 ft, sits 2 ft off the ground, dual doors open on the front for easy cleaning, center height about 4ft. Most of my perches are in the run, but the 5 ft perch in the coop handled 6 full sized hens during the last freeze. You can see not up to date pics on my byc page. No current ones, been busy. It never got all the way painted, I will be changing a couple of pieces of plywood within a year or 2, but the frame is sound.

 

[upthecreek]

Quote:
AMEN !!!!!

you see birdcages that are tall and narrow rather than wide. Caged birds can't fly straight up and down like helicopters, but a tall and narrow cage fits nicely into a living room corner, so that's what sells better.

Gail Damerow's book is a good place to start:

http://www.amazon.com/Storeys-Guide...4-5967136?ie=UTF8&qid=1297006614&sr=1-2-spell

or you really could get a complete education simply by browsing these forums and reading, reading, reading.