HenOnAJuneBug
Crowing
- May 20, 2015
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That's what overcoming fear, practice and self-control prevents.
Please help me kill this ermine-nothing is working!
- Thread starter mcclucker
- Start date
That's what overcoming fear, practice and self-control prevents.
HenOnAJuneBug
Crowing
- May 20, 2015
- 2,719
- 5,788
- 392
Hmmm?! Where do you live? Oh VT... n/m
- Thread starter
- #73
A lot of times a new trap smells. We can't smell it, but critters can. Rub your trap down with bait and just let it sit. It will get funky, but will get to a point were you won't smell it, but they will. Put the trap where he is/was trying to get in. I also will loose bait, so they get excited about easy food and keep moving on to more, which the next time will be in the trap.
Sorry you're not closer I'd not only take care of the bugger for you, but I'd teach you to shoot and be confident with it.
Sorry you're not closer I'd not only take care of the bugger for you, but I'd teach you to shoot and be confident with it.
I like watching the nightly battle for "THE spot".
That is a very good point. On "Life Below Zero" they frequently boil their new traps to get rid of the oils and odors.
I’d be using something bigger than a pellet gun! 
When I set my traps and snare, I use my nastiest mucking out gloves. Better they smell of livestock then people.
- Apr 13, 2018
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When it's cold like this it gets tough. If you have a trapping supply place near by, you can find some lure/bait that has glycerin added to prevent freezing.... some sporting goods places carry this type of lure as well.
Maybe some fishy smelling catfood or sardines?
Often with cubbys (boxes in this case) I want the scent to flow through, rather than just staying in the cubby/box, so having some air flow across the bait helps, so a hole in both ends of the boxes helps with this, so maybe hardware screen on the bait end hole, and trap end hole left open.
For the 110s the boxes need to have a slot in the sides to allow the springs to protrude, something like this picture... note that you can build a long box with a trap on each end and bait in the center... also be sure to bend and spread the wire triggers out a bit
Typically, when targeting a specific pest critter, I'll set heavy using a lot of traps, and "chum" it a bit, by placing some nibbles of bait/meat out in front of the set... in the case of the weasel boxes maybe a nibble sitting right in the hole of the box... in the case of the 110s maybe a bit poked on the trigger wire and slid up/down.. note you can flip the 110s so the trigger is on the bottom, so the critter has to climb over too.
Sometimes I'll chum heavy for a night or two with no traps set, often with a game camera set up... this can tell you a lot about how to adjust, and eliminates the critter getting trap shy due to a miss fire, etc. Once it's coming and going with confidence you can set the traps... this is a good way to deal with multiple individuals as well, as it gets them all coming in.
I just read you had a dead chicken still ... I think I would pull some feathers and rub them with liver/blood and spread them out in front of your set to use as chum.
Some times it's a long game when going after a specific critter, because you're educating them the whole time.... I once educated ( and fattened up) a grey fox over the course of a few weeks ... each day my trap was robbed of bait, and I'd adjust... same thing the next day...I never did catch the silly thing.
Are you setting the traps in the coop, in a shed, outside?
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Did he break through the hardware cloth or somewhere else that didn't have hardware cloth?
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