Possible egg eater in my flock

[Crazy Maizie]

I have two bielefelders, two lavender Orpington, and a RIR. I’ve been feeding them an all flock crumble for about a month to try and boost their protein due to low egg production, but it hasn’t made a difference. If anything, I’ve been getting fewer eggs since switching form the normal layer feed.

I feed an all flock and have for years. It is essential to have oyster shell on the side no matter what feed is offered, but especially with an all flock feed. Having oyster shell available helps them to regulate their own calcium needs even if they are on layer feed. If temps are high, egg laying slows and you can have thin shells. Any predator issues? stressors? Have they ever been dewormed? What else are they fed besides feed? Generally it's advised to cut out all extras when issues arise as treats - mealworms, scratch, etc can dilute their nutritional needs.

 

[Crazy Maizie]

I've read through your other threads. Just wondering if you're sure of the hens ages since you got them from someone else? I only say this because sometimes people will sell hens and fib about the ages to sell them. Just food for thought especially since you stated that they've always been low layers. The breeds you have are actually great layers and should lay well past the 2 year mark. Also, even though it's been awhile, you administered an antibiotic, but I couldn't find the reason or missed it. Just trying to figure out if there's anything else going on.

 

[hennybee]

I didn’t read if you are providing oyster shell on the side?

yes, they have oyster shells in a separate dish.

 

[hennybee]

I feed an all flock and have for years. It is essential to have oyster shell on the side no matter what feed is offered, but especially with an all flock feed. Having oyster shell available helps them to regulate their own calcium needs even if they are on layer feed. If temps are high, egg laying slows and you can have thin shells. Any predator issues? stressors? Have they ever been dewormed? What else are they fed besides feed? Generally it's advised to cut out all extras when issues arise as treats - mealworms, scratch, etc can dilute their nutritional needs.

I don't believe there are any predators. I live in a small town and the hens are fairly close to my house, plus there is a street light keeping things somewhat lit up all night. I dewormed them at beginning of June. The only treats I've been giving them are meal worms two to four times/week, some lettuce once every two weeks, and some berries probably once/month. There is one thing I did change, though. They used to have nesting pads with fake straw in their nesting boxes. I ran out of them and haven't ordered more, so they've only had silicone liners in the boxes for the past six to eight weeks. Would that cause them stress enough to stop laying?

 

[hennybee]

@hennybee , an egg eater can be a chicken , or maybe a rat or a snake?
Are you sure its a chicken who eats the eggs? Camera?

To get a better idea of the we need to know what breed(s) you have and how the live. Most breeds with 2yo chickens should lay more eggs than a few each week as you say. So maybe it is a food thing way from the start.
But it can be something else too.

Where do you live? Whats the temp?
What do you feed them? How much protein, calcium , other ingredients? Did you ever try another brand?
Could it be stress related that they don’t lay much?
How big is their coop and run? Do they have access to herbs and grasses? a compost pile? Sun and shade? A sandbath? Did you ever check on parasites?

It might help if you can let them free range 1-2 hours before roost time. Supervised if the predator is very high where you live.

I live in PA. The temp has been high, mid 80's to high 90's. Layer feed, a side of oyster shells. I have switched brands without change. I believe the coop and run are suitable for five hens. They free range for a couple hours in evening about five days/week. They never go near the compost pile (I'm always outside watching them when they are out of the run). They have a soft cover over the run for shade, plus I point a fan towards the run on the hotter days. They have a sand box. There is no visible sign of external parasites.

 

[hennybee]

I've read through your other threads. Just wondering if you're sure of the hens ages since you got them from someone else? I only say this because sometimes people will sell hens and fib about the ages to sell them. Just food for thought especially since you stated that they've always been low layers. The breeds you have are actually great layers and should lay well past the 2 year mark. Also, even though it's been awhile, you administered an antibiotic, but I couldn't find the reason or missed it. Just trying to figure out if there's anything else going on.

I treated them for coccidiosis before, but never had the infection confirmed. I had one really sick hen who did recover after plenty of nursing, but I'm still not sure what caused her illness. Possibly worms, but she remained sick for a while after i dewormed her. She seems healthy now, though, and actually took a dominant position in the flock since. I keep wondering if they're repeatedly getting infected by worms, but I don't see worms in their poop, and if that's the case, what can I do besides the obvious to stop them from getting continually infested? I spread lime and keep things as dry as possible (I use pine shavings and bedding pellets), and their coop is kept clean.

 

[McChooky]

1 egg a day =365 eggs a year=6 eggs a month per hen (thereabout) The surest way to get more eggs is to replace your layers every 2 years. If you buy a 2 year old hen you're buying one past its prime

 

[McChooky]

It could be the heat affecting laying.

Neither one of my welsummers have laid in a month.Its been hot too.
I doubt both of them are eating their eggs .Ones is missing her tail feathers so something might have grabbed one of them and she got away.They hang out together

 

[BDutch]

with fake straw in their nesting boxes.

I hope you don’t use any plastic material, but only natural harmless material. In general chickens are more vulnerable to chemicals and softeners in plastics than humans.

I live in PA. The temp has been high, mid 80's to high 90's. Layer feed, a side of oyster shells. I have switched brands without change.

I thought you had very few eggs in spring too when there was no heat bothering them? Its true that temps around 90-100F influences their wellbeing and its normal if they lay less or no eggs when its getting hot. If you have older chickens it explains they don’t lay much anymore.

I believe the coop and run are suitable for five hens.

Sounds good but I still have a few questions:
I like to know what you think is right, bc many sellers of coops say a coop is for say 6 chickens and has actually just room for 2 or 3. Can you give measurements and post a few photo’s?

They free range for a couple hours in evening about five days/week. They never go near the compost pile (I'm always outside watching them when they are out of the run). They have a soft cover over the run for shade, plus I point a fan towards the run on the hotter days. They have a sand box. There is no visible sign of external parasites.

Did you use chemicals in your garden? Herbicides or pesticides?

Have you looked for parasites at night too? Shine a torch on them at night to see if you have red bird mites?

Can you post photos of their faces so we can see if your hens are a bit older than you think they are?

There are many different kind of worms, some are not big enough to see with your bare eyes. A healthy chicken can coop with some worms and as long as there is no serious infestation you don’t need to treat them for it. The meds are not completely harmless. If you want to know if there are worms bothering them (internal parasites) you can ask for a float test at a specialised lab. Follow up instructions and send it in. I would never use worm medication if I wasn’t sure they are seriously bothered by worms.
I add a few spoons of diatomaceous earth to the sand in their sandbath and never had a worm problem. Food grade DE is a preventative against several kind of parasites.