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Bryant Redhawk said:
I agree with MeepBeep, Thompson's waterseal is not going to last more than 12 months. I have even applied it with an airless spray painting rig and while that does get it deeper into the wood (solid boards not OSB or Particle board) It simply does not last more than 12 months.

Now, I would recommend this procedure for keeping the elements out of OSB (nothing will actually keep moisture out of Particle board that is exposed to the elements of nature except 3 coats of an elastomeric roofing coating(rubber you can roll on)).

Seal the OSB with a coat of thinned shellac, this will soak in and actually seal the pores of the wood chips that make up the OSB.
Once this is dry apply a coat of primer then when that is dry apply two coats of a good quality latex exterior paint. This will keep the moisture out for 5 years, at which point it is time to apply new finish coats. I have a coop that has an exterior of 7/16 OSB that was painted as I have outlined, it is now two years old and still looks very good and weathers heavy rains quite well. I expect to have to give it a paint job in three more years.

For any treatment of a chicken coop I would give it a full week before putting birds into the fresh coop. This will allow all the solvents to evaporate and that means it will be safe for chooks to peck at, which they will end up doing at least once.

If you are wanting a one shot done coating for OSB used as siding then the Black Jack roofing product or any other elastomeric roofing coating is the way to go. You can get coatings that are pure white, can be tinted for other colors and once rolled on and dried for 24 hours, will last at least 7-10 years. They are rubberized so they shed water completely. They are patchable should something puncture the coating and they are highly reflective so the interior will not heat up as fast as it will with a regular paint product.
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Bryant Redhawk said:
Totally agree with you. That's why I laid out the seal, prime, double coat paint and repaint regimen. You can't skip a step and you have to be diligent in upkeep.

I have discovered a super product that is fast becoming my new favorite for top coats. Sta-Kool 770 cool roof Elastomeric, the stuff is 73 bucks for 5 gal but when properly applied it forms a thick, water proof coating that binds so tight to new wood that you can't peel it off when you want to. It is also tintable and actually reduces roof heat by 20 degrees if you leave it pure white. It can be used on bare wood, metal, or shingles (takes three to four coats for best coverage of shingles). If you do manage to tear it, just touch it up and the seal is good as new. I am expecting it to last on walls for around 7-10 years. On Roofs it lasts 5-7 years before needing a recoating.
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Thanks for the suggestions Redhawk - hope this stuff works on cardboard (not OSB) particle board on the interior coop walls. The coop will be located under a patio roof so rain will not be an issue but our climate/atmosphere will be very humid during summer so needed the best suggestion for protecting the interior walls.
 
hau, Sylvester, Getting "Particle board" or MDF water proofed can be done.

There are a few products that I've found will work for this.
I'll list them in order of how well they work for me on the PB and MDF.

1) Fiberglass epoxy, this works super well, is messy, rather expensive and you have to work fairly fast so the material doesn't harden on you before you get it spread. I use it in small batches which lets me have the most control over when it "kicks". For an interior surface it works great but it takes at least three days for the smells to dissipate. For chicken coops I don't recommend this stuff.

2) Sta-kool 770, I've loved this stuff since I first tried it. Works great and lasts very well, can be put on without any need for primer as long as there isn't any grease or oil present. Works on every surface you would have in a coop.

3) Drylock by UG. While this stuff is for concrete it works when rolled onto particle board or MDF. The gas off period is about 24 hours after it is fully dry. Fairly tough stuff too.

4) Shellac/ primer/ paint, This is what I now consider "old school" but it has always worked, just needs proper maintenance so the top coat remains intact.

So there you go, some different methods to get the job done. If you have any questions just ask.
 
perchie.girl said:
cutie patotie.... Chicken bombs are always welcome.... LOL.  Nice coop...  would love to see inisde.

If I had do overs I would love to have concrete inside the coop area...  or at least the worker bee area ... Me. 

than if things get outa hand just bring in the hose and a nozzel... LOL.  or in my case a bucket and a squeegie. 

deb
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Finally finished the inside
400

I put up nesting box curtains because the younger pulleys not laying yet think they are scratch boxes.
 
heatherlaw said:
Quote: Nice and they will use them with the curtains once they fiigure there is something behind there.

Do yourself a fafor when you get some time switch that round roos bar out for a flat square on like the wide side of a two by four... Chcikens dont grip like birds do and if it gets cold they can hunker down and their feathers will keep their toes warm...

deb
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perchie.girl said:
Nice and they will use them with the curtains once they fiigure there is something behind there.

Do yourself a fafor when you get some time switch that round roos bar out for a flat square on like the wide side of a two by four...  Chcikens dont grip like birds do and if it gets cold they can hunker down and their feathers will keep their toes warm...

deb
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Yeah I plan to. i asked my husband to build a roost so that's what he made. He didn't know they can't grip it. It's ok right now cuz they are small pullets and a couple silkies who won't roost no matter how wide and low I make it :) stubborn little gals.

So far the only girl who's laying seems to like the curtains. She figured them out in less than an hour
 
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clucklady said:
Well you guys asked for a build-along on my armoire coop. Here is the armoire. I picked it up from the resale store yesterday. That's me beside it. It's built from 3/4 " plywood, and it is STURDY. It's about 36" deep, so I'm pretty excited about using it for the purpose I have in mind. We had to rent a pickup truck for the transport because I only have an electric car and that's no good for hauling, obviously. After work today, I'm going to the paint store to see if I can find some "oops" paint for cheap. It seems to have several coats of glossy paint on the front and inside, but the outside and top are just raw plywood. I also got a set of shutters that will be the door to the run for human access. We start the build tomorrow. Everybody cross fingers!
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Did you happen to see these adaptations of an armoire?
1000
 

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