Pre Approval for an Auto Loan?

Couple of comments....you are entitled to a copy of your credit reports (there are THREE of them: Equifax, Experian and TransUnion) once a year. You should be looking at the information there on a regular basis to make sure that no incorrect information has been reported. It is also one of the best ways to help combat identity theft. You can also get a free copy of your report if you have been turned down for credit. Neither of these inquiries will drop your score.

A few years ago, new software was being offered to mortgage lenders and brokers that would help the credit reporting agencies detect when a consumer was shopping for a mortgage so that your FICO score would not be affected by multiple inquiries during a set period of time, but that only applied to mortgage lender inquiries, and those companies using the new software to place their query. It was an expensive transition, and, truthfully, I didn't keep up to see what happened. But, it was sure a step in the right direction.

When companies, on their own, run your credit to see if they want to make "offers" to you, it does not have the same effect on your credit score as when you are out actively pursuing credit at your own request. Plus, your score does not experience significant damage if you have the occasional inquiry. Repeated inquiries during a short period of time is what makes your score take a hit.

IF you know your FICO scores, you can walk into a car dealership and tell them that you know your scores and want to know the deal they will offer for that score and ask upon which credit reporting agency they base their rates. Your scores can vary a great deal between agencies, or they can be close. It's crazy!

One of the best things you can remember about your credit rating is that you will get hit hard if the ratio between available credit and amount of credit utilized is high...most people say above 40%. AND, you take yet another hit if you have used over 40% of the available credit on any ONE account. It can drop your score as much as 100 points.

Even if you are armed with your credit score when you walk in the door of the dealership, be prepared that they will eventually run your credit before giving you any final offer. However, any good F&I guy can tell you the FICO requirements for the special offers out there, like 0%. The banks fax them rate and term sheets every day. PLUS, the car dealers made LOTS of money on financing, since lenders discount their rates to them. If they want, they can negotiate on rate.

There are companies out there who specialize in lower grade loans, but I don't know much about the current B and C markets for either consumer loans or mortgages at this point. Things have drastically changed recently and they are constantly changing.

If you don't have great credit right now, you have to be very careful and watch all of the fine print. I have a feeling that there are some wide swings in what different companies will offer at this time, depending on their own financial stability.

Great time to buy a car, horrible time for financing, I would think.

Mortgage pre-approvals can mean a great deal if you've used a reputable source. But, they are only as good as the information you provide to the lender. A mortgage broker knows EXACTLY what requirements (on any given day) a lender has for a particular loan/rate. Your credit to debt ratios, credit score, LTV (loan to value) ratio, etc. But, the problem is that you just don't always know who is reputable and who is not and in this market, the lender can change his terms several times a day.

Car pre-approvals depend, too, on the reliability of the source.
Good luck!!!
 
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I've never gone shopping for a car without having the loan already in the bag (when a loan was required). This means no pre-approval, it means the loan was finalized with a set amount - so that way we already knew we could go up to such and such and didnt have to worry about the "final" going through as it was already done.

And all have been through the credit union we belong to. We did this with our house as well. I'll never ever go into a place without financing already in place and secured - I dont like playing the games of "well - whats your offer? cant give you a rate/price/deal until we know what you're willing to pay/put down/your credit"

I already know ahead of time what I'm willing to pay for something (homework already done
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) and therefore, what its worth to both the dealership and myself (or if private sale, the owner there). No haggling, its my price or I walk, simple as that.

Good luck!
 
Well I need to find something full time before even looking to get a loan.
Then I plan on opening a checking acct with a local credit union. Saving about 3G. Then talking to them about a auto loan.
I have the car picked out. But it's waiting on my job search becoming successful. PT at min wage wont get me anywhere.
 
This is a very excellent thread because I was looking to apply for a loan for quite some time already. Until I found this post then I become very interested to apply for a loan to open a small business.

Simulation pret immobilier
 
Whatever you do, don't take delivery of the car until the loan is closed. Go shopping during bank hours. There are thousands of people out there that sign the contract for a car, thinking the credit is a done deal. What is actually happening is that the credit should get approved based on the finance officers opinion but it doesn't go through till the lender agrees. You are so in love with the shiny new perfect car that they talk you in to taking it home. Then they call you back a few days later and tell you that they couldn't get you 6.5%. The actual rate will be 10.9% which raises your payment about 200.00 a month. Since you already agreed to a higher payment than you planned on, you are now in a real crummy position. If you are allowed to return the car they charge a daily chg around 100.00 or so plus a mileage charge. If your smart you should buy a low mileage used car with factory warranty on it. Let someone else take the new car hit. A 2 yr old car will cost about 30 to 40% less for most foreign cars, 40 to 50% less for American cars. Oh and don't give the salesman the keys to your trade. They will disappear for a couple hours and they will have you as a hostage. If you buy used, look up the car on NADA.com don't use Kelly Blue Book. Kelly is a dealer sponsored publication that includes the profit the dealer would like to make on the car. That is the book they will pull out to prove what the car is worth. They will pull out the NADA book to prove what your trade in is worth. Knowledge about what you are buying and trading is more important than a pre-approved loan. You should also have the car checked by a reputable mechanic before buying used. Most extended warranties are a rip off too. Big profit maker for the dealer just like the undercoating and the special protectant they spray on the paint. If the car has it already get them to drop the price on it. Their actual cost is about 20 cents on the dollar.

One thing you might want to get is gap coverage. If your car gets totaled it will be paid at actual cash value. Not what is due on the note. So if you paid 38,000 your car will be worth about34,000 a week later. Your note will still be 38,000. The insurance company is liable for what the car is worth. So they will pay your finance company 34,000. You will have to pay the finance company the extra 4,000 shortage. Gap coverage covers that gap.

Good Luck and buyer beware.
 
right now I am actually looking at purchasing a 1st generation Camaro.
And it wont be happening for a bit longer.
 
I got my loan through a credit union. They didn't even varify my income or job. They just used my credit score.
 
Rhett&SarahsMom :

right now I am actually looking at purchasing a 1st generation Camaro.
And it wont be happening for a bit longer.

Cool car. Watch out for rust on the rear frame sub assembly. Very common problem and easily hidden if you don't know to look at it. I wish I could afford a nice one.​
 
Rhett&SarahsMom :

right now I am actually looking at purchasing a 1st generation Camaro.
And it wont be happening for a bit longer.

More often than not, you will have to apply for a personal loan rather than an auto loan for an antique/classic car. These loans require higher credit scores, and are less likely to be approved because the car you are purchasing cannot be used as collateral in most cases.​
 

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