pre-fab coop recommendations

[saysfaa]

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/jens-hens-a-southern-texas-coop.75707/

I know I've seen partial-wall coops too but don't have time to look any more now. I'll try again later.

 

[Percheron chick]

You build a "coop" with hardware cloth walls instead of solid walls. Then add a part of a wall (as in a couple of feet higher and lower than the roost) on the side that storm winds usually come from. Then add a part of a wall at right angles to that back wall. Add a roof, preferably with wide overhangs (like a foot or two). That is all you need to keep the rain off the chickens.

You could do full walls instead of half walls if you leave a wide gap between the top of the wall and the underside of the roof. And/or you could do walls on both sides instead of one side. Both of these options will make the coop less comfortable for the chickens in your climate but still be much more comfortable than a typical coop or shed. It would look more conventional which can be important.

Nests could be done similarly anywhere in the coop. Or you could use one of the solid-wall parts as if it were part of a typical coop.

The "coop" could be the entire run. Or a more carefully secured part of the run. Or a hardware-cloth-screened bump out from the side of your run.

. Thank you for writing it out.

 

[Percheron chick]

Jump on the TX, AL, GA state treads and read through the summer challenges they have with oppressive heat and the things they have to do to keep the chickens comfortable, laying and alive. Keep in mind with the build that heat kills more chickens than cold.
The design of the coop will be more like an aviary with hardware cloth walls to maximize air flow. Build where you take advantage of shade and the coop is never in full sun.
Hoop coops
Check CL. Sheds, greenhouse frames (remove the polycarbonate panels and replace with hardware cloth), an old swing set frame, play structures... Check out the farm section. Cattle panels might show up for $10 or less. Chain link panels make a quick and secure run that can easily be expanded. Pallet coops are practically free and with the open slats solve the trapped heat problem. Think outside the box.

 

[saysfaa]

This is one partial wall example with a picture
https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=coo.31924003138272&view=1up&seq=118

Pages 109 through 118

It is the section on the Staoddard design in Prince T Woods' book

 

[saysfaa]

This one from central Florida has no solid walls. The author explain some of why it is made this way.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-weather-coops.72760/

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC. from the Sandhills of NC.

Recommendations for prefab?

DON'T! for reasons enumerated above.

Would like to stay under $1k. I live in central Alabama so humidity is high during the summer with temps in 80-90s and 40's in the winter dipping occasionally into 30s. Rarely any snow but lots of rain in the spring/summer months and can house up to 10 hens max

We here in the Steamy Southeast do well with Open Air coops -- a roofed wire box with a 3-sided shelter on one end. Heat is our enemy and VENTILATION is our friend.

my plan B is finding a small shed to re-purpose but again - not very handy - which poses an issue haha

Instead of a shed, go for a dog kennel. It will still need hardware cloth to keep rats, snakes, weasels, and grabby raccoon hands out, but it's a better base start, especially for someone with limited DIY capability.

Here is some basic information for you:

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

8 hens

• 32 square feet in the coop. 4'x8' is approaching the limits for a non-walk-in coop even with the access door in the middle. 6'x6' should be walk-in because even the tallest chicken-keeper won't be able to reach the far wall.
• 8 feet of roost
• 80 square feet in the run. 8'x10' is a nice looking number but, remembering the common dimensions of lumber, a roomier 8'x12' is actually easier to build. 6'x14' looks good on paper but would require a lot of weird cuts.
• 8 square feet of ventilation.
• 2-3 nest boxes.

12 hens

• 48 square feet in the coop. 6'x8' is more practical than 4'x12' since a long, skinny coop like that would be difficult to work inside.
• 12 feet of roost
• 120 square feet in the run. 10'x12' or 8'x15' -- 8'x16' means fewer odd cuts than either of those. 6'x20' is possible, especially if your run is an open-topped, fenced area instead of fully-enclosed with a solid and/or wire roof but risks social problems because subordinate hens need to be able to pass the dominant hens at a respectful distance.
• 12 square feet of ventilation.
• 3 nest boxes.

My article on hot climate chicken-keeping: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

My article on coop ventilation: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

Some Open Air coops to inspire you (mine doesn't have a coop page, but it's featured in the hot climate article).

Open Air Coops

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/jens-hens-a-southern-texas-coop.75707/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/my-positive-local-action-coop.72804/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/california-living.68130/

And some hoop coops, which are the easiest build for the inexperienced:

Hoop Coops

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-tractor.69336/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-coop-brooder-with-roll-up-sides.75720/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-biddie-bordello-a-hoop-coop-run-combo.72189/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/permanent-hoop-coop-guide.47818/