Predator Apron on the inside of the run???

[ChicKat]

rather than dig down* , what about putting your apron horizontal and weighting it? Or is this what you meant in the first place. Bypass tree and bush/brush you are unable to remove, the predator couldn't dig thru tree.
* Perhaps I misunderstood, some folks think that a trench is needed to insert the predator protection vertically rather than lay horizontally. My inelegant solution (look at those stylish weights!!) -- makes me sleep better at night. It's 2' HW cloth.
Improving it would use Earth Staples, or tent pegs or similar to prevent sliding away.

Just as a mention - in the UK they made Eglu's -- like a little dog house for a chicken with a welded-wire run attached. These were engineered with a flat flange at the bottom of the arched wire -- It's less than a foot.

It's difficult to see because the wire is coated in green.

For reference, I've had raccoon dig under the chain link, some long time ago -- and terrorize the Isbar flock that was in that pen, and kill a favorite hen. My soil is very sandy and it was a piece of cake for the raccoon.

 

[HenOnAJuneBug]

Put the wire on the inside and cover the outside ground with rocks or pavers to keep critters from digging.

 

[rosemarythyme]

View attachment 1981742 rather than dig down* , what about putting your apron horizontal and weighting it? Or is this what you meant in the first place. Bypass tree and bush/brush you are unable to remove, the predator couldn't dig thru tree.
* Perhaps I misunderstood, some folks think that a trench is needed to insert the predator protection vertically rather than lay horizontally. My inelegant solution (look at those stylish weights!!) -- makes me sleep better at night. It's 2' HW cloth.
Improving it would use Earth Staples, or tent pegs or similar to prevent sliding away.

I would definitely do away with the weights and use lawn staples instead, as the sections further away from weighted ends could still be lifted up as they're not solidly attached to the ground. I zig zag mine a bit so there's staples near the edge, some near the fenceline, and some in between, so it's a good tight fit to the ground. If there's grass the grass will grow back up and hide it.

I would also run the HWC up the wall of the fence a couple of feet to not only keep coons from reaching through the chain link, but to seal up the gap created between apron and fence. If you have rats or mice around, this will help keep them from simply slipping in without any effort.

Hard to see in this photo, but at the very bottom corner you can see where the HWC turns out from the fence in a L shape.

 

[aart]

If you have rats or mice around, this will help keep them from simply slipping in without any effort.

Those suckers will just climb the HC, with very little effort, and slip in above it.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Those suckers will just climb the HC, with very little effort, and slip in above it.

They absolutely can, but we seem to have lazy rats around here. Once we fenced the entire lower part of the run (which coincided with a new coop, so I don't discount the effect of a new coop as well) our rat problem went to zero, even though we still do much of the feeding outside in the run.

 

[ChicKat]

I would definitely do away with the weights and use lawn staples instead,

Thanks! You are so right. Also, a plastic zip tie to the bottom rail of the chain link will keep the HW butted up against the chain link. After posting, I saw the vulnerabilities -- and yeah, the "weights" are a bit tacky -- easily cured with staples. LOL - do you ever do something in an 'emergency situation' and know you will 'fix it' in just a bit, and before you know it 6-months have gone past?
To the OP -- the area in your photo that looks the most problematic is the part of the fencing that goes along the right side of the picture -- with lots of bushes. Is that your area of most concern?

 

[BluebirdHomestead]

Thanks! You are so right. Also, a plastic zip tie to the bottom rail of the chain link will keep the HW butted up against the chain link. After posting, I saw the vulnerabilities -- and yeah, the "weights" are a bit tacky -- easily cured with staples. LOL - do you ever do something in an 'emergency situation' and know you will 'fix it' in just a bit, and before you know it 6-months have gone past?
To the OP -- the area in your photo that looks the most problematic is the part of the fencing that goes along the right side of the picture -- with lots of bushes. Is that your area of most concern?

Yep, exactly. It’s that 62’ stretch along that right side that’ll be a huge challenge to do an apron along. That little back 16’ stretch as well. The other 2 sides would be easy.
And to respond to your question in your previous post, I’m definitely talking about just laying the apron on the ground, not trying to bury it. Here is my predator proof current coop. I just laid it on the ground, tacked it to the coop with those U shaped nails and then used a 2x4 over top of it to really hold it on. The rocks are now gone and I’ve used landscape staples to hold it down.
This new run won’t be framed with wood and stuff. It’ll be more permiable, but I’m hoping I can make it somewhat safe for daytime use. I’m seriously considering going with an electric poultry netting just inside the current fence and rigging up a way to put bird netting over top.

 

[Fairview01]

24" welded wire laid on the ground attached to the bottom of the run held in place with lawn staples. 24" high visual block on the inside of the run. What they can't see wont interest then. A high and low strand of livestock hot wire with stand off connectors attached to run, energized by a pulse fencer. Run wire is grounded to the negative post on fencer.

Think of it as a giant bug zapper sized for predators.

 

[PirateGirl]

I agree with adding a flat apron around the outside and skipping around the parts where there are trees that can't be moved. I don't think an apron on the inside is worth the effort or expense.

Put the wire on the inside and cover the outside ground with rocks or pavers to keep critters from digging.

Most digging critters can either get around rocks or move rocks pretty easily. If you have a dog and have ever seen them dig after a critter you've probably seen this. Once they start digging the ground is loose, rocks and pavers move and are no longer in their "protective" position. I wouldn't count on these as predator protection.

 

[HenOnAJuneBug]

Most digging critters can either get around rocks or move rocks pretty easily. If you have a dog and have ever seen them dig after a critter you've probably seen this. Once they start digging the ground is loose, rocks and pavers move and are no longer in their "protective" position. I wouldn't count on these as predator protection.

Depends on the size of the rocks. There's no way anything but a bear could move the rocks I use. Partially, or fully, bury them in the ground and no animal will get through. Anchored cinder blocks would work