Predator proofing existing building

DoeAndGander

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Hey guys! Originally we were going to build a new coop but have now decided to use this existing building if possible. It was built in the 50’s with little to no maintenance so it will need a lot of help (new roof, siding, windows, pretty much the whole building but we’re trying to save it)! One major issue I’m seeing is the foundation. We’re going to be patching what we can but I’m curious as to how I predator proof where siding and foundation meet? Hardware cloth stapled on the inside? Is this the only way? How high up/down? We have yet to inspect the whole building but I’m almost positive it will need new sheathing throughout.
 
I'm guessing you have some pretty big gaps between the building and the crumbling foundation which appears to be patched at least one or more. First thing to inspect is if there are any voids under the plate (the board that sits on the concrete floor).

JT
 
I'm guessing you have some pretty big gaps between the building and the crumbling foundation which appears to be patched at least one or more. First thing to inspect is if there are any voids under the plate (the board that sits on the concrete floor).

JT

Thanks JT! There more than likely is so I was trying to prepare myself... the question is how much. I’ve done a lot of research which mostly involved new construction coop. As soon as the snow decides to leave, it will be the first project among many this spring. I forgot to add I’m in Minnesota. Not sure if that matters at the moment!
 
D & G,, I am in wisc. and today I think it might make a difference, unless this snow storm missed you..

I am guessing that building does not have treated sill plates. hence, I am guessing the plates are dry rotted.
I don't know what kind of building experience you have, but if it was me:
I would raise the building up a couple of inches all around.. fix the foundation and add treated sill plates.. hopefully the studs are not rotted, too. but you can add sister studs if you have to..
If you are going to put hew siding on. assuming you won't have to replace too much of the sheathing along the bottom.
You shouldn't have to do much more to varmint proof the walls. provided there are no holes larger than 3/4" diameter.

If the rafters are bad, you might have to put sister rafters in also..

......jiminwisc.....
 
D & G,, I am in wisc. and today I think it might make a difference, unless this snow storm missed you..

I am guessing that building does not have treated sill plates. hence, I am guessing the plates are dry rotted.
I don't know what kind of building experience you have, but if it was me:
I would raise the building up a couple of inches all around.. fix the foundation and add treated sill plates.. hopefully the studs are not rotted, too. but you can add sister studs if you have to..
If you are going to put hew siding on. assuming you won't have to replace too much of the sheathing along the bottom.
You shouldn't have to do much more to varmint proof the walls. provided there are no holes larger than 3/4" diameter.

If the rafters are bad, you might have to put sister rafters in also..

......jiminwisc.....

I’m smack dab in the storm! ABout 30 mins south of the twin cities. The other day I was saying we haven’t had a good snow storm in years... and I may have jinxed it for everyone!

More than likely the plates are dry rotted. The building has a pretty bad lean to it but looking back at pics, it has been leaning for at least 40 years and may have been built that way lol it was an old pump house at one point. We bought the property a year ago and every building and the land needs a lot of love. How would I go about lifting the building? It’s about 9.5’x9.5’. My hubby does construction but sometimes I have to hit him with an idea (and a surprise that I know how to fix it!!) in order for him to agree and run with it. Or should I say... give him the option of fixing it or I’ll do it myself
 
well, thanks a lot, for jinxing us.. LOL

to lift it, you would need a hydraulic jack or a good heavy screw jack.
tuck a pole under the top plates and lift each corner a couple of inches. then put blocks under the bottom ..
I didn't know the dimensions of the building.. If you have a lot of rot, which you probably do, I would tear it down and salvage what ever you can. maybe cut the rotten bottoms off of the wall studs and just build the new one a little shorter.
I did that two summers ago with a lean to off of my garage..
I made a mistake when I rebuilt.
I just poured a cement slab. I should have laid two courses of concrete block before I built the walls. Like I did with my main chicken coop. DUH !!
Nothing gets into my chicken coop.
I would be concerned about contamination of your well if you put chickens in the old pump house.. I know lots of people do convert old milk houses into chicken coops.
that concerns me..
I am a retired building contractor.
so I think nothing of tearing down and rebuilding rather than fixing up.
I made my windows removable so I can shovel the poo off the floor and tossing it right into my tractor bucket.
make the walk in door wide enough for a wheel borrow.
hang the nests off of the wall. suspend the roosts from the wall also. mine are removable. there are no legs holding up anything in my coop. that makes cleaning way more easy..
I built the chick brooder above the nest boxes..
.......jiminwiscwatchingthesnowbuildup..
 
If you inspect the inside and find a lot of rotten wood it would be much simpler to just tear it down and start fresh after fixing the foundation.

My Dad built a shed in the back yard when I was a kid and we lived in Alaska. So it's 50+ years old and when we took a trip back up there a couple of years ago we had to look up the old house and I was surprised to see it still there.

JT
 
If you inspect the inside and find a lot of rotten wood it would be much simpler to just tear it down and start fresh after fixing the foundation.
Yes, this^^^
Need to see the inside.
Foundation can probably be patched.
New shingles offers excellent opportunity to add roof overhangs with open eaves!
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One of my many projects to improve the chicken area is to add overhang to the east side of the run to protect the nest box and feeder better from rain and snow. Adding overhangs is often left out, then later you say I wish I had some overhangs here.

JT
 
I agree, overhangs are a great way to increase the longevity of a building.. keeping rain off of the windows will make them last a lifetime.
extending the roof is a cheap way to increase the area of a building without the expense of having to build walls, or foundation. good place to store chicken feed or whatever ..
 

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