Preparing Your Flock & Coop for WINTER

as long as it doesn't go viral. The horizontal nipples are not easily found; I think there's only one distributor here in the U.S. of A, , and he gets them from Europe, maybe Britain. I bought mine from him off ebay, but I think he can be found here on BYC. I have a little night that I plug in to the Thermocube (they have two outlets), and it comes on when when the thing turns on the power to the heater(s); when the outside temp drops to around 0C, the light comes on, and I can verify from a distance that my "heater" has power. That's how I know they work.

I meant please forgive my typos. (A BYC member uses that phrase in either her avatar or signature line, and I find it simply brilliant.). BLESSINGS

I knew you meant typos, but I've no problem with typos (sometimes they are actually quite hilarious). I think your phrase just caught me off guard. I laughed literally out loud when I read it!

Good idea re the light, I'm going to have to do some considering as to what I will set up, with all these new ideas!
 
I live in Arkansas and need wind protection. My ladies free range but need a sunny place to hang out in the cold. My coop faces south so they get passive solar pick up in coop area. I put up clear shower curtains that are attached to the wire front of the coop. It allows sun in but blocks the wind. They are the perfect length and clearer than the plastic I could find. The other 3 sides of the coop are enclosed with ventilation up top. I have done this for 4 years and it has worked well even with our last 2 horrible winters. No extra heat needed. The ladies do have a covered dirt area outside the coop plus the yard. I do add light to keep it around 10 hours of daylight so I still get some eggs.
 
Oh, ok!  There's another thought.  I'm in Alberta, but it's pretty much like Manitoba, temperature-wise.  That would actually work pretty well, as the coop/cage is mesh sides and top (and I close off one side in the winter with a wood top and plastic curtain over the mesh to give them draft protection).  With an outside mount, heat tape wouldn't be at risk of being pecked and otherwise asundered, which is why I didn't go that route last winter.  When you say "fiddle with" what would I have to do with the nipples so that they would work at temps that are typically -15C to -20C but regularly -30C to -40C?  I had assumed they wouldn't work in such cold, but if they will, I would like to get some now so they get a chance to use them before winter hits.  I feel like if they use them, that would also help keep them working..?

What I have works well enough to winter the same way as I did, but improving it would include having water available more consistently.  I really don't have room in the winter for a cinderblock or any of the heated dishes I have ever seen, but an outside mount would work well, if, as you say, the nipples will work in the cold.  Do you have a brand you would suggest?

If I go with using the lower part and the shed (And maybe the run, if they're interested on the warmer days), I would have more space, but also somewhat more heating challenges - but those would be easier to work around than the water issue.  If they weren't so tiny, I feel like I would have less concern about heating, but they did do very well last winter, so I'm starting to treat them rather more like the standard size birds I grew up with instead of fretting that they are substantially different.

Thanks!  I'll take a few measurements tomorrow and start plotting for a system upgrade, featuring nipples and heat tape.  I bet it won't be as much fun as it sounds out of context.....:lol:  
in answer to your first questions: by fiddle, I mean you might have to manually jiggle the little spring loaded metal pins in the nipples. I had to do this sometimes last year, but on most occasions, the pins had frozen shut when the light bulb had burned out, or when the power had failed, or when the plug had become disengaged. These were totally exposed 5 gallon buckets heated only with 75 watt bulbs in cinder blocks. When everything was working right, they kept water available on even the coldest of days. A bucket could freeze solid, however, or could just be starting to freeze, when Murphy prevailed. With this sort of heating arrangement, you can lift the bucket off the cinder block to take it to a fill station when empty. (I used nearby heated 65 gal. Rain barrels fitted with spigots.). I did feel the need to check the nipples everyday to make sure they weren't frozen, and because I did this, I know that they are about as good as you can get in your kind of temps. I imagine that you would have very good luck with them with your less exposed coop location, especially if you heat it some. (But liter bottles are of course much smaller, and freeze faster, too. These nipple drinkers are screwed into a 3/8" hole you drill 1.5 - 2" from the bottom (higher with a submersible heater). The container is set on a block (a cinder block, in my case) or stand that brings the nipple up to about chest height of your birds. You can easily fill and clean your water vessel, just remember to use an easily removed lid. (Can give you ideas for this). If you decide to try one of these on the outside, with the nipple poking through (a thin) wall or mesh to the inside, you might want to look at some flat backed buckets (I think there may be small ones) that you can push right up flat to your coop, wherever you decide to mount it. There is another way to heat your water vessel simply and reliably. These are flat submersible pail heaters. I've used both Precision Allied and Farm Innovators Brands and found them reliable. They are thermostatically controlled, and I use them with Thermocubes anyways. If you use these sorts of heaters, you will need to unplug them in order to take the buckets to a filling station. This all supposes you are using a bucket of some sort, though, because these heaters won't fit in a liter bottle. So yes, you could fit a nipple into a liter bottle and wrap it with heat tape. The tape will measure the water temperature,yes? And how will it do with plastic, metalNOT?

OK, the horizontal nipples: I think you can find them here on BYC on things for sale. I think the fellow's name is Rich. You can get them on eBay just by putting them in your cart and paying with a card through PayPal. You will need a 3/8 (10mm?) good drill bit, maybe a brad point. I use a high speed drill bit - and I drill a pilot hole first, so it doesn't skate all over - and I find I get the cleanest holes with it. If you have trouble check with your hardware person. Practice --------a little. The nipples can be used over and over again, but you will want to find out the limits of your materials. You can find directions and testimonials for these on line. Chickens learn right away what to do with them. If you cap your bottles, and the water is reluctant to exit the drinkers, you should drill a quarter inch hole in the cap. Find out how small a container you can use. There MAY have to be a certain amount of some kind of pressure for them to work. I think you will like these once you start using them and can see first hand their potential.

OK Alberta. Good luck with everything. I'll be thinking of you and your project as I move forward on my own. Remember: if I had a forte', it wouldn't be geography. Best regards
 
Please Help!

This is my first time raising chickens, and it will be the girls' first winter. I heard that the prediction for this winter is saying that we are in for some extreme cold and snowy weather.
barnie.gif
I was wondering if I will need to provide an additional heat source for them, and how cold does the temp need to be for me to have to do that. It's only late summer, but it is never too early to prepare!
 
Please Help!

This is my first time raising chickens, and it will be the girls' first winter. I heard that the prediction for this winter is saying that we are in for some extreme cold and snowy weather.
barnie.gif
I was wondering if I will need to provide an additional heat source for them, and how cold does the temp need to be for me to have to do that. It's only late summer, but it is never too early to prepare!

a few initial questions to fine tune suggestions: How cold does it get (in degrees either F or C) in a regular winter and in a cold snap where you live? Is it dry or humid? what kind of hens do you have and what's their general housing situation? How many do you have?
 
CanaDawn,

The temps usually are around the teens-20's at night and in the 30's to 40's & sometimes 50's (all Fahrenheit) during the day. In a cold snap the temps can get all the way into the teens in the daytime and single digits at night. With the wind chill it can feel like sub-zero temperatures! We also get a mix of humid and dry, with plenty of snow, we received almost 16 inches last year, predicted to get record snows this year! I have 2 BSL 1 White Leghorn, and 1 NH Red <---- That is my coop. The roof is shingled and insulated with foam for the heat of the summer sun. The rest is non-insulated. The whole inside floor is covered with large flake pine shavings, including the boxes. There is 6 boxes and a roost at the ceiling. It isn't shown, but there is a door on the chicken entrance. All hens have just started laying, and the coop faces north, if that is important...
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Here's my input, for what it's worth. Take what works, ignore the rest!

With that great coop and those temperatures, I wouldn't personally worry much about supplemental heat in your regular weather, and would probably not bother even in a cold snap if they are not showing signs of being cold (staying perched, fluffed up, and not active). Windchill won't matter if they are inside, and if they have free access they will likely look after themselves re getting out of the cold when they need to. I might personally consider enclosing or insulating the floor, since it looks like the coop is raised, but the litter inside may be enough.

If it only gets down to the teens overnight, they will be tucked up in their coop and will heat it via body heat fairly dramatically. I'm not the most experienced with modern backyard flock practices, but in the past, we overwintered many birds in places where the usual daytime highs were 0F or less without adding heat. We did have some roos (especially those with long thin comb points) lose some comb points, but we're talking daytime highs of -20 to -40F in those situations. Even my tiny birds are ok into the teens with very minimal extra heat, so I am sure your much larger, warmer hens will be fine.

You didn't show what the roosts are made of, but they need to be wide enough that the birds can perch down onto their feet to keep them warm...this point is well discussed in the thread as well.

If you can, go back and read your way thru this thread, as there is tons of information, and much discussion of the merits of heating vs not heating,and various winterising options for runs (like using plastic to cover all or part of it for solar heat retention or wind protection. You'll have to consider snow loading if you make it so that the snow can't fall thru the top of the run.

I'm sure you'll get loads of good advice, and then you can pick thru and decide what will work for your situation and set up. You can also change your mind re extra heat if it seems they aren't coping with the cold, and by next year you'll have a really good idea of what was required. Good luck!
 
Ok thank you so much for the information! The roosts are made of 2 x 2 wood, and from what I have seen from observing them on their outside perch, they can sit on their feet.

I do have one more question though! What can I do to keep their water from freezing? Should I put it inside?
 
Ok thank you so much for the information! The roosts are made of 2 x 2 wood, and from what I have seen from observing them on their outside perch, they can sit on their feet.

I do have one more question though! What can I do to keep their water from freezing? Should I put it inside?
I'd go up to the top of the page here, where it says "search discussions" and have a look at what comes up if you search soemthing like "freezing water". There's tons of options, from commercial heated waterers, to setups with lightbulbs, etc. Depends how much space you have, and what you have for power at the coop, and so on.
 
Just had another thought re winter water: Does anyone add anything to the water to help it stay liquid at lower temps? I was thinking about how salt and sugar (any solute actually) will lower the freezing point of a water solution, but I won't want to put salt in their drinking water. I was thinking about other options, but unsure what is available or advisable.
 

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