Preventative Dose Of Corid For Baby Chicks?

[O.C.Chick]

Lemurchaser, I hadn't seen your post when I submitted my last post. What you're saying makes sense.

FYI, my chicks are not on ground, but they are with their mom who presumably has/had coccidia. She was one of my only chickens that never showed symptoms and was never affected by it, but I have to assume that she carries it, and that the babies have been exposed to her poop by now. I've been changing bedding several times a day and trying to keep things poop-free, but you know how messy chickens are!

 

[lemurchaser]

Here's some info on it:

http://www.corid.com/pdf/me_solution-60170.pdf

The preventive dose is lower, I would go with their 21 day 1/2tsp per gallon dose for chicks.

 

[O.C.Chick]

Thank You So Much!!! That's Exactly The Info I Was Looking For!

Have A Great Night!

 

[lemurchaser]

Okay, so now I'm fixated on this. All poultry sites and the feed companies give amprolium at 0.0125% (or 12.5 parts per million). Doing the math, to make water at this concentration you would put 5mL of drug in 3.84Liters (or 1.01 gallons) of water. And they recommend this dose for 6-8 weeks. I guess this is what I'd do, since it is just matching the feed amounts... now that being said, I wonder if chicks drink more or eat more and then the drug levels wouldn't be right...

So final answer: I would go with 5mL (or 5cc) in 1 gallon of water
reasons: It matches a known effective chick dosage for preventing coccidia, instead of going off a cow dose, which can be very different than chicken doses. Reading the label, it has a very wide safety margin, so even if they get too much, they'll be fine. But with this drug too much is better than not enough (because you know you have a bad strain that they are exposed to, so you don't want them to have too low a dose that they'll get sick anyway).

 

[O.C.Chick]

LEMURCHASER: Thanks SO much for all of your research (and your math skills, which are clearly better than mine!!!)

This is great information! I'm also so glad that Kathyinmo's post made me realize that I had miscalculated when I originally bought the Corid (almost a year ago), and that I had been under-dosing for treatment ever since. This may explain why one of my weakest birds could never quite recover. The cocci probably built a resistance since I was giving a weaker dose for only 5 to 7 days. So I'm very grateful for all of the information, and hopefully these new babies will remain strong and healthy with the right precautions!

 

[speckledhen]

Just one more thing, if these guys are isolated inside, then the risk of coccidia is low. You really want to treat for a couple weeks past the time they hit the dirt outside. And honestly if you are going to treat, I'd get a few days worth of drugs into them, and then sprinkle some dirt in the brooder to start exposing them slowly.

I agree. They usually become immune to whatever oocycsts are in the soil by 10-12 weeks old, but 4-8 weeks is the worst time.

One interesting tidbit: broody-raised chicks don't usually have cocci issues. They are on the ground sooner and build immunity slowly, plus they are "inoculated" by eating bits of mom's poop as well.​

 

[O.C.Chick]

SpeckeledHen, I had read that too, regarding moms providing chicks with some immunity. I hope that's the case, but still want to be proactive just in case!

 

[O.C.Chick]

One more question: The babies will be one week old tomorrow. I have been giving them GQF vitamins with pro-biotics in their water, which is recommended for the first seven days, and then once a week thereafter...Should I start the Corid tomorrow at 7 days, or should I wait until day 10?

 

[Silk Madness]

Jeesh, reading through all this was a job to get to the bottom of it. So a teaspoon is okay and I'm not going to kill my babies I have one Mille Fleur d'Uccle chick with a big piece of poop attached to its butt, just finished removing it with warm water. I don't know if that means pasty butt. But I don't want to take any chances. I have 3 Seramas (one a pretty blue color), a Barred Plymouth Rock, and a Rhode Island Red that all hatched together, all different sizes, besides the Mlle Fleur. Then there's a pair of Serama 10 day olds and a 15 day old Olandsk Dwarf in the same room but different brooders. I lost a Japanese Bantam today that I didn't think would make it this far. It was born covered with goo and pooping green stuff-none of its clutch mates made it out of the egg and I suspect there was some kind of bacteria problem with the source of the eggs, the Seramas hatched clean in the same incubator. This is worrisome but what can I do? I think next time I will not mix eggs from different sellers in the same incubator, just in case. The Mille Fleur hatched in a different incubator, but it's mates the RIR and BPR, seem healthy.