production down, numbers don't add up

[aart]

Worm them, clean the coop, remove the chickens, spray the coop for mites, dust the chickens.

Looking for external parasites(should be done regularly anyway),
and having a fecal done to check for internal parasites is not a bad idea...
...but test before treating.

 

[Spartan22]

Certainly following for studies, I got 30 layers, 1/3 are 11 month olds, the rest are 2, 3, 4 yrs old respectively with a roo on the youngest hens coop. I’d been getting 23-28 eggs/day the last 2 wks from getting less than 10 daily previously. I got the birds mentioned without the sex links and the buffs.

 

[GC-Raptor]

What I don't understand is why they no longer use the nest boxes. If anything, I would think that these spaces would be perfect for a bird looking to stay away from the others and lay in peace.

Do you clean the nest boxes and replace the straw regularly? They won't use them if infested with mites/lice.
I clean and replace straw in nests every 2 weeks. Immediately if soiled with poop or a broken egg.
Once you figure out why they don't use the nests, I would put some ceramic eggs or golf balls in the nests. The production should go up if they start using them. GC

 

[getaclue]

aart, the only reason I don't always test, is that I live in a region in Florida that we get no real cold to kill any parasites. In the beginning, when I first started raising chickens, I did have fecals before worming, and was always correct about when they needed it done. Now, with some experience, I can usually tell. I do make sure they are showing signs of needing it, before worming. There is no set regimen. I understand that not everyone lives in the climate I do, soil conditions are different, etc. Yes, it's a good thing to have a fecal test done before worming.

 

[aart]

aart, the only reason I don't always test, is that I live in a region in Florida that we get no real cold to kill any parasites.

I understand that it's a whole different ballgame in the south,
especially for someone with your length of experience,
but wanted the OP, who lives in Maine and is fairly new to chickens, to know that testing is a good option.

 

[gadus]

Thanks to all for your answers. I will check the birds for mites and treat them, if mites are found. (Do folks use magnifying glass or are the mites obvious to the naked eye?)...Then, fumigate the coop, put in new bedding and try again.

I'm planning to add floor space soon but maybe I'll cull a few BOs in the interim, as they're prone to broodiness anyway; this is not the callous decision it may sound like, as I've been planning on dispatching them but just haven't got around to it.

 

[aart]

(Do folks use magnifying glass or are the mites obvious to the naked eye?)

Depends on your eyesight......a good bright light will help.

Bugs check
Best done well after dark with a strong flashlight/headlight, easier to 'catch' bird and also to check for the mites that live in structure and only come out at night to feed off roosting birds.

Google images of lice/mites and their eggs before the inspection so you'll know what you're looking for.

Wipe a white paper towel along the underside of roost to look for red smears(smashed well fed mites).

Part the feathers right down to the skin around vent, head/neck and under wings.

If you do find some...check out this thread:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1134783/permethrin-spray

 

[getaclue]

thanks aart, I just didn't want anyone getting the wrong impression. I am all for fecals, and testing before giving chemicals to any bird. Many types of mites can been seen, but there are a couple that can not. When the feathers look dull, ratty, irregular, that usually means it's time to dust.

Oh, I have a plastic container that I fill with cooking oil, then once a month I dip their feet, and legs into. Let the oil seep in good. That prevents scaly leg mites. IF I see any leg scales lifted, indicating scaly leg, I dip feet, and legs every day for a week. The reason I don't treat for a couple weeks like some mention, is I usually catch, and treat quickly, before it gets serious. You can reuse the oil for treatment when you do it everyday for a week. It's ok if it gets dirty. After the treatment, dump the oil. Cooking oil is cheap enough, and penetrates well.

 

[bobbi-j]

Thanks to all for your answers. I will check the birds for mites and treat them, if mites are found. (Do folks use magnifying glass or are the mites obvious to the naked eye?)...Then, fumigate the coop, put in new bedding and try again.

I'm planning to add floor space soon but maybe I'll cull a few BOs in the interim, as they're prone to broodiness anyway; this is not the callous decision it may sound like, as I've been planning on dispatching them but just haven't got around to it.

That's just plain old flock management. Nothing callous about that. Too many birds? You cull some for the good of the flock. Birds don't fit your flock goals? Cull them and either leave things be, or get birds that do meet your goals. We all have different ways of flock management. Culling (which does not mean to "kill", but simply to remove from the flock) is one of them. Better that than to have crowded, unhappy chickens.

 

[gadus]

I'm not seeing mites. I let them free-range yesterday-and I think their favorite part of free-ranging is the dust bath found under our steps. I also put fresh hay in the boxes, with a "clutch" of wooden eggs in one of them and was rewarded with a couple extra eggs on the day. I'm betting the numbers will improve as I continue to make more space for them outside. Otherwise, culling and adding space will have to go on the immediate "to do" list.