production down, numbers don't add up

[gadus]

I bought 6 Australorps last summer to add to an existing flock of 16, bringing the totals to the following:
3 Black Star
2 Red Star
6 Americauna
5 Buff Orpingtons
7 Australorps
--------------
22 total

The Australorps started laying in late November while all the others are about 1.5 years into their egg-laying careers. Without them, I had gotten daily egg totals in the first year of the others' laying in the low to mid teens.

Many molted over the winter but only one BO is in molt currently.

Last week I had as many as 12/day, my highest in a long while and the average until this week was around 10/day. This week the average has dropped to around 8/day and today it was 7; 7 eggs for 22 birds.

They have not used the egg boxes (5) in quite some time, preferring to lay behind the plastic sheet which is stapled to the stud cavity but is loose and flapping enough to nest behind. There are typically two clutches of eggs in the course of the day, one having most of the eggs, the other 2-3.

I discontinued artificial light several months ago when the light stopped working.

I am feeding them game bird feed, 18% but will be switching back to 16% next go-around.

I'm wondering if the coop is too small (8X8) and they are feeling too stressed to lay normally? When I go in to the coop several times a day, there are typically 5-6 birds in there jockeying for a spot like airplanes in a holding pattern.

Thoughts? Shouldn't I be getting more eggs even with the majority of the birds entering their second year of laying?

 

[aart]

Worm them, clean the coop, remove the chickens, spray the coop for mites, dust the chickens.

Looking for external parasites(should be done regularly anyway),
and having a fecal done to check for internal parasites is not a bad idea...
...but test before treating.

 

[gadus]

I'm not seeing mites. I let them free-range yesterday-and I think their favorite part of free-ranging is the dust bath found under our steps. I also put fresh hay in the boxes, with a "clutch" of wooden eggs in one of them and was rewarded with a couple extra eggs on the day. I'm betting the numbers will improve as I continue to make more space for them outside. Otherwise, culling and adding space will have to go on the immediate "to do" list.

 

[getaclue]

thanks aart, I just didn't want anyone getting the wrong impression. I am all for fecals, and testing before giving chemicals to any bird. Many types of mites can been seen, but there are a couple that can not. When the feathers look dull, ratty, irregular, that usually means it's time to dust.

Oh, I have a plastic container that I fill with cooking oil, then once a month I dip their feet, and legs into. Let the oil seep in good. That prevents scaly leg mites. IF I see any leg scales lifted, indicating scaly leg, I dip feet, and legs every day for a week. The reason I don't treat for a couple weeks like some mention, is I usually catch, and treat quickly, before it gets serious. You can reuse the oil for treatment when you do it everyday for a week. It's ok if it gets dirty. After the treatment, dump the oil. Cooking oil is cheap enough, and penetrates well.

 

[bobbi-j]

You have 22 chickens in an 8x8 coop? Do they have a run or free range? That is definitely tight quarters for that many birds. It's possible you have egg eaters. They could be too stressed to lay. It could be that some just haven't started back up yet. Check for lice and mites. Are all their combs and wattles nice and bright red? Those are the ones that would be laying. If the combs and wattles are shriveled and pale, they're not laying. If they free range, they could be laying anywhere outside the coop. If you them in a run, how big is it?

 

[getaclue]

aart, the only reason I don't always test, is that I live in a region in Florida that we get no real cold to kill any parasites. In the beginning, when I first started raising chickens, I did have fecals before worming, and was always correct about when they needed it done. Now, with some experience, I can usually tell. I do make sure they are showing signs of needing it, before worming. There is no set regimen. I understand that not everyone lives in the climate I do, soil conditions are different, etc. Yes, it's a good thing to have a fecal test done before worming.

 

[aart]

aart, the only reason I don't always test, is that I live in a region in Florida that we get no real cold to kill any parasites.

I understand that it's a whole different ballgame in the south,
especially for someone with your length of experience,
but wanted the OP, who lives in Maine and is fairly new to chickens, to know that testing is a good option.

 

[Mosey2003]

I use liquid concentrate permethrin meant for livestock, not sure the dilution on it. That can be sprayed on birds and premises, yes. Or you can even put it in a bucket and dip them. Not knowing what's in your clothing product, I really can't say.

 

[aart]

Some improvement though I think I also still have a mite problem; though I haven't seen any on their bodies, several of the buff orpingtons are showing signs of feather damage.

I wanted to ask folks about some permethrin I bought to use on our clothes for tick protection; can the liquid permethrin be sprayed on for similar protection as the dust? If so, what should be the dilution?

Can it also then be used effectively in the coop, in similar fashion?

I would not assume feather loss is from mites...especially with using lighting and tight coop space. Fully assess feather loos/damage first.

 

[Kiki]

I want to thank-again-all for input.

I am building a killing cone and will be culling soon. I plan on a major coop cleaning day on the next warm and breezy afternoon and I may sprinkle some DE everywhere at that time. Expanding the coop when time permits but definitely before adding birds later in the spring.

Don't waste your money.
It will not do much of anything but just that...waste your money.


Glad to hear you were able to spend some time observing.
Good luck with the cone.