and ours.... and funny cause that scares people the most..... in the end we fretted over the turner!! LOLWell if you ever want to attempt something like this, the wiring has been pretty cake on the whole project so far
Project: Code-name Ultra-Bator
- Thread starter MarineCorpFarmr
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
LOL i mean its only 120v. The worst thats really gunna happen is a nasty little shock right lol
120v is just a tickle compared to 220v used in the rest of the world - thank god i am not into tickles
- Thread starter
- #24
agreed. 120 tickles 220 bites 440 will straight up throw you 30 feet(seen it, nope im not screwin with 440 EVER)
I have too at work, sorry but it made me laugh so hard I almost peed my pants, the dumb*** knew that would happen and still didn't pay attention.....he even did it a second time
69KV really bites! Like BIG TIME bites! Yep. Hammered by an indirect. No throwing...just complete paralysis till it was over. I will never forget that. Love the bator BTW!
- Thread starter
- #27
Holy hell your talking transmission line voltage, yeah no I aint gunna mess with that lmao. Heck my fence charger holds steady at 18kv. Low current but it'll knock the snot outta you. Last full hit I got from it I grabbed a live 16 foot gate... pretty sure i saw my own corneas or something lmao. Thanks! I need to take more pics of the upgrades I made, but ill have to tear it down to get the pics. I had eggs 1/2 incubated laying out while I did the upgrade work. I love everything but the temporary turning system. the weight on such small wire rope over the 2 pulleys makes it a bit harder then it should be to turn the eggs. Its just a pain.
Edit: I may add a linear actuator to turn the racks... May work out really well too because I could not only use it to turn the current rigged up racks, but i could use it to turn the finished racks as well. Only thing that makes me a bit nervous is the speed most of them run at and how suddenly they stop. I need to do some more searching see if i can find slower speeds and soft start/stop.. hmmmm idears idears
Edit: I may add a linear actuator to turn the racks... May work out really well too because I could not only use it to turn the current rigged up racks, but i could use it to turn the finished racks as well. Only thing that makes me a bit nervous is the speed most of them run at and how suddenly they stop. I need to do some more searching see if i can find slower speeds and soft start/stop.. hmmmm idears idears
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I would like more info on that turner. What supports it? Pics seem to show only half of what you have done. I would like to try this but would need better pics inside and out maybe and more detail.
For the actual turning put a small gear reduction motor with a fulcrum on it that hits a limit switch at the top and bottom. I took some pics of an auto chicken door I built. It would be the same concept. I don't generally take pics but this just might be a special occasion.
Each limit switch has its own timer that is set to come on and run for 10 minutes then go off killing power to that side the next time the other timer comes on it runs for 10 minutes the opposite direction . To close the arm fulcrum as I call it comes down and touches the bottom limit switch that kills power to the motor about 30 seconds top to bottom 9 and a half minutes later the timer shuts off power to that limit switch. When it opens back up the other time comes on the fulcrum goes up the opposite direction (DC 12 volt motor power is reversed) touches the limit switch that kills the power to the motor 9 and a half minutes later the timer kills power to the limit switch.
Hope that makes sense. Got the motors and 12 volt timers off of ebay. The motor turns really slow barely see the shaft turn. The fulcrum arm I welded a lock collar to the back so I could tighten it to the shaft of the motor.
In your case you could use 120 volt timers and plug 12 volt power adapters to them. My door runs off of 12 volt batteries don't need it failing because the electric went out.
I would like to know how you attached the rack so it is sturdy and does not wobble around.
For the actual turning put a small gear reduction motor with a fulcrum on it that hits a limit switch at the top and bottom. I took some pics of an auto chicken door I built. It would be the same concept. I don't generally take pics but this just might be a special occasion.
Each limit switch has its own timer that is set to come on and run for 10 minutes then go off killing power to that side the next time the other timer comes on it runs for 10 minutes the opposite direction . To close the arm fulcrum as I call it comes down and touches the bottom limit switch that kills power to the motor about 30 seconds top to bottom 9 and a half minutes later the timer shuts off power to that limit switch. When it opens back up the other time comes on the fulcrum goes up the opposite direction (DC 12 volt motor power is reversed) touches the limit switch that kills the power to the motor 9 and a half minutes later the timer kills power to the limit switch.
Hope that makes sense. Got the motors and 12 volt timers off of ebay. The motor turns really slow barely see the shaft turn. The fulcrum arm I welded a lock collar to the back so I could tighten it to the shaft of the motor.
In your case you could use 120 volt timers and plug 12 volt power adapters to them. My door runs off of 12 volt batteries don't need it failing because the electric went out.
I would like to know how you attached the rack so it is sturdy and does not wobble around.
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- Thread starter
- #29
Good ideas man. Been so busy prepping for the move i havent really had time to mess with it at all. I do think an actuator + the shelves I'm going to build + a few limit switches might just be the easiest route to go. Thanks man
I'll try to get some better pics of the turner as it sits now. Its a pivot system right now. One side is sitting on the shelf brackets, the other is connected to the wire rope that runs over the pulley, out the back over another pulley and then down to screws to secure it in position. Was never intended to be a long term solution and it really is a p.i.t.a. but it works.
I'll try to get some better pics of the turner as it sits now. Its a pivot system right now. One side is sitting on the shelf brackets, the other is connected to the wire rope that runs over the pulley, out the back over another pulley and then down to screws to secure it in position. Was never intended to be a long term solution and it really is a p.i.t.a. but it works.
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An actuator moves really fast doesn't it? Click up Click down.That would be really jerky for the eggs I would think. If you get the actuator figured out to where it does not jerk the eggs with the turn let us know. I know about no time I will be glad when I get time to build mine.Good ideas man. Been so busy prepping for the move i havent really had time to mess with it at all. I do think an actuator + the shelves I'm going to build + a few limit switches might just be the easiest route to go. Thanks man
I'll try to get some better pics of the turner as it sits now. Its a pivot system right now. One side is sitting on the shelf brackets, the other is connected to the wire rope that runs over the pulley, out the back over another pulley and then down to screws to secure it in position. Was never intended to be a long term solution and it really is a p.i.t.a. but it works.
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