Protecting my planned tractor/ark

[Sinfonian]

Hey all, let me say I first tried to search out my answers before starting a post, but I couldn't frame them simply enough to get a good search result, so here I go.

I am building a simple A-frame tractor/ark for 3 or 4 layers this spring. The goal is to move it around easily, even lift it over a fence, so I'm going to build it out of 2x2s, likely hemlock/fir if I can find it, with 1/3 covered with light plywood to give protection from the rain (yes, it does rain a bunch here in Seattle). I also plan on building a nesting box in the top corner in case their laying schedule is not morning based only. Of course I'll use tons of brackets and bracings to keep it as sturdy as possible and wrap it in hardware wire. A tarp could be draped over it in the rainy season.

My question is what would you paint/stain the wood with, paricularly the ground touching frame, such that it won't rot? I understand they don't typically peck at wood that isn't rotting or splintered, but I don't want something toxic.

Thanks!

 

[elmo]

Pressure treated wood is fine to use, or you can use cedar (it's lighter, anyway). You can go ahead and use plain ole regular deck stain on the wood. Chickens won't peck at it, especially when they have nice fresh grass and juicy bugs to peck at.

Is this going to be a day tractor, or 24 hour a day housing? You do need to give some thought to predator issues since tractors by their mobile nature tend to be less secure than permanent housing.

I have a couple of day tractors, and we don't have much in the way of predators to worry about in the daytime other than hawks and neighborhood cats. Still, both of my tractors have wire aprons attached to the baseboards and extending outwards about 12 inches or so. I weight down the corners with bricks. This ensures that no hen wiggles under the edge if there's an unlevel part of the yard (I have tiny bantams) or even worse, nothing wiggles in. It deters dig in predators, too, but since our yard has a 6 foot tall solid board fence, we don't really have to worry about dogs much. Raccoons sometimes come out in daylight hours, and I dont' count on the tractors being raccoon proof, so we only use them when we're at home. I hope that if a raccoon came by during daylight, the ruckus would alert me to come to the rescue.


Ooops, forgot to mention: I don't think it's a great idea to use plywood for rain protection. It's too heavy and as you note it will rot eventually. You can use a rain tarp, or you can use those plastic or polycarbonate corrugated panels. Much lighter, and does the job of keeping rain off and providing shade.

Check out my page if you like for three different tractor models I've used.

 

[Sinfonian]

Thanks Elmo. I should have mentioned this is a day tractor, not the coop. As far as predators, I've never seen anything predator like in the day, but the wire should keep anything out. I'll consider a skirt though to be safe.

As far as your tractors are concerned, mine is most like the third one. I figure light plywood would hold up if it were painted with whatever I find to paint the roof of my coop (weather resistant). I'll check out the polycarbonate corrugated panels, if they have them at Lowes/HD. Since I only need one sheet, I'm not too concerned about cost, I guess. I do want part of it to be protected from rain 365, but I will employ a tarp for the rainy season, that's for sure. I intend for them to use this every day it's not snowing, which is about 362 days a year. On the rare day we get snow, they'll probably stay in the coop or mini-run and sweat it out.

So, paint or stain is fine. I don't think I can get pressure treated 2x2s, and I want to keep this very light. I'll remember the plywood weight issue though. Half a sheet isn't that heavy if it's 1/4" but you make a good point.

Hmm, I wonder if I could find pressure treated 2x3s... doubt it. Hehe. Thanks Elmo!

 

[elmo]

Quote:
Check at your Home Depot. The one nearest my house has the most beatiful, smooth, pressure treated 2" by 2" by 8's, with the edges already rounded down. I ended up using them for all of my runs, even though I didn't really need the pressure treated wood for the upper structure. You do have to go through the pile to pick out the ones that are straight and not warped or cupped. And do be sure to measure the length...they're not all exactly 8', which is why my run is slightly out of square (gah).

Home Depot also sells 2" by 3" by 12' cedar boards, which is what I used on my hoop tractor. I needed that length, and didn't want to splice for structural integrity. If you don't see what you want at your store, just ask. The company sells this product, so they ought to be able to get it for you at your local store.

My 12' x 6' hoop tractor is light enough for an old lady like me (52) to easily lift up one end and drag around our yard. I wouldn't be able to lift it up over a fence, though, unless someone else was on the other end.

For rain protection, do check out the plastic panels. You wouldn't really need to spend the extra money for polycarbonate, I wouldn't think. The plastic panels ought to be able to bend over the top of your hoop (depending on the radius), which is something plywood could never do.

For a nestbox, think about using a simple lidded plastic storage bin with a hole cut in one end, or even a covered kitty litter box (just don't tell the chickens what it's original intended use was). I love plastic nestboxes because they are so easy to keep clean and mite free. In the summer I dump the bedding out weekly, hose 'em off, let them dry in the sun, then put down a layer of poultry dust and then fresh bedding. I just move the nestbox when I move the tractor. I decided it was less trouble to do this than to figure out how to attach a permanent nestbox inside the tractor, cut an opening to get the eggs out, etc.

And, yes, you do have to allow for the probability that chickens will want to lay while they're in the tractor. The egglaying cycle is around 25-26 hours, so it isn't at the same time every day.

 

[WoodlandWoman]

We used 2x2s on most of our tractor, too, to keep it lighter. My husband drilled pilot holes for the wood screws, to make sure they didn't split. Wood screws make a nice sturdy joint, so it doesn't flex as much when moving or get pulled apart by a dog or large raccoon. It also keeps animals from pulling hardware cloth, like they can with nails or little staples. We also added one of the polycarbonate roof panels. It worked out well for us.

 

[1K18]

I would use stain, like Thompson's. If you use paint, the paint will eventually get cracks, which will hold the water against the wood. With a sealant, the sealant soaks into the wood so you don't have that problem.

Let us know how it turns out.

 

[Sinfonian]

Thanks folks! I was at Lowes for another reason today and swung by the paint department on my way out. Seems for a plywood sealant for the roof of my coop, they just recommend exterior paint and primer. Heck, I've got plenty of that from when I painted my house this fall. Unfortunately it's green as I thought I'd need 3 gallons for trim and only needed 1. So, the coop's going to be green inside and out I guess, hehe.

I do like the idea of a removable nesting box in my day-tractor. I've got a cat carrier that I could use, but maybe I'll get a small covered litter box that I can butcher. I do think I'd put it on an elevated shelf under the permanent cover to keep the ground clear.

Other than that, I was FINALLY reading a bit on the Learning Center here, and it clearly states the rule of thumb for outdoor runs of 4-5 SF per bird... I doubt I'll end up making my day tractor to be 4'x10' to give the extra two feet to accommodate 4 layers. They'll just have to make due... Of course, who knows, I haven't checked out the availability of 10 foot 2x2s.

Thanks again, I really appreciate the assistance!

 

[believer01]

What I need to know is how does one get 5 feisty hens from the night-time pen area and into the daytime tractor?

My covered pen area is about 14x28', in one corner of a fenced yard. My girls love getting out, but now we've got 2 hawks sitting in the trees watching them so they need protection. I would think I could get them to return to the pen at night with food/treats ... but does that work in reverse if they've got the whole acre yard they're used to running in?

 

[believer01]

ps ~ Sinfonian....found your tater growing bin last year and tried it! Awesome. Thanks for all the details!

 

[elmo]

Quote:
You train them. Chickens are amazingly trainable, much easier to train than dogs, in my opinion. Of course, I wouldn't try to train chickens loose in a yard with a predator (owl) watching. Wait until the owl has flown away.

I herd our flock using two long handled items, one in each hand. Usually I use the poop scooper and pan that I use to clean up the coop and run because these tools are handy, but I've also used those foam pool noodles, too. You just start walking behind the chickens using the tools in your hands to guide them in the general direction you want to go. Throw down some scratch in the tractor before hand, leave the door to the tractor wide open, then herd the flock towards it. The first couple of times you do this it will be difficult, but as soon as one chicken goes in and finds the scratch, the others will usually follow her. Once they get used to the routine, the herding will usually go smoothly because the chickens will have learned what to do. Returning them to the coop at the end of the day is just the reverse process and you'll train them to expect this, too.

We have one chicken in our flock, "Wrong Way" Scooter, who almost always manages to head in the opposite direction as the rest of the flock. But even she manages to get where she's supposed to go eventually, after a lot of gallumping around the yard.

I used to split the flock into two separate day pens, with the older chickens going into one pen and the younger girls going into another (I was worried about the younger ones getting bullied from eating). That was harder, but still quite doable.

Herding chickens is fun. Yee haw!