protocols for introducing new chickens

[webphut]

Wife, kids and I are preparing to introduce new young chickens to our older existing established flock. I am reading about mentioned protocols as far as introducing new chickens in several similar threads. Is there a sticky conversation on the protocols or proven methods to merging chickens in an established coop/run?

We have some extra unused collapsible dog crates laying to dust in our garage. I was going to clad them with some wood siding and literally just place them on the ground inside the chick run. I was trying to keep the new chickens from being pecked to death by the established chickens, since it is there coop and run. I figured if they had their own small coop(the retrofitted dog crates) the older chickens might leave the new chicken alone if they stayed in there at night. I m thinking now though after some reading on the forums, putting up a wire divider to seperate for a month or so. I will need to provide food and water feeders in new chickens area.

 

[aart]

Is there a sticky conversation on the protocols or proven methods to merging chickens in an established coop/run?

Not really. There could be vast differences depending on coop/run setups, numbers/ages of birds, etc.
Might help to show your set up for specific suggestions.

I learned to integrating chicks young works much better, but it took some effort to get the set up right to do that:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/

Here's some basic things to keep in mind:
Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article

Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

 

[Ridgerunner]

Yes, each situation is unique. Some of the information that could help us come up with specific suggestions for you would be how many, what age, and what sex are your young ones. How many, what age, and what sex of the older ones? How big, in feet or meters, is your coop? How big, in feet or meters, is your run? Photos of the inside of your coop or the coop/run set-up could prove valuable. What will the weather be like when you start this process, mainly how cold or hot? Do you consider your run predator proof?

Without specific information I can't do any better than aart's generic suggestions.

 

[gtaus]

I can't do any better than @aart's generic suggestions.

Yep, works for me as well. Although I keep my chicks in a brooder for 8-10 weeks due to our cold springtime weather in northern Minnesota. I just want my chicks fully feathered out and able to defend themselves by running away if needed. I also get nervous when integrating new chicks into an existing flock, but fortunately, I have never lost a young pullet. Good luck.

 

[Mrs. K]

I too am an advocate of getting them in young. I do it by putting my chicks in a safety zone for just a day or two, then I open the safety zone, so that the chicks can go out into the big girls coop, and escape back into a safety zone. So they venture forth, and quickly scurry back to safety on their terms. I do this by lifting the separating fence a few inches off the ground.

I also put a pallet in the middle of the run, a couple of feet away from the safety zone. This I lay flat up on some rocks, this gives chicks a place to scurry if getting chased that can be approached by all sides.

However I have a huge run, 20 feet x 30 feet, I have multiple feed bowls. I do feed the chicks in the safety zone, and provide water there too.

I train my chicks to sleep in the dog crate, by locking them in the crate for several nights before I attempt to integrate them. Come dark, they will go there. Then, I shut the gate, and stick the whole thing in the coop.

After a few days in the morning, I just open the gate, and the chicks come out on their own. I have the pallet not too far from the coop door, so they can escape quickly. The first few days, I carry the empty crate into the run, so they chicks get into it at night, but a couple of days of coming out of the coop, and I just leave the gate open, and they return there on their own.

Mrs K

 

[aart]

I just want my chicks fully feathered out and able to defend themselves by running away if needed.

But they can run faster and hide easier when they are smaller.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I have yet to see an immature pullet fight a mature chicken. Size doesn't matter, they try to run away if there is conflict. It is a matter of maturity. You can get a lot of different things with cockerels when they are in puberty but I've never seen a pullet defend herself. If they cannot get away they lay down and try to protect their head. The way the older ones typically try to kill them is to peck a hole in their head.