Question about breaking a broody

Ryguy3684

Here comes the Rooster
May 29, 2020
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Fauquier County, Virginia, United States.
We have had 3 warm days in Virginia, and one my 10 month old Buff Orpingtons went broody. She's determined. Normally, I wouldn't mind letting them hatch, but I have an incubator full of eggs and their brooder (in my run) is the only isolated area I have to move her to, so that's out.
What I've done so far. It's been two days. I booted her out Sunday evening and closed the door to the nesting area. She free ranged and roosted with the others that night. About 11 Monday morning, she went back to the nest for the day. My wife got home that evening and put a frozen water bottle under her. She sat on it, shivering, until my wife gave in and removed her from the nest again, closing the nesting area door. She, once again, went back to the others and roosted with them. 9:00 this morning, she's back on the nest. Rinse. Repeat. I don't have a wire dog cage, but could get one if that's the only option. Are there any other things to try? I thought that once they gave up and roosted with the others, that meant she was good to go. :idunno . I've never dealt with a broody hen before, so any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
The science behind broodiness is that hormones elevate the hens body temperature. The hen will seek a nest or any surface that reflects her body heat back to her, thus perpetuating her hormones. You need to cool her body down by circulating cool air under her. An ice pack is a solid surface, and despite being cold, will still reflect her body heat back to her and perpetuate the hormones. I've tried the ice trick and it failed miserably.

An open-mesh bottom cage is what many of us use to break a broody. It confines her so she can't find an alternate spot to hunker down, and it allows cool air to circulate under her, interrupting the body heat that keeps the hormones flowing. Be sure she has food and water and isn't too cold. Just air underneath her.

It takes about three days of this to break a broody, but if she runs back to a nest when you let her out, she needs more time in the cage. The longest it took one of my hens to break was ten days in the cage. The shortest time was about a day and a half.
 
The science behind broodiness is that hormones elevate the hens body temperature. The hen will seek a nest or any surface that reflects her body heat back to her, thus perpetuating her hormones. You need to cool her body down by circulating cool air under her. An ice pack is a solid surface, and despite being cold, will still reflect her body heat back to her and perpetuate the hormones. I've tried the ice trick and it failed miserably.

An open-mesh bottom cage is what many of us use to break a broody. It confines her so she can't find an alternate spot to hunker down, and it allows cool air to circulate under her, interrupting the body heat that keeps the hormones flowing. Be sure she has food and water and isn't too cold. Just air underneath her.

It takes about three days of this to break a broody, but if she runs back to a nest when you let her out, she needs more time in the cage. The longest it took one of my hens to break was ten days in the cage. The shortest time was about a day and a half.
Thank you for explaining the reason behind the cage trick. That's good to know. I'll try that.
 
If your weather is warm and pleasant, you may be able to kick-start the process by giving her a brief, shallow bath in cool water to cool her underside and under her wings. My Orpingtons seemed to enjoy it, as their breast area actually felt feverish when they were broody. It must be a warmish day, though, you don't want her to chill. I also suggest letting her out in the evening to run around, poop, dust bathe and exercise a bit. If she goes back to the nest just put her back in the crate. @azygous, does this sound okay to you?
 
.... here’s another idea .... give her the chicks once they hatch - will save you TONS of time and energy and you’ll get tough little chicks instead of wussy little brooder chicks. No cocci, no pasty butt. A broody hen is like winning the lottery if you’re trying to hatch. I would roll with it.
 
.... here’s another idea .... give her the chicks once they hatch - will save you TONS of time and energy and you’ll get tough little chicks instead of wussy little brooder chicks. No cocci, no pasty butt. A broody hen is like winning the lottery if you’re trying to hatch. I would roll with it.
Good call. She'll have only been broody for 14 days by the time they hatch. Will that still work?
 
I don't have a wire dog cage, but could get one if that's the only option.
Get one or more now...they are very handy IME.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...rates-a-good-tool-for-every-chickeneer.72619/


She'll have only been broody for 14 days by the time they hatch. Will that still work?
That sounds about perfect.
Do you have a section partitioned off in the coop for chicks, can you put her in there to 'brood'?

you’ll get tough little chicks instead of wussy little brooder chicks.
HA!
I've found broody chicks to be rather 'wimpy' once mama weans them.
I'd much rather hatch or buy chicks and integrate early...they get 'tough' young.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/
 

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