Questions on Framing

LightedPrism

Chirping
Nov 13, 2020
78
141
63
Cottonwood CA
So my design is getting there! Yeah!

A few things that are a little possible needed information.
I have a feeling I will be in a wheelchair at some point soon, so I planned the coop around it. the poop board is 24in tall so i can move a chair under it if needed. as well as 36in wide almost everywhere so i can easily move around. a 36in doorway is also needed for wheelchair access, which is why the doorways are so wide.

But I have some questions I was hoping a few people would be willing to help me with. most of these are 1sq = 12in, though most of the boards are 2x4's with the 4in facing us.(you can see this on sketch B)

Image Marked #1 (Walls)
*NOTE* I just noticed the nest box and to coop/run are mismarked. the 'nest box' is actually out to the coop. to coop is facing towards nest boxes.

Q1) where the A is marked: Do I need that beam there? Its currently a 4x4x84 but if i could downsize it, or remove all together?

Q2) Is there enough ventilation you think? Each wall at the roof has 16in tall and almost the whole width wide that is 1/4in hard wire cloth. The pop door will also be open 24/7 since it will be a enclosed run. If not enough, i can always add a window (or two) on a few of the walls.

Q3) the upper parts with the slashed shading will be that hard wire cloth. its 16in tall and the bottom is where i want the poop board height which is 24in.

Q4) Also, I was planning to have laminate run up the sides from the bottom to 12in above the poop board roost (12in above the 1st board) Do you think that's far enough or should i go higher?

Image Marked #2 (Run cover / top)
Where the B is marked - currently i have the beams marked with X as 2x2's These are not to bear any load other than support the hardwire cloth that will be underneath it. to keep it from bowing to much. But, do you think i need those middle bars? The frame will also be covered by metal roofing I just want to make sure small things cant get in / out of the roof.

Image Marked #3 (Floor plan)
No major questions on this one. This is just the ultimate floor plan I'd like to do. the 2nd half of the page, under the nest boxes I'm not worrying about at the moment. This one is 1sq = 6in.

Image marked #4: (Roof Plan)
the small bars at the top is how i (think) the roofing will work so it wont drip in the coop/run. I was thinking the ones on the lower set will be under the upper, so all overlapping. The two bars on the Right are also roof. Its going to be each roof siding 3x10. This also includes the #2 area.

Image Marked #5: (Poop Boards)
this is the ply board setup mostly. the one area unmarked is actually where i want to put the brooder. I (think) this one is alright. the nest boxes i plan to be larger at 18in x 18in. I was planning to use a 1x3in furring board for the sides of the poop boards, then laminate over it all. You also see how i want to connect the walls mostly on this one. the squares in the corner are 2x2's that will be the joint.

Image marked #6: (Sketches)
this is mainly the sketches to figure out how i want to do things. the item marked
A: is the poop board setup close up / half edges.
B: is how the poop board setup will be. each roost will be easily removable as needed to clean / scrape anything off. but that junction is where it will rest in. I was planning for it to be 8in high from the ply board.
C: Is another trying to figure out the ceiling. if there are links on how to do the roofing well, I would appreciate any links.

So yeah, this is what i have so far, there is more but these ones are the ones i had questions on currently. So, yeah. Thoughts? I know its a lot, sorry for all the questions but i want to make sure i only have to do this once (ideally).
 

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Percheron chick

Crowing
Apr 12, 2013
4,371
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Hudson, Colorado
I'm going to come in from a different angle. You don't need a traditional coop. The only must I see are security and accessibility. The other considerations are your summers can be miserable but winters are relatively mild. You need protection from wind and driving rain. So what's the best design? I would opt for an open 3 sided design or a hoop coop. A 3 sided loafing shed design will maximize air flow in the summer, winter solar gain( when south facing) and most importantly accessibility. Very cheap to build. Don't need windows or doors. No headers or other design considerations. You can add a 1/2 wall to the front if you need weather protection but a secure wire front opening to a secure run will keep them around for a long time. Chain link panels that bolt together will allow you to back your truck right up to the coop making your annual big clean out a breeze.
IMG_20201230_101732.jpg
This is my goose house. The hens love hanging out in it in the winter. I have a second one that I will convert to a pullet grow out area. It will just have chain link panels on the front and a few roosts. All you would need to do is add exterior nest boxes for easy access.
 

Alaskan

The Frosted Flake
Premium Feather Member
Jul 26, 2008
32,448
62,562
1,392
Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
My Coop
I'm going to come in from a different angle. You don't need a traditional coop. The only must I see are security and accessibility. The other considerations are your summers can be miserable but winters are relatively mild. You need protection from wind and driving rain. So what's the best design? I would opt for an open 3 sided design or a hoop coop. A 3 sided loafing shed design will maximize air flow in the summer, winter solar gain( when south facing) and most importantly accessibility. Very cheap to build. Don't need windows or doors. No headers or other design considerations. You can add a 1/2 wall to the front if you need weather protection but a secure wire front opening to a secure run will keep them around for a long time. Chain link panels that bolt together will allow you to back your truck right up to the coop making your annual big clean out a breeze. View attachment 2468697 This is my goose house. The hens love hanging out in it in the winter. I have a second one that I will convert to a pullet grow out area. It will just have chain link panels on the front and a few roosts. All you would need to do is add exterior nest boxes for easy access.
X2

Here are 2 more photo examples that I pulled from the internet.

Chicken Coop-aviaries.jpg
cedarpet-ranch2_1.jpg
 

LightedPrism

Chirping
Nov 13, 2020
78
141
63
Cottonwood CA
Thanks for the info, but I would like to stay with the 'traditional' coop. everything Ive read says chickens need to roost or else they have more likelyhood of getting bumble foot, especially since I have heavy feathered birds who need to get up out of their poop. . as well as the ability to be fully out of the elements if needed. Yes they are hardy but I would like to be comfortable as well.

I will say, Im trying not to be rude, but I didnt ask for a totally off topic opinion like a suddenly major change of design. I do have snow, over 100 degree summers, And a lot of predators including things that come from the air.

That means my area would always need to be 100% covered. Meaning framing to keep it up. just like in the last image provided.

The only differences between my coop and the last images provided is the last wall, and roosts. which means poop boards.

Even if I went with a 3side design with how large the areas will be i would STILL have most of these questions, which neither of you provided answers to.

Yes, i am in a pissy mood, but that means I reply with much less filter.
 

Alaskan

The Frosted Flake
Premium Feather Member
Jul 26, 2008
32,448
62,562
1,392
Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
My Coop
Thanks for the info, but I would like to stay with the 'traditional' coop. everything Ive read says chickens need to roost or else they have more likelyhood of getting bumble foot, especially since I have heavy feathered birds who need to get up out of their poop. . as well as the ability to be fully out of the elements if needed. Yes they are hardy but I would like to be comfortable as well.

I will say, Im trying not to be rude, but I didnt ask for a totally off topic opinion like a suddenly major change of design. I do have snow, over 100 degree summers, And a lot of predators including things that come from the air.

That means my area would always need to be 100% covered. Meaning framing to keep it up. just like in the last image provided.

The only differences between my coop and the last images provided is the last wall, and roosts. which means poop boards.

Even if I went with a 3side design with how large the areas will be i would STILL have most of these questions, which neither of you provided answers to.

Yes, i am in a pissy mood, but that means I reply with much less filter.
Eh... sorry you thought it was an off topic comment. :idunno


I just think open air coops are highly helpful, especially in hot climates.

I grew up in Texas, with chickens... central area, so yes it would snow on occasion, but coops that were mostly wire were still a great idea.

Also, with any mobility issues... an open air coop is twice as nice.

Yes, I agree as to perches and I love my poop shelves... and the photos I stuck in my post have neither... but yes, I would add them.

Both photos that I posted would be completely predator proof.

As to your specific questions, I didn't answer them one by one... since I had nothing specifically helpful.. but I am happy to try...

Q1) where the A is marked: Do I need that beam there? Its currently a 4x4x84 but if i could downsize it, or remove all together?
You clearly spent a bunch of time on the sketches... but I can’t really figure them out.. not sure why.. they are neat etc.

In the builds I have done... I don't like going much more than 3 feet for vertical supports. A proper heavy roof probably needs to be held up right, so if that is what you are doing build the coop like a house, 2 foot centers. There are probably house building guides on the internet.

I didn't do anything that fancy. I built by eye... the 2 coops I built are still standing, so I guess it was good enough.

I however haven't made a coop with a proper roof... plywood, shingle etc...

Q2) Is there enough ventilation you think? Each wall at the roof has 16in tall and almost the whole width wide that is 1/4in hard wire cloth. The pop door will also be open 24/7 since it will be a enclosed run. If not enough, i can always add a window (or two) on a few of the walls.
I really think if the temps get over 80F... that an open air coop, like the ones in my first post, are the best idea.

my grandmother in Texas had the front coop wall solid wire, and the other 3 sides half wire.

Deep eves to keep out blustering winds are great.

Q3) the upper parts with the slashed shading will be that hard wire cloth. its 16in tall and the bottom is where i want the poop board height which is 24in.
Not really following...but clearly I am slow.
:idunno

Q4) Also, I was planning to have laminate run up the sides from the bottom to 12in above the poop board roost (12in above the 1st board) Do you think that's far enough or should i go higher?
Never put laminate in a coop.

I know nothing about its use.
 

LightedPrism

Chirping
Nov 13, 2020
78
141
63
Cottonwood CA
The drawings are detailed, but not clearly labeled nor conventionally dimensioned.
I'm an old drafter and I am having trouble making sense of them.
Yeah im seeing that. Im going to try changing labeling. but, 1sq = 12in average. which is also why i marked everything with exact measurements. but I'll try to make it bigger / clearer. and repost. So currently no one needs to comment / reply until i get the new / cleaner ones up. I did the last bit of this at like 5am. so was running on very little sleep.
 
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aart

Chicken Juggler!
Premium Feather Member
Nov 27, 2012
90,467
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SW Michigan
My Coop
Yeah im seeing that. Im going to try changing labeling. but, 1sq = 12in average. which is also why i marked everything with exact measurements. but I'll try to make it bigger / clearer. and repost.
Scale is important but so is info on each view.
Look up orthographic drawing of a shed.
Start with the basic floor plan, with each side labeled.
Then each sides exterior elevations.
Framing can be done for each of the above too.
Then details as needed.
 

LightedPrism

Chirping
Nov 13, 2020
78
141
63
Cottonwood CA
Scale is important but so is info on each view.
Look up orthographic drawing of a shed.
Start with the basic floor plan, with each side labeled.
Then each sides exterior elevations.
Framing can be done for each of the above too.
Then details as needed.
Thank you! thats the sort of thing i need So I'll redraw and repost.

Bah who'd have though Id have this much trouble drawing it out :he Thank you
 

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