Rabbit and Rabbit Hutches

Discussion in 'Other Pets & Livestock' started by broberts, Mar 31, 2011.

  1. broberts

    broberts Chillin' With My Peeps

    31
    0
    80
    Mar 26, 2011
    Ocean Springs, MS
    Good afternoon. I am about to get some rabbits (6 - 3 New Zealand and 3 Californians) and I am trying to come up with a solution for housing. I am interested in making at least enough hutches for 8 - 10 rabbits.


    I am thinking about using 2x2 for the frame, 2x4's for the legs, 1/2 inch hardware cloth for the floor and 1/2 x 1 inch hardware cloth for the sides and top.


    Does this sound like a good plan or am I trying to over complicate it? I have thought about using J clips to make the cages but I am concerned about the gauge of the cloth. The thickest I could find locally is 19 gauge. Will that support a rabbits weight?


    Any help would be greatly appreciated.


    Brian
     
  2. cackydoodledoo

    cackydoodledoo Chillin' With My Peeps

    Jan 7, 2011
    Crazyville, USA
    When we made ours we made enclosures (like a house with doors on front) with wood on the bottom to hold straw in for them to get warm in the winter and an outer area with hardware cloth on the bottom but I think we used something bigger in guage. Big enough for the poo to fall out the bottom. We are looking at building a walkway into the chicken coop so they have lots of room to run!!
     
  3. mom2jedi

    mom2jedi Chillin' With My Peeps

    735
    0
    139
    Aug 12, 2008
    San Diego, CA
    Whatever you end up building, I would recommend not putting wood down as a permanent fixture for part of the floor. Had my DH build one for me and I thought that's what I wanted so half is wood and half is 1/2" hardware cloth. In hindsight I wish I'd had him wire the entire bottom and just give them planks of wood to stand on. My little boy bunny decided he loves to poop in the corner that is hardest to reach and because it is wood, it gets stuck there. I have to spray it out every so often and scrape it every other day or so. It would have been much easier if it was all wire. My girl doesn't have the same problem but if we ever build another hutch, I will be changing that design.
     
  4. broberts

    broberts Chillin' With My Peeps

    31
    0
    80
    Mar 26, 2011
    Ocean Springs, MS
    mom2jedi,
    That was one of the things I was thinking about. I guess that is why I keep changing my mind. I think the best thing I can do is to find a heavier gauge wire and make them all wire. I had also heard of the rabbits chewing the wood. With that in mind, I was a little nervous about using treated lumber. Maybe I need to come up with something using pvc.


    Thanks for the responses so far.
     
  5. MrsFordTN

    MrsFordTN Chillin' With My Peeps

    189
    4
    101
    Mar 16, 2011
    Knoxville, TN
    Quote:I agree! I love my all wire cages. They are easy to clean, neat for nest boxes and Cheaper in the long run then hutches!

    Now I would suggest a bigger area for those breeds, not sure what you had in mind size wise though. NZ and Calf are BIG rabbits, thus more space, I would go with at least 3 long and 2 deep. I would keep the 2 deep as you want to be sure you can reach every corner. We have Satins and I really like 3 x 2 for bucks and Jrs and 4 x 2 for does and litters, on our 4 x 2 there are 2 doors on most.

    Good luck with them and please post pics if you can!
     
  6. broberts

    broberts Chillin' With My Peeps

    31
    0
    80
    Mar 26, 2011
    Ocean Springs, MS
    MrsFordTN,
    I was thinking about 30x36 for the area for each of the rabbits. What gauge hardware cloth did you use to support your bunnies? Also, do you have the cages mounted to anything to help keep them out of the elements? I am thinking about a pvc frame (since my wood concerns were confirmed). You wouldn't happen to have a picture of your setup would you?
     
  7. MrsFordTN

    MrsFordTN Chillin' With My Peeps

    189
    4
    101
    Mar 16, 2011
    Knoxville, TN
    I can get a pic tomorrow. Our doe cages are in our bunny barn, thus stack cages with trays, we ordered them, but our cages were made by my father in law and older ones by a rabbit breeder I know that I bought satins from. 36x30 is good, but our doors are sometimes on the top, well the cages are normal squared and then the front is about a foot tall then it slants back to meet the top, so they are truly 5 sided (promise I will get pics).

    We have a open barn type car port thingy that we hung our cages in. We just used heavy duty roofing nails and nailed them into a 2 x 4 on the wall. I mean I know that sounds cheap, but it works. Nothing is bringing those cages down! The open area barn has some lighting and a sliding door and of course a roof for the elements. In the winter we don't breed so we have extra nest boxes and for super cold times we give the boys nest boxes with straw and hay to keep warm. Older or Young rabbits get moved to doe cages in the barn.

    I mean you can get as fancy or as simple as you want and your budget allows. I mean most of our cages are hand made or used, saves for other things, but it's clean, easy to use, and it does it's job.

    Oh I am not sure on the gauge but it's pretty thick! Kevin could tell me later when he gets home. Ours have 1 x 1/2 on the bottom and then larger wire for the sides, saves money too!

    Where are you located, I may know of a wire or cage dealer in your area?
     
  8. cackydoodledoo

    cackydoodledoo Chillin' With My Peeps

    Jan 7, 2011
    Crazyville, USA
    I had all wire in the bottom of the enclosed part and I have to refill it with straw everyday! That is why I put the board in there. If I didn't they would freeze to death I think! The outside part has wire though.
     
  9. Cargo

    Cargo Chillin' With My Peeps

    583
    7
    121
    Sep 28, 2010
    Farmington, NM
    I built my own 6 hole rabbit facility and I learned a few things while doing it and even more in the last year raising rabbits.

    1. I will be ordering new heavy duty cage wire from www.klubertanz.com. The hardware cloth and fencing you can get from local stores is just the cheapest crap they can get.
    Real heavy duty cage wire is worth the bit extra you will spend.

    2. I will build 6 individual cages instead of the 2 three hole cages I built. This will make cleaning and repairs a breeze.

    3. The doors will be HUGE. Try getting a 12lb NZ out of a 12x12 opening.

    4. 30" deep and not 36" deep. I am only 5'8" so reaching a young bunny cowering in the back corner requires a stick.

    5. Frozen water sucks! so I will also spring for a heated recirculating nipple watering system.

    6. a 5.5" feeder is way too big for a single rabbit and a bit too small for a doe and her kits. If you have big meat rabbits make sure to get the wide mouth feeders.
     
  10. Smokehouse13

    Smokehouse13 Chillin' With My Peeps

    235
    1
    121
    Mar 27, 2009
    Vevay,Indiana
    This is what we used when we had rabbits, my husband builds them. We raised NZ , Californias , and Lionheads.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2011
    1 person likes this.

BackYard Chickens is proudly sponsored by