Rabbit Thread

[ChocolateMouse]

I think that's tough to answer because most of us use in-cage nest boxes you can take out or put in. Reason being, a nice cozy hole like that quickly becomes a rabbits favorite litter box in a cage, 8/10 times. Then they try to nest there too and pee all over the kits and they chill and die or get an infection or any number of other problems. So we take out nest boxes if they're not about to give birth and then turn them on their side when the kits start hopping out because they often can't get back in otherwise.

I think there's no height in which hangers-on won't get pulled out but also wobbly babies still finding their feet can get in/out.

I also hope your weather is mild temperature wise. Metal conducts heat and cold like crazy and for that reason many animals prefer still wind outside of metal to shelter in metal. On a still day it may easily be too cold (or any sunny day, too hot) inside the box for kits.

 

[Xerocles]

I think that's tough to answer

@ChocolateMouse I was SO hoping you would jump in here! After our last discussion on proper wire size for cage bottoms, you are my all time favorite Rabbbit Goddess. If you told me to stand my bunnies on their heads once a day, I would probably do it.
Okay. Here's more detail for you. All wire, suspended-air rabbitry, with provisions for all sides covering(pull up/lowering tarps) in inclement weather. Full over head covering about two feet above cage tops. Located under old-growth Hardwoods, allowing over 80% shade during the summer, filtered Sun during winter. Weather approaches from the southeast typically. Position so that covering two sides will protect from probably 98% of inclement weather. Piedmont area of South Carolina. Coldest month February. Lowest low is typically 20 degrees. Before global warming, average high in July and August is around 85, but this year we had two days that broke 100, so Frozen water bottles would be necessary.
The boxes. Despite what I indicated in the opening post, to be used only for kindling. A removable door will be in place at all other times. The Box will be lined with rigid foam insulation laminated with thin veneer of wood, all closely abutted to discourage chewing but easily replaceable. I have not allowed for ventilation but a good idea and one easily integrated. Doing this for my convenience. No lost, damaged, dirty nest boxes. Super easy to clean and disinfect. Pull the door, throw in a handful of straw (well, you know. Place a nest of straw) and good to go. Never needs replacing. Well except for possibly the insulation blocks.
I'm not making the same mistake with rabbits that I made with chickens. Before the first Hopper shows up on my property, all cages to include grow out cages will be 100% finished, equipped with filled feeders and waterers, weather protection, and anything else YOU can think of that I need. Heck, I may even toss my 1 yr old in there for a few days to test it out ( only teasing. I'm 67, and it's been a loooooong time since I've been around any 1 year olds). By the way. I did use 1/2 X 1 flooring, and have installed/am installing 4 inch tall baby-saver around the doe cages.
So, I don't have rabbits yet. Thinking NZ buck,1 NZ doe, 1 Californian doe, & possibly a Champagne doe. Meat rabbits with cross vitality. NZ/NZ for comparison purpose. I know you have rabbits, so, asking your opinion. With ears lowered, what size opening do you think your rabbits could comfortably use?
One more question about housing arrangement, but I suppose I shouldn't load this thread too much.

 

[ChocolateMouse]

Thanks for the compliments. I try to be educated - I'm glad it shows sometimes.
I think that all sounds fine in all but summer. In the summer those nest boxes could still get crazy hot. Should be OK in the winter with the foam bottom. Maybe just plan your litters around the seasons. And mind that Styrofoam closely so it doesn't get eaten. Other things to chew can help with that. The rabbits will have no trouble in the cold outside, though I find mine really like having a cardboard box to hide in.

The only thing I can think of off the top of my head is winter water (Well, I just use lots of bottles and rotate them with warm water a couple times a day, letting them thaw indoors between waterings so not really a big requirement more something to think on) and predator protection. Are your cages rat proof? Do you have dogs, bears or other large mammals that like bunny snacks? Thinking about that might also be wise. Some people I know have had whole cages ripped open by stray dogs and the rabbits gone.

I think your rabbit choices sound good. I'd be hard pressed to pick between cals and NZ as to which one is better. I do like the many colors NZ come in. They come in broken which is one of my favorite coat patterns in general. The contrast is always just lovely. (Though see the Pg4 discussion on megacolon in this thread if you chose to work with broken coats.) I've had very good luck with mixing rabbit breeds for meat purposes, they do grow a bit bigger and faster that way. I have no personal experience with Champagne D'Argente (which is what I presume you mean), so I can't comment much on them but I've heard they can be good.

If I were making a cozy opening for a bunny, I would make it 6-8" around. They probably CAN squeeze through smaller but wouldn't want to. The meat rabbits have got some big butts and I like to accommodate those.

 

[Xerocles]

Are your cages rat proof?

Rats? RATS! I didn't think about rats, but a small one could get through the 1 X 1. "Add rat guards to the support columns." I used to have mice...but the snakes ate them all. Then the weasels ate all the snakes just before the coyote killed all the weasel. I guess the bobcat was still hungry after eating all the oppossums and racoons, because they soon devoured the coyotes too. Then the bear showed up and scared the bobcat away, but was so frightened by all the news crews photographing him because bears are so rare here, so he left too. Just so George's little bunnies will be safe.
Ok rabbit goddess. You win.....sort of. I will only make ONE (already got it nearly finished actually) of my metal boxes and try it for the next year to see how hot it gets in the summer. And build regular old boring nest boxes for the other two. And I'll make the opening 6 X 8 cause I like big butts, I can not lie.
And I understand that you like that broken color. My preference for color is a nice reddish pink... on the inside. Outside can be plaid for all I care.

 

[ChocolateMouse]

Yeap. Rats are a pain. I have had them eat my baby litters before with mama untouched and unfazed in the cage. The hazards of breeding rabbits willing to let us handle their litters. I have 1/2 wire for all my walls and solid floors and the rats still snuck through a gap at the top of the door where the wire bends. If you want to plan as well as it sounds like you want to, consider rats in your equations.

I mean, the metal boxes are probably fine the rest of the year. I plan around breeding to avoid our coldest cold snap through January/feb. I just try not to have litters for the times it can get down to -15F for a week. (Though, like you I have noticed warmer trends.) I've HAD litters live through that it's just rough, the kits turn to ice in just a few minutes in that temperature if they get pulled from the nest or a little damp. It sounds like you could do the same for your hottest month or two and be fine.

If you don't care at all what the outside of the rabbits looks like and a commercial style setup I would just go for the NZ (whites specifically unless you find better in other colors which is unlikely) and Cals personally. You could also consider an Altex style mix where it's a 1/4 chamapgne d'argente, 1/4 flemmish giant, 1/2 californian over a New Zealand White doe. Many people have had good success with a 1/2 cal 1/2 FG over a NZW doe as well. Crossbreeds are definitely a good possibility if your only goal is meat.

Though you may find it's a waste to get rid of all those beautiful hides. I like to tan them and sew them into useful things myself. Hats, gloves, pouches, etc. We try to use the whole animal here whenever possible.

 

[nebulathechicken]

So....
I just brought home a rabbit (Chinchilla Mini Satin-to be exact) and it was extremely skittish. Due to her nerves she jumped around a ton and landed wrong on her back foot. Her hind foot is completely limp by the hock and it seems as if her foot is totally snapped by the bone. Im at a loss because there is no way I can go to the vet. Also, to make things worse she might be pregnant. Right now she is isolated in a small are. But I have no clue what to do and I'm kind of freaking out. Any thoughts or suggestions would help. Thanks!

 

[nebulathechicken]

Update: She is doing really good. She is fully eating and drinking; also, she is isolated in a small area to keep her from moving around. Upon further examination the bone is intact and she seems to be in no pain. The odd thing is the foot is limp and it can go in odd directions. Would a splint be a good option, or should I let it heal on its own? Thanks again

 

[Skye'sDucks]

I don't have any experience with your situation, so I'm sure someone else can help you more thoroughly...but when I read that the bone wasn't snapped but moved around odd, have you thought about it being dislocated?

 

[nebulathechicken]

Good news and bad news. Good news, I took her to the vet and had an X-ray. Leg is broken but will heal by itself in 6 weeks. Really bad news...(but suspected) she has snuffles. The vet gave me an antibiotic for treatment, but snuffles is hard to cure and highly contagious. This means that my other bunnies could now have snuffles. I doubt it due to new bunny quarantine, but who knows. Does anyone know any natural remedies like herbs that help. I’ve heard a lot of people recommended Echinacea but I don’t know of dosage plus with the antibiotics... thanks for any help

 

[Tyrovive]

>I have kind of a random hodgepodge collection. I have a blue, rex-coated, mandolin shaped meat mutt project planned but am also getting sucked into purebred Rex and Flemish.<

Lovely buns!
I've had a Californian and a dwarf Himalayan. How would you describe the different fur feel and qualities? I never felt a rex.