Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely check that out! Is spaying and neutering for rabbits expensive?
		
		
	 
Anesthesia in rabbits is tricky, so yes, it is usually pretty expensive to get a rabbit altered. Also, you may have to hunt around a bit to find a vet that sees "exotics."
Every type of rabbit keeping has its hazards. House rabbits can get electrocuted chewing on wires (I've heard a fixation for computer cables is common), develop wool block from chewing on carpet or upholstery, get injured jumping or falling off of furniture or stairs (yes, they climb on things). Even neutered rabbits mark their territory, so even a litter box trained rabbit may leave the odd pee mark in a corner (and some never learn to put all of the "bunny berries" in the box). However some people may feel about animals in cages, sometimes, the safest and sanest way to keep an indoor rabbit is to cage it when you can't be there to keep an eye on it.
Outdoors, of course, has its own hazards, weather being the most obvious. Rabbits are more tolerant of cold than of heat, but care must be taken to provide for their needs in both. Rabbits on the ground may be exposed to a variety of parasites, and need to be checked or treated for them periodically. And, of course, there are predators. No yard, pen, or cage is completely predator-proof; the best you can do is hope that you have built confinement for your pet in such a way that the predator doesn't feel it is worth all the effort it would take to get in, and seeks a meal elsewhere.
A word of caution about rabbits and dogs: I have seen rabbits killed and injured by dogs, when the rabbit didn't get out of the cage, nor did the dog get in. Don't ask how; I have images seared on my mind that I'd rather not put into yours. Just know that it can happen; if you have a high-prey-drive dog (or worse yet, more than one), you need to be sure that the dog can't even get near the cage unsupervised.
In predator situations, the cage itself can become a hazard. Rabbits have two defenses; sit tight, and hope that the predator doesn't see you, or run like the devil himself is after you! If a rabbit gets startled and tries to run, its explosive acceleration can get it moving fast enough that it can hit the cage wall hard enough to break its own neck (this could happen in a house, too, if you have a sliding glass door or something that could look like an opening but really isn't).
When it comes to keeping rabbits together, I like to say that they get along, until they don't. For some rabbits, that may mean a lifetime of apparent harmony, but I have seen even siblings do terrible things to each other when the need for their own space overruled whatever "bond" they were supposed to have. Space seems to be main consideration; some rabbits may not want that much, while for others, a whole city block might not be enough. Spaying and neutering seem to be imperative if you mean to keep rabbits together, though you will probably see some sexual/dominance behavior, even after the reproductive organs have been removed.
A lot of care must be taken if you are putting adult rabbits together; a certain amount of scuffling is to be expected (in any gender combination), but if it becomes an honest-to-goodness fight, the rabbits may never learn to get along - so much depends on the personality (fursonality?) of the rabbits.