Raising Coturnix in a chicken tractor, and other questions?

nekomi

In the Brooder
11 Years
Oct 24, 2008
81
0
39
Ohio
Well, I've been doing some research into small meat birds, and came across the Coturnix. I have a couple questions if you guys don't mind!

First of all, I see that most folks are keeping their coturnix in a hutch or cage setting. They're not kept in outdoor pens or free-ranged like chickens because they can fly, correct? (Sorry, total coturnix newbie here
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) So, if I wanted to raise Coturnix in a way that let them grab bugs, grass, etc. would a chicken tractor be appropriate? Or do coturnix not even EAT grass and bugs? (LOL) Ideally I'd like to raise them as close to "free-range" as you can get for a quail.

Second, what is the size/weight difference between "normal" and jumbo Coturnix? I've also seen people talking about an all-white variety, is there a benefit to raising that variety for meat, or is it just personal preference?

And lastly - where do you guys get cartons for itty bitty quail eggs?
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Thanks for the info!!!
 
Most people don't raise them on the ground because you have to worm them then. if you raise them on wire, you don't. Since they are full grown in such a short period of time, if you are raising them for eating, why deal with worming.

Not sure on the size question but someone will know. Texas A&M ( white ones) are all white meat I believe.. where the other's arent.

You can get quail cartons at eggcartons.com


Nancy
 
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My quail are not for eating, they are just breeders. So I probably will put them on the ground. The only ones that are for eating (so far) are extra males, and they get sold right out of the brooder. I did put my normal browns in a chicken tractor when I first got them, they loved it!! It was so neat to see them acting like they should!
You can get cartons off eggcartons.com, or you could do a search on ebay, there are always some on there! I think the flats work better though, the coturnix eggs are too big for the 'fold-over' plastic cartons, and often end up getting cracked
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a chicken tractor would be the closest to free ranging that any quail could get without actually being free. If you let them free range, most likely they wouldn't come back.

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Thanks so much for all the information, guys! It's very helpful.

Regarding the worming - you guys are mentioning that you don't put the meat birds on the ground, but you do with the pet birds (or want to try!). Is this because the worms these guys can get (if not dewormed) can possibly transfer to humans, or because the dewormer itself isn't something you want in the meat you eat, or because of some other reason?

Thanks!! Sorry for all the odd questions, I'm just trying to figure out how I can best raise these guys here.
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I know that the wormer meds can be present in the eggs for two weeks after worming them, I believe I have read it stays in the bird for like a month? I know that the wormer I use for my chickens (wazine) says not to treat them for like 3 or 4 weeks (I think) before processing. So I would say that's probably why. But I believe the worms they would be most exposed to would be roundworms, and I would think that could be transfered?? Not sure how that works though.
 
I am looking at setting up a 8'x20' flight pen for quail. I am stuck between BW and Coturnix? I want them for meat mor than eggs. If you had to worm the birds, with the BW not matured until 16+ weeks, wouldn't they give more time to give them the worming medacine. Maybe I need to make a raised floor, but I liked the Idea of a large ground pen.

Where can you get more information on the worming medacine?
 
I personally don't want medicated meat birds if at all possible - a raised floor wouldn't be that much more of a problem to build - plus the birds would be cleaner and mother nature would take care of the manure.

Piperazine is what I would use for my rabbits when they need wormed. It has a dose for chickens on the bottle too - and I suppose you would just reduced that dosage by bird size. I had a puppy that I used it on, and our adult SharPei got into it (shoved the pup out of the way because it was on bread) - and later the SharPei had a near liver failure. Assuming he was allergic, or already had a compromised liver from age, I dunno. It happened twice though - and he acted like he was drunk/falling over. The vet thought he had gotten into anti-freeze, but tests showed not. Cost $250 for tests and they found nothing.......but when the second time happened, we knew it was the wormer and we knew he would recover (and he did).

Anyhow, I wouldn't use that on something I was going to eat personally.........

Karin
 
the wormer's approved for poultry don't always get the job done to the extent some need.
many types of worms out there and you will find if you don't have the right wormer your production will go down the drain along with your birds, this will be from raising them on the ground for sure in most cases..

Most of the none approved wormer's work well and one must change things up from time to time to keep the worm loads down.

i found late spring and fall are the worst in my wild game birds(turkeys and pheasants raised on the ground).

However i do still worm my penned raised quail from time to time.. also we use ivermectin as a drench for mites as well and i use DE mixed in sand baths for them..

Do some reading, there is plenty of good info out there, take it and use it to your advantage..

Charlie
 

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