Ramp question: Can chickens hang a right? (90° turn)

[Chicken_man_J]

Frankly I don't own a thermometer, a plate can be assessed with your own hand - it should feel warm/hot, but not burning hot. You angle it yourself, usually the legs are adjustable.

That's up to your own preference. I don't feed medicated because I hope to build up resistance through exposure, but I keep Corid on hand just in case.

I like how you said its not burning hot like a lamp and they can regulate their body temperature.

 

[Chicken_man_J]

Thanks for everyone's advice. Plan on getting a heat plate. Would it be better to section off parts of my coop? If so I'll clean the entire inside of the coop now and any products to use for cleaning it? Would it be better to keep them outside with fresh air and sunlight on the tongue section of the trailer with a heat plate, water, and food during the day and move to coop at night? Have a clear plastic tub I can use to keep the in. I will find out more about them this week and update the post.

 

[rosemarythyme]

In the process of getting everything ready. Should I keep them in a clear plastic tub inside the coop? If so would I just place the heat plate inside of it with water and starter feed? The feed store told me they keep them for a day so they can be re-hydrated after shipping. For waters and feeders is there a particular one?

I'd go cheaper... if you have some cardboard boxes lying around, I'd deconstruct them and tape them securely to form a corral inside the coop. Maybe 24" high and about 10-12 sq ft? That should be plenty of space for the first week or so, after which they'll be big enough to jump out so you'd want to remove it before they do.

You can compost or toss it after.

Feeder and waterer, the usual mason jar type that's common at feed stores is what I use. For 8 you might be able to get by with 1 of each, for 12 maybe bump the feeders to 2 (not sure as I only do 3-4 chicks at a time). Set them up on low bricks or scrap lumber to raise them slightly above the floor/bedding to reduce waste.

(Note I didn't bother buying a mason jar for the feeder, I let them sit in it if they want. But with 8-12 mouths you'll have a hard time keeping it full enough without the jar feeding into it so don't do what I did!)

 

[Chicken_man_J]

I'd go cheaper... if you have some cardboard boxes lying around, I'd deconstruct them and tape them securely to form a corral inside the coop. Maybe 24" high and about 10-12 sq ft? That should be plenty of space for the first week or so, after which they'll be big enough to jump out so you'd want to remove it before they do.

You can compost or toss it after.

Feeder and waterer, the usual mason jar type that's common at feed stores is what I use. For 8 you might be able to get by with 1 of each, for 12 maybe bump the feeders to 2 (not sure as I only do 3-4 chicks at a time). Set them up on low bricks or scrap lumber to raise them slightly above the floor/bedding to reduce waste.

(Note I didn't bother buying a mason jar for the feeder, I let them sit in it if they want. But with 8-12 mouths you'll have a hard time keeping it full enough without the jar feeding into it so don't do what I did!)
View attachment 4063090

If I build a corral wouldn't that allow them to be around their feces adding to the chance can get coccidiosis? Or should I build something like in your picture? Should add pine shavings or keep the floor flat? Should I make water with Corid in case or just give them regular water to start?

 

[rosemarythyme]

If I build a corral wouldn't that allow them to be around their feces adding to the chance can get coccidiosis? Or should I build something like in your picture? Should add pine shavings or keep the floor flat? Should I make water with Corid in case or just give them regular water to start?

My chicks are brooded directly on the run floor (the shavings are just to give them a soft surface to snuggle into) and I don't clean out the brooder. They're on their feces, the adult's feces, on dirt and decomposing leaves and bugs and they're fine for it. The brooder is just under 9 sq ft so their tiny baby poops don't build up enough to be an issue.

I haven't had coccidiosis since my first batch of chicks, which were brooded inside in much more "sanitary" conditions. I keep Corid on hand just in case but haven't needed it in years.

 

[Perris]

Would having a right turn at either the top or bottom of the ramp freak them out?

No. Grown ups frequently hop on or hop off half way up. Chicks the same especially if you put a log half the height of the ramp at the side.

Whatever you do, keep the smooth sides on the insides; they are the defence against mites and the easy-clean technologies.

It is quite extraordinary how people who, frankly, have no idea what this type of coop is like, are so certain (and judgemental) about it. I seem to be the only commentator who does actually have experience with Nestera. And I refrain from passing judgement on all the ramshackle rotting mite infested wood coops and death trap runs I see on BYC.

 

[RoyalChick]

Any particular heating plate brand and how would I use them. I understand about the lamp getting hot. Would I need a thermometer if I were to get a heating plate and what dimensions should I get? Does the plate have to be flat or angled (roof like)? I will talk to the feed store on Monday. Does the starter/grower feed need to be medicated? Would prefer buying locally to support small business rather than ordering.

I got mine on Amazon. No need for a thermometer with a heating plate. It will only freak you out as it doesn’t really warm the air under it. The chicks get warm by putting their bodies up against the plate.
Best to set it at an angle so they can choose what height is most comfy for them. I start with one end almost touching the floor and the other end 2-3 inches higher. Then as they grow I raise it up.
I don’t use medicated.

 

[Mother of Chaos]

No. Grown ups frequently hop on or hop off half way up. Chicks the same especially if you put a log half the height of the ramp at the side.

Whatever you do, keep the smooth sides on the insides; they are the defence against mites and the easy-clean technologies.

It is quite extraordinary how people who, frankly, have no idea what this type of coop is like, are so certain (and judgemental) about it. I seem to be the only commentator who does actually have experience with Nestera. And I refrain from passing judgement on all the ramshackle rotting mite infested wood coops and death trap runs I see on BYC.

Thanks, I figured that the smooth/rough finishes had a purpose. It's a pity that both side panels aren't smooth on each side for easy reversibility, but that would probably result in more Bad Words being spoken during assembly... I still think we have the pop door on wrong, but we'll cross that road when we get it fully assembled (currently just floor, walls, curved roof braces.)

 

[Perris]

this is what I had in mind re: log by ramp for side exit

(mum had just exited stage right, and the chicks were thinking about leaving the coop for the first time)

 

[Perris]

more Bad Words being spoken during assembly... I still think we have the pop door on wrong, but we'll cross that road when we get it fully assembled (currently just floor, walls, curved roof braces.)

I remember struggling with the instructions 1st time, but it's like riding a bike and soon you'll have it off pat. This might help, from Shad's thread, when I partially disassembled to show how easy it is to clean
https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...hickens-thread.1502267/page-907#post-26093710