Rats šŸ˜–

Having chickens eventually leads to wild bird and rat/mice problems.

Do a forum search for Howard E., who in my opinion, is the best rodent expert on the forum. I copied and pasted one of his replies from several years back that has the meat of the solution for you. People tend to run one of two ways, willing to invest in an expensive feeder or willing to fight a battle with rodents and find another way. Only you can say which you have more of; time or money.

Here is Howard E.'s past post:

"To the OP (and others like them), if you will spend the time, everything you need to know about rats and how to get ride of them will be found in the links below......

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/rat-control-the-video-series.1337456/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/rat-control-101.1283827/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/rat-proof-feeder-review.1180514/#post-18610285

This last one is a review of a rat proof chicken feeder built and sold by a BYC member, who is a staunch advocate for the plan of getting rid of rats by starving them out. Remove all sources of feed and they will be forced to move on or starve to death. If you are firmly against the use of poison bait blocks......for whatever reason.......then this is one of the best actions you can take. Bulk food in metal trash cans.....chicken feed in metal rat proof feeders. Can't get to the feed and birds do not spill and waste feed that the rats can survive on."

End of Howard's post.

And the short version of Howard's post? Sanitation, exclusion, elimination.

Sanitation, bulk feed in metal cans or barrels with tight fitting lids, a treadle feeder, clean up the avenues of movement so the rodents have no cover to protect them from their natural predators. In my opinion and experience this is the quickest, surest, and cheapest way to solve a rodent problem.

Exclusion, plugging the holes and building a Fort Knox chicken coop and not leaving an opening for free range. Tough to do and expensive but it could work for rats.

Elimination, poison and traps. Problem is that rats are smart and will quickly learn to avoid both traps and poison bait. Were you to clean them out, the lack of sanitation would mean a new population of rodents would move right in. And there is risk and no end to the process, keeping fresh bait out. However, if you have done your sanitation using poison becomes effective as the rats are starving and will likely try the poison bait. Not needed though, they will leave in a few days as long as you are not feeding the rodents with a compost pile or other animal feed. Not all will leave, your area will have a natural carrying capacity for rodents, natural feed, but that natural ability to sustain rodents is quite small and the natural predators keep them in check and under cover as the rodents hustle to find this natural food.

Do a forum search on "rats chickens" and you will find most of the old wives tales exposed and read of long epic battles against the rodents. Sanitation, exclusion, or elimination all have associated costs but you are already paying for the feed and will recover the initial costs quickly with the first method.

Good luck and remember, it isn't just the stolen feed, disease and predators come with rodents.
 
Poison can be dangerous. One of your chickens or some other harmless wildlife could eat it too. And yes, if the rat eats it and dies in your coop and then your chickens eat the rat it could make them sick as well.

Rats are a huge problem when it comes to chickens. As if eating the chickens feed isn't enough, they also steal eggs and can kill chickens (or injure them).

Snap traps can be effective as they cause quick deaths but rats are very smart and if they see other rats in the traps they'll learn to avoid them. You could maybe try spraying the yard with scents they do not like. Pepper spray, garlic, peppermint, or a predator's scent may work.

Maybe someone else will jump in on ideas. I do know that once rats develop a big colony it is extremely difficult to get rid of them. Best of luck.
I know which is why I havenā€™t even considered using poison up until this point. But I'm worried its not happening fast enough and the longer it goes on the harder it will be because of how quickly they can multiply. I havenā€™t tried spraying with scents as you suggested. I can do that.
 
Poison will be the only way, sorry. Set bait stations where only rodents can enter them, near their burrows. Also put bait blocks down into the tunnel, with concrete blocks on top, so nobody else can get into them. Most of the rats will die in their tunnels, reducing the risk to other critters. And keep your own pets away from these areas!
We've had to use poison twice over thirty years, warned the neighbors, and found a total of two mice once above ground.
And carefully choose what baits used, some are 'safer' than others.
You might have to change baits after a week or two also. Rats are VERY smart!
Mary
I know Ive read majority of people had to end up resorting to poison eventually. Especially with infestations. We make sure we give a break or two without traps set but with bait on them as read then we will catch some after the break but not as many as I would like! I heard someone suggested using plaster of paris and peanut butter and making little bait balls with this and apparently they eat it and die. Have u ever tried this method?
 
Are they rats or mice? There is a difference, sound like mice to me.. field mice most likely they get big but not near as big as rats. I have had great success with bucket traps for over 25 years. Very easy and safe to make and to use.
Oh no theyā€™re rats! Theyā€™re nasty roof rats ill upload you a photo. Weā€™ve had luck with bucket traps and mice not rats though. We do still continue to use it though I actually have to reapply more bait to the bottle. Is the issue anything to do with our trap from what you can see?
 

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Oh no theyā€™re rats! Theyā€™re nasty roof rats ill upload you a photo. Weā€™ve had luck with bucket traps and mice not rats though. We do still continue to use it though I actually have to reapply more bait to the bottle. Is the issue anything to do with our trap from what you can see?
Iā€™d try a slick aluminum can, like a tall boy or bigger energy ā€œpoisonā€ drink can.. Gatorade plastic bottles are textured or easily scratched.. and the ripples and ridges in them to boot.. they can easily get a toe holt and jump from that..
 

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