Rooster is being a jerk

[bobbi-j]

@ 2 many chickens - cull him. No one deserves to be attacked for feeding and caring for a bird. They tend to attack children, women and men in that order. If he is attacking your husband, he is not going to quit. Your flock will be much happier without him. An attacking rooster is alarming to the flock, that keeps them in a high stress level, and often times that reduces egg production. Always solve for the peace of the flock, a peaceful flock is the most fun.
Mrs K

 

[ChxLadyCass]

I've 2 roosters i own them on when they 1 day old .
They're like my kids
But one thing I love about them is they are roosters and I've been reading entire BYC rooster hurt ppl .

But if u meet my rooster they will don't hurt u at all even they will come to greet u Jump on ur lap ..they fight with each other but never hurt us or anyone

My previous rooster was harmless as well! I honestly believe that the dog antagonizing him has flipped the switch for this little guy to be aggressive. It's a bummer too! He was the friendliest roo I had!

 

[Ol Grey Mare]

My previous rooster was harmless as well! I honestly believe that the dog antagonizing him has flipped the switch for this little guy to be aggressive. It's a bummer too! He was the friendliest roo I had!

Have you taken steps to correct the dog issue?

 

[bobbi-j]

Have you taken steps to correct the dog issue?

Good question.

 

[chickens really]

Hey there!

My rooster is about 11 months old and has started attacking my daughter and I. He got me by surprise this morning and it didn't hurt, but made me wanna hurt him back! He has been raised by my own hand and has always like us until recently. He's also been chased around by a dumb dog on our property and I wonder if that has triggered his aggression? He is also over mating about half my flock. The youngest gals are starting to bald! Is there anything I can do to curb his behavior? Does he need a time out? Is he just a bad egg or is this typical of a young man? Thank you for your help and advice!

What breeds?..How many Hens and keep him out of your 4 foot radius at all times. Never turn your back. He needs to respect your space..

 

[2 many chickens]

Even though we get cockerels specifically to raise up and eat, it's still not "easy" for me. When we process, we use the hatchet and stump method (and by "we" I mean DH) because it's fast and the chicken is dead within seconds. They never know what happened. I catch them, hand them off to DH, he whacks them, it's done. Less than a minute. I do not feel confident or coordinated enough to use the hatchet myself. If I am in a position to have to kill a chicken myself, I will use a killing cone and something very sharp - knife, or maybe tree lopper - to decapitate a chicken. I have seen the broomstick method, and again - I just don't feel comfortable trying it for myself. Those who can do it effectively swear by it. I don't know if you've eaten your own chickens yet, but if not you need to know they are not like the ones you buy at the grocery store. They have more texture and flavor than a grocery store chicken. Your birds will need to cook longer - low and slow. Definitely not pan fryers or for grilling. I pressure cook mine if doing one at a time. I also pressure can them when I have several to do. I love having canned chicken on hand! It's a little time consuming, but well worth the effort. I think your rooster needs to go. There is no need to keep a human aggressive rooster around.


I'm not sure why you want to keep this rooster around, but if you want to try to rehab him, here is a post by member Beekissed on taming aggressive birds.
I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

When she says to give him a "whack" it does not mean to beat him senseless, or to cause him pain. It just means smack him enough to get his attention. Startle him, but do not hurt him. Your kids would need to understand this. If you really, really want to keep your rooster (although I still don't understand why...) this might be your best shot.

You, your husband and kids will all have to try it, but if your kids are quite young I don't know if they're ready. Personally, I'd be getting rid of a rooster that attacks me every day, and for sure if he was attacking kids. Think about where those spurs are when he's coming at you. A lot of times at eye level to a child.

Im past giving them chances, I was over it a while ago. Husband is the one who won't let them go. He's even considering incubating some of their eggs. will the roo pass on his evil genes to future offspring?

 

[bobbi-j]

Im past giving them chances, I was over it a while ago. Husband is the one who won't let them go. He's even considering incubating some of their eggs. will the roo pass on his evil genes to future offspring?

It's entirely possible. I would not let this rooster play in the gene pool. How old are your kids? Do you really want this evil rooster to ruin chicken keeping for them for life? He could - especially if he injures one of them.

 

[2 many chickens]

It's entirely possible. I would not let this rooster play in the gene pool. How old are your kids? Do you really want this evil rooster to ruin chicken keeping for them for life? He could - especially if he injures one of them.

6, almost 10 and almost 13.
just need to convince DH to let them go. Don't know why he wants to keep something that attacks people. He thinks it's OK now that they no longer free range. It's like having a rabid dog in a cage but instead of the barking and snarling it's crowing. He thinks he can fix their behavior... not so sure.

 

[Kessel23]

I tolerate mean roosters around my coop, there is no reason for it other than I just like them. There attacks do not really bother me. My dad would also tolerate mean roosters, they would attack me when I was a kid and I would just bring a stick with me to beat them up when they did. I know it seems weird to keep them around but they are my birds, not yours sooooo it is up to me
I still do not recommend you keep the roo, do whatever you have to to get rid of him For killing I prefer the axe and log method, it is definitely the quickest way. I really do not approve of the put in the cone and slit the throat method which seems to be the most popular. I think the cone way puts them through a lot of trauma, I mean you are shoving them upside down into a cone and then pulling out their head through a tiny hole and slitting their neck which is definitely not a instant kill. I think this is a method used only because it creates less of a mess than the axe.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

@EggSighted4Life where do you cut on the neck. After using the stick, I put them in a cone and “try” to cut the jugular to drain any blood I can. Rooster feathers are tough to get through. The videos I have watched show young meat birds that make it look easy, they just give a poke or whatever and it works. I have a hard time finding the right spot and getting through the feathers! Any videos you could recommend?

You might do just as well to take the whole head off with loppers like suggested by another poster.

I practice the cutting motion like I'm getting ready to cut a steak off of a roast. (I do better if I practice the motion, similar to a boxer.) With the neck facing out away from the wall, back of head held in my left hand, I angle the beak down and cut right at the base of the ear lobes/waddles. Since I am working with a live bird, it's heart it still pumping. My knife is kinda long, so I start with the front of the knife connecting with the skin on the side of the throat closest to me... and keep plunging as DEEP & firm as I can in a steady motion all the way across until the back end of my blade. I PART the feathers and put my knife to the skin. Actually the back of the blade first when the bird is alive to desensitize them to the feel of it so they don't clench, tuck or whatever. I'm not aiming to take the head off.. so I hold the top of the head open and drain the blood out of it to make the bird unconscious quickly. I then let it go and walk away until the death jerk has passed. Not usually very long. I would say they drain for a few minutes. But we've never actually timed to see how fast since we are just going at our pace.

You mention a "stabbing"... this is something I SHOULD consider... because it is how we easily get through the skin of a tomato! So that actually makes sense.

And yes it seems the younger the bird the less connective tissue and other things. So they are easier, I think.

I see they already mentioned ya gotta cook slow and low... Don't forget to let rigor pass. Some people put it in the pot right away and claim to still be fine. Most say a few days before freezing or cooking. We let ours sit in the fridge at least a few day before we decide to freeze or cook usually.

will the roo pass on his evil genes to future offspring?

Maybe not to ALL offspring... but you BETTER believe it! Attitude is 100% in the very TOP of the things I select for in ALL my stock. It makes a difference.

I would say oh you can cull out the jerks from the next generation... but how if you can't from this one? (I know hubby, we are talking).

Trust me! I had that perfect, rare breed, beautiful cockerel with no comb sprigs or split wing, good shank and eye color, nice feather pattern, intending for breeding... FRIENDLIEST ever Well, ya get attacked enough times.... and you suddenly have a new perspective! Only thing I regret was putting up with it for so long. Hah, I don't even have that "docile" breed any more.

I do wanna say... this is NOT an "evil" rooster. This is a cockerel who was handled like a lap pet and is coming into spring mating hormones... stupidly testing his boundaries. It's what every juvenile creature does eventually. He is granted... a little on the bastard side... but not evil. Just as he was created. And even if the term rooster takes effect at 1 year... that isn't nearly when I think full maturity has taken place. Still kinda like 18 year olds instead of 14 year olds. Still throwing fits trying to get what they think they deserve just with more weight behind them. Once mature they may understand they have to got to work to earn their LOT and be respectful of THE MAN, whether they like it or NOT.

Does the dog have SOMETHING to do with the change... MAYBE. But why not direct the aggression AT the dog?! This is VERY classic of a coddled cockerel (it's already been said not ALL). And maybe a little denial or misunderstanding on the behavior of cockerels on the part of the owner. The dog as seen as a threat well enough to be avoided. You (hubby) are seen as competition. I think. Or at least a threat that can be taken down. Stupidity HAS to go... hubby's GOT to bite it on this one!

That lovely story of those two young boys who fight with each other but would NEVER hurt a person... also AREN'T mating or even in the presence of the ladies. But it's true MANY of us have roosters that do NOT attack or give the dog the stink eye for playing Frisbee.

Let me also say... I keep breeding pens and a stag pen. Escapes happen and confinement is no guarantee of safety... I don't have any kids or kids visiting that it will be an issue for though... just an inconvenience to my breeding program.

Good luck reaching an agreement with your family that TRULY works for y'all!