Roundworms in my chicken. How do I get rid of them?

Was she sitting on her eggs or is she currently laying eggs? Is that a dropping from a long sitting on the nest?

My hens sit on their eggs a full 24 hours, sometimes 48 hours before jumping up to exercise and eat. Does that explain the lack of eating or is she just lethargic and standing off her nest?

You absolutely have to worm her and your flock. A good time to worm is after she is done laying and sitting on her eggs. A not so good time to worm is during laying because who knows how the eggs are affected.

Just to add a drug to your list, look for oral Ivermectin drops if you can buy that. Unfortunately I don't know if you can buy Ivermectin in the US. Ivermectin is the drug name, not a brand name. It's used in cattle, livestock, dogs , chickens, humans, etc and it kills all kinds of parasites and worms. Three drops for a full grown chicken and it kills these worms pretty much overnight.

Usually with large chickens they can handle worms until you start to see them losing weight. And also you need to do your whole flock like others said, just be weary of your eggs. The photo looks okay if that is a dropping from a long egg sitting session, she obviously passed quite a few of them but you have no idea how long they have been establishing inside or how many are left.
She isn't laying per-say but she is sitting on her eggs and not coming out at all.
 
Yeah, I have heard that a time or two (like your the second? :idunnolol) If I know a specific girl is infested I will do direct treatment but for the flock, and what I like about treating the water is it treats all- like all things that visit my yard and eat and drink- I have plenty feral chickens, doves etc. it is hot here and my girls drink plenty and it seems to be working more than fine, though I was thinking about getting a fecal float after treatment- today is day 5 for my flock- to see if and what survives. That will certainly determine how I continue to feel about adding to the water. I did have some good worm shed the last 3 days but my girls were a little past due- nothing on the boards prior to treatment- so was surprised by more than a few worms.

Poultry DMV
Brand Names: Panacur, Safeguard Drug Type: Anthelmintic FENBENDAZOLE Overview Fenbendazole (brand names Panacur® and Safe-Guard®) is a benzimidazole anthelmintic used 'off label' to treat a variety of intestinal parasites (e.g., roundworms, flukes, certain types of tapeworms, and Giardia) in pet poultry. Fenbendazole can be administered to each chicken orally by syringe, or added the flock’s drinking water source. Fenbendazole may not be effective against Capillaria spp. Fenbendazole is absorbed in the intestine, and is rapidly metabolized by the liver. The metabolic pathway of fenbendazole in chickens is the same as in mammals. Fenbendazole is eliminated from the body predominately by the feces. Residue levels in the eggs is highest the first day following the last day of treatment, and decline rapidly thereafter. Fenbendazole must be given for 3-5 consecutive days to kill parasites, since it needs to halt cell division for a certain duration before it is fatal to the parasite. Caution. Fenbendazole shouldn't be given to pet poultry who are actively growing new feathers, such as those in the early stages of growth or during molting. Fenbendazole shouldn't be given to chickens with suspected Capillaria infestations. Storage/Stability: Fenbendazole should be stored at room temperature. Products Dosage Drug Form References

See more at: http://www.poultrydvm.com/drugs/fenbendazole
I'm sure it's only my one hen that has worms. All the other chickens are fine, foraging and doing normal things, it's just her that's acting odd. How do I treat her directly? I have the safeguard goat wormer liquid and a pellet version if that helps.
 
Good morning @Harun
It sounds like she may be broody also and that is a another thing separate from worms.

Dealing with the worms is your first priority so let's address that. If one chicken has- assume all have, you just don't know it yet. Good you have Safeguard, do you have a syringe? The standard recommended dose- wish @dawg53 left that tidbit of dosing info- "Dose would be 0.23 ml per pound for 5 days" so an average 5lb chicken will need 1.20 mils directly dosed into her mouth. BUT, you have to dose her in a way that she does not asperate so divide your dose up into 1/4s and let her swallow in between. You will need to do this to every chicken for 3-5 days. Then repeat in 10 days.
Some people dose their chickens by putting it on their food, same 0.23 dosing applies be sure they get their dose.
IF you choose to do the (unrecommended) water method as I have been doing, it's 3 mils per gallon. Mix a gallon and dispense. I only put 1/2 gallon in my waterers at a time and remix and refill during the day when/if needed. This is also a 3-5 day repeat again with the 3-5 dose in 10 days.

If you are not planning on letting your hen hatch eggs you will need to "break her" of her broodiness. If you do plan to let her sit, she will be fine with treatment.
If you can, I have found it helpful to offer chooks some yogurt for their bellies after I'm done treating for worms to help restore their gut flora. Any yogurt or probiotic is a treat.

Good luck, glad you reached out, you got this!
My dad was planning on using Safeguard pellets for the redt of the flock and directly treat her with the liquid. Would that work well?
 
I have never experienced any negative effects from safeguard or worming of any kind in general. Just be sure to follow the dosage. I have had many negative outcomes from having worms in any of my animals. It is just not good and causes trouble one way or the other. I think it may be a X2 in the tropics IMO.
I want to treat the rest of my flock just to be safe, but my darn arrogant father doesn't want to give it to them for some reason.

I have no idea what to say to him.
 
Maybe he will notice the difference in looks and behavior of the one who is being treated. It is kind of a scary thing to treat your chickens and worry about dosages, cost and vets. Maybe it is just fear. :idunnoMaybe it is because he wants to be natural. I have a few friends who go the all natural rout- until they get into trouble, then it is whatever works or lose your pet.
Do you think he may be willing to do a fecal float- take a fresh sample of poop to the vet? It is about $25 and they look through a microscope to identify eggs and such. Do YOU have a microscope???!! I know my grandkids do...🤔

Just know that they pick up worm eggs form the ground where they peck and poop and you can understand how easily it gets passed unintentionally- no matter how clean and perfect you keep things.
 
New to chickens so I'm still looking to the farm vet for guidance. We had to put a girl down for multiple problems and I had her sent to the University lab for analysis. Among other things she has round and tape worms. The vet prescribed 1.1cc of Panacur for 3 days per bird. Thank God I only have 5 birds. They take the medication OK, but catching them is challenge. A plus to it all was the vet nor the university charged me for the analysis or even postage to send her to the facility.
 
Update: The hen that had worms is going well, just broody, but this morning he informed me that another hen(he doesn't know which) pooped and dead worms were inside. I warned him, but because of his stubbornness here we are. I follow everything you guys tell me and he still thinks his way is right, even though you Chicken lovers are EXPERTS!!!
I'm going to treat the entire flock now, with or without him. Wish me luck.
Wait until he gets ready for breakfast and cracks open an egg only to find a roundworm in his egg. I'll bet he'll worm the birds himself.

canvetj00180-0051-b.jpg
 
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New to chickens so I'm still looking to the farm vet for guidance. We had to put a girl down for multiple problems and I had her sent to the University lab for analysis. Among other things she has round and tape worms. The vet prescribed 1.1cc of Panacur for 3 days per bird. Thank God I only have 5 birds. They take the medication OK, but catching them is challenge. A plus to it all was the vet nor the university charged me for the analysis or even postage to send her to the facility.
Go out to the coop early in the morning just before sunrise while they are still on the roost. Then snatch them off the roost one by one and worm them.
If you still see tapeworm segments in feces after worming, buy a tube of Equimax equine paste and worm your birds with it. It'll kill tapeworms.
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Good morning @Harun
It sounds like she may be broody also and that is a another thing separate from worms.

Dealing with the worms is your first priority so let's address that. If one chicken has- assume all have, you just don't know it yet. Good you have Safeguard, do you have a syringe? The standard recommended dose- wish @dawg53 left that tidbit of dosing info- "Dose would be 0.23 ml per pound for 5 days" so an average 5lb chicken will need 1.20 mils directly dosed into her mouth. BUT, you have to dose her in a way that she does not asperate so divide your dose up into 1/4s and let her swallow in between. You will need to do this to every chicken for 3-5 days. Then repeat in 10 days.
Some people dose their chickens by putting it on their food, same 0.23 dosing applies be sure they get their dose.
IF you choose to do the (unrecommended) water method as I have been doing, it's 3 mils per gallon. Mix a gallon and dispense. I only put 1/2 gallon in my waterers at a time and remix and refill during the day when/if needed. This is also a 3-5 day repeat again with the 3-5 dose in 10 days.

If you are not planning on letting your hen hatch eggs you will need to "break her" of her broodiness. If you do plan to let her sit, she will be fine with treatment.
If you can, I have found it helpful to offer chooks some yogurt for their bellies after I'm done treating for worms to help restore their gut flora. Any yogurt or probiotic is a treat.

Good luck, glad you reached out, you got this!
 

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