Run to Outdoor Brooder Conversion -- Rush Job

Bottle caps work pretty good, I used a roofing nail to make holes.

These bottle cap washers and drywall screws have been up for 6 years.
Also shows how I made an awning.
(clamps are temporary..really)
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We went to Lowes yesterday and I got enough fender washers for this and whatever other small hardware cloth job might come up next (30 washers cost half as much as 100 washers so we bought 100).

The big problem I'm finding with this 2x2 construction is having nothing to fasten anything to -- not to mention the continual "If I had designed this from the start I could have ...." issues.
 
OK, DH has nixed the use of the blocks because he needs them to add more piers under our larger shed.

But overnight I solved the biggest problem -- I will put the hardware cloth on from the top down then cover the gap at the bottom with the 6" tall metal siding.

And DH suggested adding a 2x2 vertically to the center of the door to give me a surface to staple the narrow piece of hardware cloth to so that's covered.
I was reading thru about to recommend this.

You don't need us, except to say "way to go". You've got this.
 
My whole coop is made from 2x2's...plenty to screw into.

If I had designed it all that way and planned to have wood where I needed it, yes. And if there had been any plywood sheathing.

The good part is that once it's done I'll be able to add wheels (scavenged from a non-functional leaf sweeper so big enough for any ground flat enough to mow over), and use it as a tractor to work over my orchard.
 
I am almost done but my hand is almost done too.

I spent several hours constructing a pop door because I realized that we really could not add that while the coop was occupied and if I didn't have one I'd want it BADLY.

Got the tarp on and two of the awnings over the vent. I was surprised to find that sheet metal is only slightly harder to work with than Kevlar.

Seriously. It's only a little harder to cut and I used to hit Kevlar with a hammer to flatten out folds before I sewed them. (BTW, does anyone know of something to use to finish metal edges that can't be rolled and hammered? DH is afraid we'll all be getting cut on the awnings).

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Yes, this awning does interfere with the door a little. I had to hammer the flange out of it then rebend a narrower flange to screw through, but I wanted a drip edge so that I could get into the thing on a wet day without having so much water dumped down my neck.

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The other end, pierced to let the cord for the pop door through.

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Ugly, redneck awnings made from random chunks of metal off a remodeled shed are why we plan sufficient roof overhangs the first time, people. ;) :D The awnings on the long side will be more of the green metal like the baseboards.

Speaking of which, I did close that gap before adding the tarp.

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The wire goes around two strands of the hardware cloth including a corner and a strand of the interior chicken wire.

In addition to the 8" openings at the top, I included a vent in the door.

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And the tarp on the pop door end can be opened or closed various amounts. I even made a little porch with some bamboo poles.

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The porch was stable on a calm day, but I expect some more weight and bracing will be needed for more than a light breeze. Work in progress.

(If sheet metal weren't so hard to cut I'd be eyeing DH's roll of roof flashing that he had forgotten he had as crafting material).
 
Much progress made!

All awnings are on, I made a protected opening for the extension cord, put down the anti-dig skirting, put in some hooks for the heat lamp, and hung/tested said lamp.

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The awnings on the long side are the same green siding as the bottom skirt but hung inside out so I could use the bump as a flange.

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I cut out a 2-square x 4-square section of wire -- the smallest hole I could get the end of the extension cord through -- and wrapped it carefully with black tape to protect the cord.

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It's not the world's greatest anti-dig skirt, but better than nothing. (Yes, it was almost dark when I got that part done).

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I forgot to take a specific picture, but I repurposed the old, swivel board door latch to close up the hole for the cord. I haven't figured out how to secure it so that I can twist it when I want to twist it but a raccoon can't. Still, if nothing else it keeps the cord from rubbing on even taped wire edges.

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At 60 degrees ambient the 100w bulb held 90F with the thermometer on cold ground.

Tomorrow I'll bed the ground with shavings over straw, add the equipment, and run the 150w bulb overnight to get everything warm and toasty for the babies' arrival on Friday.
 

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