Russian Orloffs

ashandvine yes mottled are black with white chips although I saw somewhere where they had a picture of one and called it spangled. Perhaps it's the same just black & white instead of Mahogany & white. Ah, BBR yes Black Breasted Red. I did mean a hatchery in Ohio (typo). Not sure if I know a Heather from Washington. Totally someone different.

skydancer28 your Orloff are a nice looking bunch. I have 1 or 2 similar to the one in the 4th pic from the bottom with all the white around the body, I think they're really nice like that. They all have a really nice short hooked beak as well
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I really like the look of the hen in back. There is a LOT of white on that chick but it could be pure. I would let it grow out either way just to see if it becomes splash or darkens up.
 
This pic reminds me of a question I had for the folks currently breeding. I'm wondering if you are using year old hens (vs say 2-3 yo) and if so, all other things being equal, are you choosing the hens with more Spangling or less? Or maybe more spangling but minimal white on the tips? Most of my research indicates they will get more white with each molt, I'm just wondering if anyone is finding a line where breeding a nicely spangled pullet results in too much white in the adults. Or maybe it really only matters if one wanted to show and then they would just show the bird when they were at their "optimal spangle".

My other question was wrt the Letters from Charlie Casper on the Orloff forum. He states "Some of the things Curtiss (Flannery) told me about breeding Orloffs were as follows: 1) Most Orloffs in the US are too dark. They should not be as dark as a Sussex; they should have more white, especially in the head (but not totally white)."
Was he indicating the spangled birds should be more of a medium brown/red base color vs a dark mahogany? Or that they should have more white/Spangling than a Sussex? Or both?
 
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Thank you, Alaskan and Julio. I think they look beautiful--of course, I am no doubt biased...;-)

My dilemma is how to choose what to keep, what to cull, and how NOT to base that on appearance only. I have now read in a couple of different places of people having problems with Orloff chicks and young birds dying, or of birds that have weak legs or show poor egg production. Diet? Genetics? This disturbs me. What's the use of pretty birds if they aren't hardy, disease-resistant and reasonably satisfactory for meat and/or eggs?

(Soapbox warning) This same issue comes up in just about every breed of domestic animal that has any sort of following. Up until a few hundred years ago, there were no breeds--or vaccines--or electric fencing to keep chickens in and predators out. There were "landraces" that developed in their local geographic regions due to their ability to survive the cultural and environmental demands placed upon them. When you take a landrace and seek to stabilize it as a breed without continuing to subject it to the same parameters in which it developed, you will change the landrace. You impose your demands--be that a standard in color, an emphasis on a particular size, or any other criteria that are important to you. Even if you--and by you, I mean anywhere from a single individual to a breed organization--have done your very best to come up with a good, sensible breed standard, two things are inevitable:

1. You will change the original landrace

2. There will be people who object to the standard.

So, I guess each of us has to decide for ourselves what is most important in our breeding program, and that depends on our needs. If I am breeding to produce good farm animals that can thrive in my region with the least amount of pampering, my birds are going to be different from those of someone living in Texas--or someone breeding for show and sale to other people who wants their birds to be as close to the established standard as possible. Neither approach is better or more correct. I admire the work of people in both camps. everyone loves seeing gorgeous birds at fairs and in photos. Vaccines and NPIP certification are important if you are selling to others. (Now stepping down from soapbox)

So, what do the rest of you advise in terms of non-negotiable culling points for Orloffs--besides crossbeak and duckfeet?
 
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So, what do the rest of you advise in terms of non-negotiable culling points for Orloffs--besides crossbeak and duckfeet?
Type is a non negotiable one for me. I'm asking color questions right now, but that's because that seems to be a gray area, and honestly, just something I find of interest. But I'd be just as happy with the UK standard where color is secondary (good way to remove the headache of a very difficult pattern to breed correctly). To me, there is no gray area in the type, if it doesn't have that game build/stance... It's just a bearded Sussex.

Because of my personal preference, I'm also closely watching activity levels wrt foraging. I've noticed the bulk of my ROs are very good foragers, but have noted a couple that seem to prefer hanging in the run; they are on the possible cull list. I may have nothing left to work with when I'm done but...I also won't have a giant feed bill and a bunch of pretty, non-productive yard art. On that note, I also plan to note who lays first, how often, etc.
 

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