I noticed some rusty orange poop in the coop today with my 6-8 wk olds. What does this suggest? Everyone is acting very healthy.
Rusty, orange poop
- Thread starter flytpm
- Start date
Last edited:
- Apr 11, 2009
- 1,436
- 55
- 171
You will have to read and study the information I am providing and see if any thing is viatle here
generally the rusty diarrhea is like the brown diarrhea given here
this info is on brown diarrhea and some help from a friend of mine
(1 did you ever worm them?
(2 do any of them not eat or drink yet?
(3 do you see any signs of blood in the manure?
can be slightly if first day
most times they only drink not eat
(4 for coccidiosis I like amproylium best generally corid
but most feed stores don't stock it
so she mentions sulmet
Nathalie Ross"
(1 coccidiosis
I think it might be helpful for you to know that coccidia are
very VERY hard to trace in a fecal. When I worked as a vet tech, it
was common procedure to go ahead and treat with a combination
antibiotic/antiprotazoan medication like Sulfa products (Sulmet being the most
common) based on symptom diagnosis rather than physical evidence of the
oocysts. This is less true of other parasites like roundworms and such,
but still true. Often vets recommend a routine worming program to kill
worms not found. Worms aren't always shed into the fecal matter, nor
are their eggs, but that doesn't mean they aren't up there chowing down
on your birds' food in the gut and leaving scars which make it harder
for the birds to digest feed in the future.
(2 worms
So, think about a twice a year worming program. My personal program is
to worm in the fall with Ivermectin, in the spring with either
Ivermectin or another BROAD spectrum medication like tramisol or worm-ex.
Note: I didn't mention piperazine. Piperazine is a one-worm wormer -
rounds only. You'll want to use it for your very first worming to decrease
the parasite loads (which are undetectable unless they're really very
heavy) to prevent the possibility of the bird going into anaphylactic
shock or being blocked. These two last dreadful things can happen if
there are parasites up there you don't know about, and you use a
super-wormer (like the 2 mentioned above) which kill everything all at once. So
do piperazine the first time, or with new birds with unknown histories,
then use the super-wormers from then on.
(3 gut bacteria
At 7 weeks, the babies are still in the
process of getting their gut bacteria in order. See, they're born
without any bacteria at all in their gut. So they eat at day 2, and put
food in there as a food source for themselves but also for bacteria.
Basically, it's first-come-first-serve for bacteria. If the bad ones get
there first, they take over and your birds get ill. IF there are some
good but mostly bad, the same thing happens. If you give your birds
probiotics (substances containing live beneficial bacteria) your GOOD
bacteria will have the advantage. Those good bacteria crowd out the bad,
make it impossible for the bad bacteria to live in anything but minimal
numbers, and thus help your birds to stay healthy. So I always
recommend giving probiotics weekly from week 2 til point of lay. Then I move
to once a month or as needed. You can use live-culture yogurt (1
teaspoon per 8 newly hatched, moving up to 1 teaspoon per point of lay
bantam, 1 tablespoon per point of lay large fowl - no more please). You can
also use powdered livestock probiotics (Probios dispersable powder
being my absolute favorite - it's the choice of exotic bird breeders, and I
also have hookbills).
Or, you can go to the human health food store
and pick up a human supplement like "acidophilus" (Lactobacilus
acidophilus), or a combination of acidophilus and B. bifidum sold to combat
yeast infections. The latter is a particular useful thing for a poultry
hobbiest to have. The addition of b. bifidum helps combat thrush.
Thrush is essentially a yeast infection that is common to birds because of
the way their crops store feed in wet conditions. Things tend to get
fungus and yeast there, and thus the yeast infection. That infection
goes throughout the bird's system and is really a mess, so that
bifidum/acidophilus mix is the best. Try to find a non-dairy liquid, and you'll
have the ultimate probiotic.
So, there are some options. I'd tend towards those. Also, if you're
prescribed antibiotics for your birds' infection, you'll want to give
PRObiotics daily during treatment. Antibiotics are unfortunately going
to kill the good bacteria which are having such a difficult time getting
established in y our babies as it is. The antibiotics will possibly do
as much harm as good, so combat that bad effect with probiotics. Try
giving them daily for about 3 days after the last batch of medicine.
(4 E.Coli
In case your babies are said to have an infection of E. coli (most
likely case) then you can try putting some vitamin E in their feed.
( GLH- advises using the 1000 mg capsules and putting in a wet mash for them to eat( use one capsule per bird treating and do this twice a day for a week)
Vitamin E helps fix E. coli overpopulations. You know what else helps fight
E. coli? Guess: b. bifidum. It secrets a substance that E. coli just
can't stand. See where this is going?
email me with any questions
Nathalie Ross, Houston, TX
generally the rusty diarrhea is like the brown diarrhea given here
this info is on brown diarrhea and some help from a friend of mine
(1 did you ever worm them?
(2 do any of them not eat or drink yet?
(3 do you see any signs of blood in the manure?
can be slightly if first day
most times they only drink not eat
(4 for coccidiosis I like amproylium best generally corid
but most feed stores don't stock it
so she mentions sulmet
Nathalie Ross"
(1 coccidiosis
I think it might be helpful for you to know that coccidia are
very VERY hard to trace in a fecal. When I worked as a vet tech, it
was common procedure to go ahead and treat with a combination
antibiotic/antiprotazoan medication like Sulfa products (Sulmet being the most
common) based on symptom diagnosis rather than physical evidence of the
oocysts. This is less true of other parasites like roundworms and such,
but still true. Often vets recommend a routine worming program to kill
worms not found. Worms aren't always shed into the fecal matter, nor
are their eggs, but that doesn't mean they aren't up there chowing down
on your birds' food in the gut and leaving scars which make it harder
for the birds to digest feed in the future.
(2 worms
So, think about a twice a year worming program. My personal program is
to worm in the fall with Ivermectin, in the spring with either
Ivermectin or another BROAD spectrum medication like tramisol or worm-ex.
Note: I didn't mention piperazine. Piperazine is a one-worm wormer -
rounds only. You'll want to use it for your very first worming to decrease
the parasite loads (which are undetectable unless they're really very
heavy) to prevent the possibility of the bird going into anaphylactic
shock or being blocked. These two last dreadful things can happen if
there are parasites up there you don't know about, and you use a
super-wormer (like the 2 mentioned above) which kill everything all at once. So
do piperazine the first time, or with new birds with unknown histories,
then use the super-wormers from then on.
(3 gut bacteria
At 7 weeks, the babies are still in the
process of getting their gut bacteria in order. See, they're born
without any bacteria at all in their gut. So they eat at day 2, and put
food in there as a food source for themselves but also for bacteria.
Basically, it's first-come-first-serve for bacteria. If the bad ones get
there first, they take over and your birds get ill. IF there are some
good but mostly bad, the same thing happens. If you give your birds
probiotics (substances containing live beneficial bacteria) your GOOD
bacteria will have the advantage. Those good bacteria crowd out the bad,
make it impossible for the bad bacteria to live in anything but minimal
numbers, and thus help your birds to stay healthy. So I always
recommend giving probiotics weekly from week 2 til point of lay. Then I move
to once a month or as needed. You can use live-culture yogurt (1
teaspoon per 8 newly hatched, moving up to 1 teaspoon per point of lay
bantam, 1 tablespoon per point of lay large fowl - no more please). You can
also use powdered livestock probiotics (Probios dispersable powder
being my absolute favorite - it's the choice of exotic bird breeders, and I
also have hookbills).
Or, you can go to the human health food store
and pick up a human supplement like "acidophilus" (Lactobacilus
acidophilus), or a combination of acidophilus and B. bifidum sold to combat
yeast infections. The latter is a particular useful thing for a poultry
hobbiest to have. The addition of b. bifidum helps combat thrush.
Thrush is essentially a yeast infection that is common to birds because of
the way their crops store feed in wet conditions. Things tend to get
fungus and yeast there, and thus the yeast infection. That infection
goes throughout the bird's system and is really a mess, so that
bifidum/acidophilus mix is the best. Try to find a non-dairy liquid, and you'll
have the ultimate probiotic.
So, there are some options. I'd tend towards those. Also, if you're
prescribed antibiotics for your birds' infection, you'll want to give
PRObiotics daily during treatment. Antibiotics are unfortunately going
to kill the good bacteria which are having such a difficult time getting
established in y our babies as it is. The antibiotics will possibly do
as much harm as good, so combat that bad effect with probiotics. Try
giving them daily for about 3 days after the last batch of medicine.
(4 E.Coli
In case your babies are said to have an infection of E. coli (most
likely case) then you can try putting some vitamin E in their feed.
( GLH- advises using the 1000 mg capsules and putting in a wet mash for them to eat( use one capsule per bird treating and do this twice a day for a week)
Vitamin E helps fix E. coli overpopulations. You know what else helps fight
E. coli? Guess: b. bifidum. It secrets a substance that E. coli just
can't stand. See where this is going?
email me with any questions
Nathalie Ross, Houston, TX
- Thread starter
- #4
Yes, it looks like the ceacal droppings. Thanks. I had no idea there was so much medicating to chickens. They're all 6-8 wks old and probably haven't been medicated except for 3 of them which got a weeks dose of Sulmet when I treated a 4th one which appeared to have Cocci ( he's doing great now by the way). So what do I need to do for them? 4 got Sulmet a wk ago and 4 more were born at Cackle Hatchery, don't know if they've been medicated or not.
I will leave the advice to some of the pros around here, as I have not had to deal with this (yet!!).
But the chicken poo picture guide is a great resource...I have it on my shortcuts on my 'puter, and have consulted it more than a few times (amazing how many kinds of chicken poo there are!!!
).
Good luck to you-I'll be watching to see what advice you get.
But the chicken poo picture guide is a great resource...I have it on my shortcuts on my 'puter, and have consulted it more than a few times (amazing how many kinds of chicken poo there are!!!
Good luck to you-I'll be watching to see what advice you get.
Similar threads
New posts New threads Active threads
-
Latest threads
-
-
-
Broody Jail! So proud of my husband's creation!
- Started by Dhkoenig
- Replies: 0
-
-
Tapeworm treatment questions- Started by 5crazies
- Replies: 8
-
-
Threads with more replies in the last 15 days
-
