Seasonal power cord through 1/2in HWC

How hard was it to put on?
The wood one was very easy because it's right at the door where the door opens, so I can reach round easily and hold the parts from both sides simultaneously. The one big mistake I made is that I did not lock up my chickens...and that's why, as aart noticed, the HWC hole is not lined up with the wood hole (it was supposed to be...). I was trying to measure, mark, and cut with multiple pullets on my head and with a rooster nipping my butt at random intervals...not the best decision I've ever made when I could have just locked them in the coop for a bit.

If installing either type of connecty thing away from the door opening, it won't be as simple. With a lot of messing about and accidentally pushign bolts out, I was able to mostly install the white outlet by myself but had to get my husband to hold it to tighten things up since there's no way I can reach both sides of it.

OK I'm very late to this party. LOL

Similar to yours this is how I would have done it. Easy to make, easy to install and protects the cord on both sides. You can make the hole in the hardware cloth rather large to fit the plug through with ease. Or the RV supply receplical.

When not in use, just remove cord. For the RV Supply Receptacle just make a blank or use a plumbing expansion plug.


This could also be used with this with the RV socket plug.
Oo that Cord Keeper thing is quite a nice design! The double panel approach also would stop the HWC pokey bit issue.
 
accidentally pushign bolts out,

That part is easy to control.

Two Methods:
  1. The trick is to make the holes, for the threaded part of the bolt, one drill bit size smaller. This way you have to actually thread the bolt into the wood and that holds the bolt from coming/being pushed out. You will need a bolt that has thread the entire length of the bolt. See image A. If you can't find any you can always use all thread. Cut to length. Use two nuts backed up to each other Image B and tighten. Use the outer nut only, to screw the all thread into the wood Image C. Image D shows that it will not come out.
  2. There are bolts that are called carriage bolts. On the side of the bolt head of the board you counter sink the hole one drill bit size larger. So when you tighten, the head of the bolt get pulled into the wood and jams. Now you can get some duct/painter's tape and tape it over the bolts to get them started.
The first method is way easier.

Image A
20231130_181127.jpg


Image B
20231130_180928.jpg


Image C
20231130_180924.jpg


Image D
20231130_180920.jpg



For both methods, using a bit of 3/8" rope (Purple and Grey in Image E, Yellow is the Extension Cord) helps you to not have to have the door open. From the inside, put the board where it goes. Insert one end of rope at the closest 1/2" square at bottom. Insert the other end at the closest 1/2" square at the top. Run the rope into the holes until the center of the rope is making contact with the board. It will hold it there. Form the outside, simply hold and pull both ends of the rope, pulling and holding the board to the hardware cloth. The vertical black line in center is the Hardware cloth. Last thing. The outer boards holes, drill them one or 2 sizes bigger. Makes it easier to place the bolts in the holes, just in case one of the bolts is not as straight as it should be.


Image E
Page-9.png



mostly install the white outlet by myself but had to get my husband to hold it to tighten things up since there's no way I can reach both sides of it.

The best for that would be to install the RV Power inlet plug onto a board and then mount to the hardware cloth. Using the same methods as above.

All and all I think you did the job and it works.


Oo that Cord Keeper thing is quite a nice design!
Thank you.


The double panel approach also would stop the HWC pokey bit issue.
Yes it would. Not totally necessary but rounding off the edges in the slots, would make it better. One more good thing about it is that, using the rope method of holding the board, you don't need bolts at all. Pre drill some screws, and put it together before hand, then take apart. Do the rope thing and just screw it back together and make a hardware cloth sandwich.

HWC pokey bit issue

One thing about that. I always try and cut at least one square LESS. That way I can bend that little bit of wire back the other way, around the other wire. Protects from pokies, and it helps to strengthen the opening.


20231201_011829.jpg
20231201_012046.jpg
20231201_012200.jpg
 
Last edited:
Do you have Link to this one?
It's one of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant...tlets-Powered-by-Hubspace-HPPA52CWB/315636835
It's annoying that it's yet another app to download to set the schedule on it (every brand of light or outlet seems to use a different one...), but, what I like about it is that if the power/wifi goes out, this device seems to sync with the clock correctly and go back to normal when everything comes back without needing any adjustment from me.

One thing about that. I always try and cut at least one square LESS. That way I can bend that little bit of wire back the other way, around the other wire. Protects from pokies, and it helps to strengthen the opening.
How do you get your HWC to bend smoothly like that?? Whenever I have tried that in the past to fold up the pointy edges it just snaps after about the 90-degree point and leaves a short but nasty little spike that's hard to get rid of without tiny snips.
 
it just snaps after about the 90-degree
I think that it maybe because I always bend it over the wire that runs perpendicular to it. Basically hooking it around the wire that crosses it. In this case it may be due to the wire being coated. I am sure it helps but I can remember a single time I have done this and the wire breaks off. Coated or uncoated.
 
Could also be the properties of the steel in the wire being used. Greater tensile strength (how much load the wire can hold before breaking) usually means more brittle wire and usually less ductile or bending ability. More ductile strength usually means softer steel and less strength.

I work in a mill that makes wire so I deal with this every day.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom