Seeking plans for 48 sq ft coop plus 98 sq ft run

Thanks so much, 3KillerBs! I'm in the Pacific Northwest (Salt Spring Island, BC, Canada) so we get lots of rain in the winter (and weeks of snow that past 2 years), but also drought and heat dome temperatures in the summer.

With that sort of mixed weather, especially if you're subject to high winds during storms, you'll want a flexible design with vents that are well-sheltered. Soffit and ridge and/or gable vents as your main ventilation with additional openings on the leeward side, perhaps with top-hinged covers, are a good option for your situation.

We'd like to start with 6 hens this year and then expand up to 12 in the future. Is there any issue with having a coop that's 'too big' for a little while?

The only time I ever hear people regretting a coop too big is when calculating the cost of the lumber. :D

The suggested numbers are usually considered minimums. Here's another article I wrote: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/over-sized-isnt-just-for-sweaters.77604/

I'd really recommend a walk-in coop for 12 birds.

Likewise.

Once a coop is too big for you to touch every wall from the access door it's best to make it walk-in.
 
Better with "too big" than too small - integration takes space, so more space you have to work with, the better.

I'd really recommend a walk-in coop for 12 birds. My coop is designed for 12 birds at 60 sq ft (with internal nest boxes that eat up space, so actual floor space is closer to 48 sq ft). Much easier to clean if you can get in and stand fully upright, vs having to lean in to clean out, though I understand if yard space is limited and thus elevating the coop is necessary for extra run space.
Thanks rosemarythyme! I know about cleaning the coop floor (we're planning on doing deep litter), but could you explain about cleaning the other interior parts of the coop? Our nest boxes will be exterior so I imagine all that will be inside the coop will be roosting bars? Do I need to have water and food in the coop if I have it in the run?
 
I do like the second plan. My own coop is about that size and I have been very happy with it. I have my nests one of the walls, but it is open underneath it. I also have quite a bit of protection in my run, so seldom do they stay in it.

I originally had a coop that you could barely stand up in, and it was really too small for a pitchfork unless you were careful. Love my coop that I can stand up in as I come in the door.
 
Thanks rosemarythyme! I know about cleaning the coop floor (we're planning on doing deep litter), but could you explain about cleaning the other interior parts of the coop? Our nest boxes will be exterior so I imagine all that will be inside the coop will be roosting bars? Do I need to have water and food in the coop if I have it in the run?
You're more likely to be doing deep bedding rather than deep litter in an elevated coop, as moisture needed for composting can damage the floor.

As a general rule you'll only be worrying about cleaning out bedding, however you may also find that you need access to scrape poop off roosts, retrieve eggs laid in the wrong spot, access sick birds or birds in need of treatment, etc., so to me those are all reasons to want easy access to every corner of the interior of the coop. Plus I'm speaking from the viewpoint of someone with back issues - I cannot easily bend down to do maintenance and had to do so for the first 2 years of chicken keeping because I had a tiny coop, so being able to stand upright and being able to use full length tools inside the coop makes a huge difference. Bigger coops also need less clean outs as a general rule, my coop only gets cleaned out once a year now.

Yes with external boxes the main purpose of the coop interior is to provide roosting space, but you may also find it useful to have enough space inside to be able to fit at least a medium size dog crate in there, whether to isolate a bird or to integrate chicks.

I do keep a dry feeder inside the coop in order to keep feed completely dry. Dry is the goal with coops. My waterer (and fermented feed bowls) are outside in the run.
 
(we're planning on doing deep litter),

You're more likely to be doing deep bedding rather than deep litter in an elevated coop, as moisture needed for composting can damage the floor.

Yes.

The two methods are often confused. Here is my article on Deep Bedding: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/using-deep-bedding-in-a-small-coop.76343/

Many people find that they like using Deep Bedding in the coop and Deep Litter in the run, especially if the run is not roofed.
 
You're more likely to be doing deep bedding rather than deep litter in an elevated coop, as moisture needed for composting can damage the floor.

As a general rule you'll only be worrying about cleaning out bedding, however you may also find that you need access to scrape poop off roosts, retrieve eggs laid in the wrong spot, access sick birds or birds in need of treatment, etc., so to me those are all reasons to want easy access to every corner of the interior of the coop. Plus I'm speaking from the viewpoint of someone with back issues - I cannot easily bend down to do maintenance and had to do so for the first 2 years of chicken keeping because I had a tiny coop, so being able to stand upright and being able to use full length tools inside the coop makes a huge difference. Bigger coops also need less clean outs as a general rule, my coop only gets cleaned out once a year now.

Yes with external boxes the main purpose of the coop interior is to provide roosting space, but you may also find it useful to have enough space inside to be able to fit at least a medium size dog crate in there, whether to isolate a bird or to integrate chicks.

I do keep a dry feeder inside the coop in order to keep feed completely dry. Dry is the goal with coops. My waterer (and fermented feed bowls) are outside in the run.
These are all such helpful points. Thank you so much!
 

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