Serama and Silkie hatching tips?

Can't find Thorn's thread on shrink wrapping?

I added moist paper towel to increase humidity. I actually dipped the lower part of the egg into 100 degree water to get it unstuck, and did a slow assisted hatch, chipping some off every few hours. Also put coconut oil on exposed membrane with a cotton swab.
 
Can't find Thorn's thread on shrink wrapping?

I added moist paper towel to increase humidity. I actually dipped the lower part of the egg into 100 degree water to get it unstuck, and did a slow assisted hatch, chipping some off every few hours. Also put coconut oil on exposed membrane with a cotton swab.
I thought shrink wrapping was caused by opening your lid too many times during hatch and has nothing to do with your incubation humidity but possibly with your lock down humidity?? :confused:

I will definitely look into it.
I really like my hovabator 1588. And my 1602N also gave good hatches (especially for the $ value was a great starter for me) but has now become a hatcher and I use the 1588 for incubation. It's OK to have more room than needed even though at first I thought I will never put 41 eggs. I haven't so far. But with my hatcher, now I can do staggered incubation and hatching where I set eggs every week if I want. Point being, there's always room for chicken math! :oops:

And Silkies chicks are sold out as fast as I can hatch at $9 each with a minimum of 3. It might actually start to cover SOME of my cost. :)
 
Is this the 1602N? Very reasonable price
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You’re able to do multiple batches that will hatch a week apart in the same incubator? That would be amazing. Especially when I start my breeding program.
Yes using two incubators, not one.

With the first incubator I set eggs. That incubator gets opened for candling. By 7 days I can usually tell those who are developing well. At that time, I can remove any non starters (which also make room for new eggs to be set... and set my next batch of eggs. And I can do that until my bator is full. Come day 18 for the first set, I remove them to the hatching bator for lock down where the humidity is increased and the action takes place. Setting 7 days apart gives plenty of time for my lock down clutch to finish up any late hatchers and get it cleaned out for the nest clutch to go into lock down. I always place paper towels to help contain the mess and it works really well. I just got my second incubator, so am just starting my "rolling" hatches (probably more accurate description than staggered). But many people do this and I expect my results to be excellent! And the nice thing is that eggs are most viable before 7-10 days, so no more holding eggs for as long as possible.

I would not try in the same incubator because of the differences in humidity needs. But I would buy my first incubator, get some experience under my belt and work towards a second hatcher maybe the following year. Well that's actually what I did but not how my intention started out. :)
 
I just set 7 on my brinsea mini advance, and have a farmers (something can't remember what it's called , styrofoam Bator) I live in the very humid Florida and did a 30-40 humidity till lockdown where I went to 70 and only hatched 2 out of about 8 valid eggs for some Reason
 
I just set 7 on my brinsea mini advance, and have a farmers (something can't remember what it's called , styrofoam Bator) I live in the very humid Florida and did a 30-40 humidity till lockdown where I went to 70 and only hatched 2 out of about 8 valid eggs for some Reason
That could be genetics, how they were handled before setting, dirty eggs, incorrect temperatures, pore (or inadequate) nutrition of the parent stock... so many possibilities!

Was it your first hatch?

Hope your 2 chickies came out perfect! :jumpy
 

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