Sevin??, Permectrin?? bad lice problem photos

cherylcohen

The Omelet Ranch
10 Years
Sep 18, 2009
5,357
47
271
SF East Bay CA
My poor little Mabel had lice and eggs all over her behind. She had black spots on her comb and wattle but I thought they were mud or a scab from a wound until i did a more thorough inspection yesterday. After alot of research on BYC I went to the store, got sevin 5% and cleaned out their run, pen and dusted with the stuff! I dusted the girls too.

I sure hated using something so toxic but she was suffering (or at least she told me!) I checked all the other girls but only found one other (out of 11) that also had lice but I dusted them all.

Now we are at day 2.....I've been doing some additional research and she there is permectrin II liquid. I'm sure there are a ton of opinions out there. Can you tell me what you think I should do next? Do I need to reapply Sevin? Should I switch to Permectrin II and spray on them (I'm not sure how to administer?) http://www.twincitypoultrysupplies.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=495

Can
we eat the eggs, or do I need to wait.
41441_mabel_butt.jpg

41441_mabel_head.jpg
 
You need to check things regularly and re dust at least one more time at 7 to 10 days.

Most of the insecticides will not destroy the eggs, the eggs will hatch, that is why you need to re dust at least once.

You should vary what you use every third use or so to stop whatever survives from passing on resistance to the chemical(s) you are using.
 
I always use Diatomaceous Earth (DE) I liberally dust my birds and coop at least once a month in and more often in the summer. IT WORKS, It's all I use and it's all natural!!!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatomaceous_earth

Diatomaceous Earth for Poultry
Diatomaceous Earth, consists of the micro skeletons of fossilised remains of deceased diatoms, which are a type of algae found in both sea water and fresh water.
Diatomaceous Earth has a wide variety of uses such as in filtration (drinking water filters, fish tanks and swimming pools), abrasives (it is in some toothpastes and facial scrubs), as an absorbent for liquids (like cat litter), and it is used in dynamite to make it more stable. Food grade diatomaceous earth is particularly useful to reduce internal and external parasites (such as Worms, Lice and Mites) in animals, including poultry.
The powder absorbs lipids from the waxy outer layer of mites and lice, which causes them to dehydrate and then die. For internal parasites, the abrasive microscopically sharp edges will kill many of the worms with regular use (it must be used daily for it to be effective) although remember there are also larvae in the bloodstream that won't be killed by diatomaceous earth. It is for this reason, I personally believe using a chemical wormer two or three times per year (I use Flubenvet although this isn't licensed for ducks in the UK even though I know many people who use it) to make sure.

Good poultry suppliers will sell food grade diatomaceous earth in tubs that can be used in the following ways as an organic approach to parasite control. Do not be tempted to buy industrial diatomaceous earth that is intended for other applications as it will have a different composition and may be dangerous to your health or that of your birds.

1. Removing lice and mites. Diatomaceous earth can be dusted between the feathers and onto the skin regularly. It can be added to dust baths which is particularly useful.

2. Added to poultry feed - daily use can result in fewer worms, less mortality and better feathering. There are many different trace minerals contained in diatomaceous earth that are beneficial to poultry. The dose that is commonly used in most animals from poultry to cats, dogs and even cattle is between 2 and 5% (follow the manufacturers recommendations) added to their feed.

Diatomaceous Earth is particularly useful if you keep poultry and is well worth having to help in the battle against worms, red mite and lice.

http://poultrykeeper.com/common-articles-to-all-poultry/health/diatomaceous-earth-for-poultry.html



Diatomaceous Earth: Great for Your Flock
Submitted by KT on Mon, 02/09/2009 - 17:30.
Many chicken keepers swear by diatomaceous earth (DE), as it provides a variety of positive benefits for both your flock and your household. Our flock has benefited from DE, and it has helped cut down the cockroach population in our house and yard.

Food grade diatomaceous earth:

Is a natural pest deterrent that is safe for you, your chickens, and other pets.
It keeps your flock healthy by killing ticks, fleas, and digestive worms.
It naturally keeps cockroaches and other pests out of your house, and away from your chicken feed containers.
It can provide your birds with valuable trace minerals, when added in small amounts to chicken feed.
It is good in the garden, as it will kill aphids and other pests naturally.
What is diatomaceous earth and how does it work?

Diatomaceaous earth is the fossilized remains of Diatoms, which are microscopic one celled algae with hard shells.
It kills bugs and unwanted pest by desiccation, which means it cuts their exoskeleton and drys them out. No nasty chemicals!
How do I use/apply diatomaceous earth?

Its a VERY fine powder, so sprinkle it where you need it: In your chicken coop area, behind or under major appliances, sprinkle a perimeter around your house and property, and around and in chicken feed bins.
You can use a homemade device to distribute it, or you can purchase an applicator.
NOTE: It is a very fine powder, so wear a mask when you apply it.
CAUTIONS:

Please use food grade diatomaceous earth only for your flock and your household, as other grades can contain chemicals which may be harmful.
Food grade DE contains very low percentages of crystalline silica, while non-food grade contains higher amounts. Crystalline silica is not good for your lungs (it's sharp and drying), so wear a mask even when applying food grade DE (just to be extra safe).
Where can I find food grade DE?

Call around to your local feed stores and organic gardening stores to find out if they carry food grade DE. (We found ours at the Gardeners Guild)
If you can't find it locally, it can be purchased online from a variety of retailers, but with shipping costs it is much more expensive. Just do a Google search for food grade diatomaceous earth.


http://urbanchickens.org/blog/diatomaceous-earth-great-your-flock
 
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theFox is right about repeting the treatment. If you find that you have a continuing problem, you can dip them all in a solution of Adams Flea and Tick dip. Mix as directed and submerse the entire bird, up to the wattles in the stuff. Do it on a warm day and let them out in the sun to dry. The smell lasts about a month, so you know you`re getting all the little suckers. You can spray your coop and run with it, too. Good stuff, used it several times for infestations.

Never used permectrin, but I have used Ivermctin Pour On with great success. You can`t eat the eggs for 3-4 weeks with internal chemicals, but you can with Sevin or Adams with no break........Pop
 
Hands down, Ivermectin is the best way to get rid of lice without traumatizing the birds, repeating the treatments and inhaling toxic dust...

Just a few drops applied to the bare skin at the base of the neck and you're done.

The product also deworms the birds and gets rid of mites - it's fantastic!

Keeps on working for months, too.

And you can keep eating the eggs if you want, as the product doesn't get into the bloodstream so very little could end up in the eggs (it's an oil-gland based poison, from what I understand).

Good luck!
 
WOOHOO, thanks for your advice everyone..

So based on applying the sevin yesterday, when should I do the Adams dip?

Do you know the percentages of adams to water (I'm guessing) or is it on the bottle?
 
When was the last time you wormed? If the have lice I would think they have worms. Of the three the pour on is the only one that works for worms and don't eat eggs for 10 days. Don't use the Ivermctin first it could kill your chickens if there are a lot of worms. Use something else not so strong first.
 
Haven't wormed in a few months

I don't think they have worms but I'm not sure how to check on that....why is it if they have lice they would also have worms
 

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