Shark snipers Wine dots NEW HATCHES and puppies 1/24/2011 update

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Here is an article at the start of the hatching section. Could any of these be the problem?

Sign: Dead embryos; 7 to 17 days of incubation; each embryo has egg tooth, toenails, feather follicles (8 days), feathers (11 days). Causes:


Improper incubator temperature, humidity, turning, ventilation. Low humidity increases abnormalities of aortic arches (13 days).

Contamination.

Nutritional deficiencies -- riboflavin, vitamin B12, biotin, niacin, pyridoxine, pantothenic acid, phosphorus, boron, or linoleic acid.

Lethal genes (>30 have been described).

Sign: Dead embryos; >18 days of incubation. Causes:


Improper incubator temperature, humidity, turning, ventilation.

Improper hatcher temperature, humidity, ventilation.

Contamination, especially from molds (aspergillis, etc.).

Fumigation too severe or too prolonged.

Eggs chilled in transfer, or transferred too late.

Broken shell -- pre-set, during incubation, or at transfer.

Nutritional deficiencies -- vitamin D, vitamin A, folic acid, or pantothenic acid, riboflavin, vitamin E, selenium, vitamin K, biotin, thiamin, vitamin B12, calcium, phosphorus, manganese, or linoleic acid.

Embryonic malposition; embryo fails to move into proper hatching position (see #21).

Embryological development accident. Failure to change to lung respiration and all intra-embryonic circulation, and/or to retract the intestinal loops and yolk sac. These and other changes are critical at this time.

Heredity -- lethal genes, chromosome abnormalities.

Twinning.

Hatcher opened too much during pipping and hatching.

Poor shell quality.

Breeder diseases.

Troubleshooting: Specific Problems
Sign: Not pipped. Full-term embryo, large yolk sac; yolk sac may not be fully enclosed by abdominal wall, may have residual albumen. Causes:



Inadequate turning, resulting in decreased embryonic membrane development and nutrient absorption.

Humidity too high during incubation or after transfer.

Incubator temperature too low.

Hatcher temperature too high.

Eggs chilled (e.g., at transfer).

Nutritional deficiencies.

Heredity.

Embryological development accident.

Breeder diseases.

Inadequate ventilation.

Prolonged egg storage.

Sign: Pipped. Full-term embryo, dead in shell. Causes:


Low humidity or temperature for a prolonged period.

Low humidity during hatching.

High temperature during hatching.

Nutritional deficiencies.

Breeder diseases.

Poor ventilation.

Inadequate turning during first 12 days.

Injury during transfer.

Prolonged egg storage.
 
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Kristen, I don't understand. Those babies were so healthy before lockdown. Everyone else who went into lockdown hatched. I just don't know.

And TSC should PAY YOU to take that one.
 
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Well like Luvins-my bator sucks bad-this hatch not so bad but usually bleaH..I lost both caps to holes by cleaning bators-forgot about caps and dogs must have got them??
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SO I tape them both until day 17-ish then rip tape off. I havent been on too terribly much as I have been a royal bizatch..I quit smoking! Its only been a few days but enough for me to want to kill people and be very snappy for no reason-fr the most part-that and I m eating like apig! I knew that would happen! SO for lunch I only bring almnds and yogurts so I dont OVER do it all dayy...

Oh. Blessings and strength to you, Nat. (And safety to your family...
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IMO, it has got to be the temp or the humidity...I calibrated the hygrometers when I started the last hatch...wrote on the hygrometer on how much it was off...calibrated it again...and it was in the opposite direction being off...(ex. 1st time had to subtract to get to 75%...2nd time...have to add to get to 75%....) The thermometers were digital...accurite...started with a new thermometer...with a probe...and it is reading higher than what the others are reading...I just need to figure this crap out...lol...
 
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Oh, please put pics up!! I can't wait to see what hatches from the eggs I won from Nava!!

Mine aren't pure RP...they are a mix of RP and Standard Bronze...I will take pics as soon as I am allowed to see them well lol
 
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Well like Luvins-my bator sucks bad-this hatch not so bad but usually bleaH..I lost both caps to holes by cleaning bators-forgot about caps and dogs must have got them??
hu.gif
SO I tape them both until day 17-ish then rip tape off. I havent been on too terribly much as I have been a royal bizatch..I quit smoking! Its only been a few days but enough for me to want to kill people and be very snappy for no reason-fr the most part-that and I m eating like apig! I knew that would happen! SO for lunch I only bring almnds and yogurts so I dont OVER do it all dayy...

Oh...yeah...that has got to be rough....yall are gonna think I am nuts...I smoked heavy 13 years ago....got preggo...stopped smoking....after had my last baby...I started smoking...but only at night...I still only smoke at night...during the day...I can't stand even the smell...

The water wiggler has been in there for about 45 mins...it is reading 100*....I will keep it in there a while and keep track of how high it gets...because something isn't right somewhere....I am just confused....the eggs will develop all the way and then most won't hatch...what is going on?

From what I've read, Mary, that could be a CO2 prob. I am not an experienced hatcher, but I've looked around some, especially after my first hatch, and it seemed that that could be a problem. I read that as the eggs near hatch, especially after we lockdown if we've been hand turning, oxygen is lessened in the bator. That is good in a way because it causes the convulsions/contractions that cause the chick to hatch, but if it gets too high, the chicks die just before hatch. So I don't know, but wonder if that could be the issue. Especially with a very full bator, it seems like it would make sense to me.

With the water wiggler, I took the air temp thermometers out and I only use the one because it makes me crazy watching the fluctuations in air temp. My air temp will fluctuate a good bit, but as long as the wiggler holds, I'm starting to get comfortable with that.
 
Mary,

I don't know. You have a commercial bator so I'm sure the vents are adequate if they are all the way open. Unless the bator is overloaded, in which case there's too much oxygen CO2 exchange in a confined area and the vent holes are not large enough to accomodate that. But for most of us, even if we overload to begin with, by the time we get to lockdown, it's no longer overloaded.

That's the only thing I can think of. I'm sorry I'm not more help. But you've had issues with lots of eggs from different places, I think. Is that correct? Have you tried a regular baby thermometer in there (rectal)? They are highly sensitive and will tell you if your Accurite is reading correctly. Won't be too good for humidity, but could help you dial in the temp. You could put it in the wiggler. And you can buy one for a couple dollars if you don't have one.

Oh, yeah, do the eggs pip then die, or die before pip usually? Most of mine are dying after pip it seems.
 
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