She said/He said Who's right? Who's wrong? No one!

[AmyLynn2374]

I'm glad to hear I wasn't totally out of my mind at 2 sq.ft. per bird.

I've read 2-4 in coop and 10 in the run. My only concern here is in the winter months. If I go with 2 foot it's fine as long as they are out in teh run during the day, but come the days of 3 foot snow and -30F they will be inside most likely and I don't want them cramped up day after day when they can't get out. I just really need to move to a warmer state....lol

It's a breed by breed thing some chickens just don't like being cooped up really and acted crowded even with 6 feet per bird.

Breed does affect housing.

Could be that your Stooges were late absorbing their yolks, and therefore not hungry until just recently. Amy and I have had recent discussion regarding the yolk absorption in relation to chicks starting to eat. I'd like to suggest a new experiment: When removing chicks to the brooder, take note of the fullness of their bellies, and their overall muscle tone. Are the bellies full, and the chicks have a "plump" "heavy" feel to them? Or do they have bellies that are not as full, and they feel a bit leaner, and lighter? I've done some reading in the past regarding how those leaner chicks don't fare so well in hatchery shipping, b/c they've already used their yolk reserves. So... I'm throwing out a suggestion that we do an informal study. It would be most easily done with smaller hatches, unless you had the resources for a divided brooder. Note how soon chicks from each group start feeding. See if there's any correlation between skinny/plump chicks and the time they start actively feeding.

 

[NTBugtraq]

Re: letting chicks mingle with the flock: I think a lot depends on your flock dynamics, amount of space available, and if you have plenty of places for the chicks to get away from the older ones. I integrated chicks last year at 9 weeks without incident. Started by letting them all out to free range together. Initially, the chicks were moved from brooder/tractor in the garage to same tractor outside in the yard. They were then let out to free range. Then moved into lower level of 8 x 12 coop where they had 4 x 8 partitioned off under the hen's loft. Then, I removed the divider. This year, I've found the integration to be more difficult between chicks with 3.5 week age difference (6 older, 22 younger) I had them in the above mentioned loft with a divider, then let the littles mingle with the bigs during the day when I was around to supervise. Started that about 3 weeks ago. Then, I gave them a very small run that is inside the big flock's run, and cut some doors so the chicks could come and go at will (Thanks Azygous for the idea) They've been doing great. Jack the roo loves his babies, and will tid-bit them. The hens give a bit of chase, and an occasional peck. One of the hens got into a serious altercation with a cockrel yesterday. I doubt that he'll go near her again! So, the littles are integrated (during the day) with the big flock at 6 weeks old. It would be a bit different if they were expected to roost together. Also, key is to be sure there are plenty of feeding stations. I also use lots of scratch during integration to give them something productive to do.

Thanks for the great insight and advice. My 4.5 week olds are now in a run that has a mesh wall between it and the main run, so they are seeing and hearing each other all the time. My hope in building it this way was that integration would be smoother. My plan is to move the young hens into the main flock the day before I take the young roos for processing. This should make it easier to catch the roos for crating. The young hens should be between 10 and 13 weeks old at that point.

Out of curiosity, I understand why chicks from broody hens are readily accepted, they've been there from day 1. My chicks are all from eggs from the laying flock...does that make them any more acceptable by the main flock?

 

[cppeace]

Thanks for the great insight and advice. My 4.5 week olds are now in a run that has a mesh wall between it and the main run, so they are seeing and hearing each other all the time. My hope in building it this way was that integration would be smoother. My plan is to move the young hens into the main flock the day before I take the young roos for processing. This should make it easier to catch the roos for crating. The young hens should be between 10 and 13 weeks old at that point.

Out of curiosity, I understand why chicks from broody hens are readily accepted, they've been there from day 1. My chicks are all from eggs from the laying flock...does that make them any more acceptable by the main flock?

No, not really. Chicks from broody are protected by the broody hen the first few days to acclimate and the chickens get quickly used to them. They don't know the difference between chicks hatched in an incubator from your flock or someone else's. Chickens can be down right cruel to smaller, different or injured chickens.

 

[RubyNala97]

NT:  glad you didn't take lasting offense!  Re: letting chicks mingle with the flock:  I think a lot depends on your flock dynamics, amount of space available, and if you have plenty of places for the chicks to get away from the older ones.  I integrated chicks last year at 9 weeks without incident.  Started by letting them all out to free range together.  Initially, the chicks were moved from brooder/tractor in the garage to same tractor outside in the yard.  They were then let out to free range.  Then moved into lower level of 8 x 12 coop where they had 4 x 8 partitioned off under the hen's loft.  Then, I removed the divider.  This year, I've found the integration to be more difficult between chicks with 3.5 week age difference (6 older, 22 younger)  I had them in the above mentioned loft with a divider, then let the littles mingle with the bigs during the day when I was around to supervise.  Started that about 3 weeks ago.  Then, I gave them a very small run that is inside the big flock's run, and cut some doors so the chicks could come and go at will (Thanks Azygous for the idea)  They've been doing great.  Jack the roo loves his babies, and will tid-bit them.  The hens give a bit of chase, and an occasional peck.  One of the hens got into a serious altercation with a cockrel yesterday.  I doubt that he'll go near her again!  So, the littles are integrated (during the day) with the big flock at 6 weeks old.  It would be a bit different if they were expected to roost together.  Also, key is to be sure there are plenty of feeding stations.  I also use lots of scratch during integration to give them something productive to do.

Regarding your difficult hatches:  I have to wonder if there is some infectious process going on.  You're buying a Brinsea?  Hope that solves the issue.  

You should take note of infertile eggs, b/c that indicates your roo is not getting the job done for what ever reason.  But, the infertiles should not count in your hatch rate IMO.  This would be one time (among many) when it would be good reason to do an eggtopsy at end of hatch.  No blood in an egg = no embryo development.

Could be that your Stooges were late absorbing their yolks, and therefore not hungry until just recently.  Amy and I have had recent discussion regarding the yolk absorption in relation to chicks starting to eat.  I'd like to suggest a new experiment:  When removing chicks to the brooder, take note of the fullness of their bellies, and their overall muscle tone.  Are the bellies full, and the chicks have a "plump" "heavy" feel to them?  Or do they have bellies that are not as full, and they feel a bit leaner, and lighter?  I've done some reading in the past regarding how those leaner chicks don't fare so well in hatchery shipping, b/c they've already used their yolk reserves.  So... I'm throwing out a suggestion that we do an informal study.  It would be most easily done with smaller hatches, unless you had the resources for a divided brooder.  Note how soon chicks from each group start feeding.  See if there's any correlation between skinny/plump chicks and the time they start actively feeding.

Lazy, I am thinking just as you are this morning. I am awaiting permission to share the chick portal door pictures. I thought this would be the perfect time to show them because they are so clever!! If the user allows me, I saved a couple images and I will post them.
Also, my hatch was a few days after Amy's. and I found what she said very interesting about the size of her chicks bellies. So I checked the 7 that I had hatch. All of them appeared to have just finished absorbing their yolk sacks at hatch. Big round bellies and the slightest openings at the navel. They did not eat immediately and I was not surprised or worried. But they did start drinking right away. The soonest a chick ate was about 8 hours after hatch.

 

[NTBugtraq]

Could be that your Stooges were late absorbing their yolks, and therefore not hungry until just recently. Amy and I have had recent discussion regarding the yolk absorption in relation to chicks starting to eat. I'd like to suggest a new experiment: When removing chicks to the brooder, take note of the fullness of their bellies, and their overall muscle tone. Are the bellies full, and the chicks have a "plump" "heavy" feel to them? Or do they have bellies that are not as full, and they feel a bit leaner, and lighter? I've done some reading in the past regarding how those leaner chicks don't fare so well in hatchery shipping, b/c they've already used their yolk reserves. So... I'm throwing out a suggestion that we do an informal study. It would be most easily done with smaller hatches, unless you had the resources for a divided brooder. Note how soon chicks from each group start feeding. See if there's any correlation between skinny/plump chicks and the time they start actively feeding.

I will see what I can arrange, but I am hoping for > 30 chicks out of the set that are currently in the bator, so it may be difficult to make meaningful analysis.

 

[WVduckchick]

NT: glad you didn't take lasting offense! Re: letting chicks mingle with the flock: I think a lot depends on your flock dynamics, amount of space available, and if you have plenty of places for the chicks to get away from the older ones. I integrated chicks last year at 9 weeks without incident. Started by letting them all out to free range together. Initially, the chicks were moved from brooder/tractor in the garage to same tractor outside in the yard. They were then let out to free range. Then moved into lower level of 8 x 12 coop where they had 4 x 8 partitioned off under the hen's loft. Then, I removed the divider. This year, I've found the integration to be more difficult between chicks with 3.5 week age difference (6 older, 22 younger) I had them in the above mentioned loft with a divider, then let the littles mingle with the bigs during the day when I was around to supervise. Started that about 3 weeks ago. Then, I gave them a very small run that is inside the big flock's run, and cut some doors so the chicks could come and go at will (Thanks Azygous for the idea) They've been doing great. Jack the roo loves his babies, and will tid-bit them. The hens give a bit of chase, and an occasional peck. One of the hens got into a serious altercation with a cockrel yesterday. I doubt that he'll go near her again! So, the littles are integrated (during the day) with the big flock at 6 weeks old. It would be a bit different if they were expected to roost together. Also, key is to be sure there are plenty of feeding stations. I also use lots of scratch during integration to give them something productive to do.

Regarding your difficult hatches: I have to wonder if there is some infectious process going on. You're buying a Brinsea? Hope that solves the issue.

You should take note of infertile eggs, b/c that indicates your roo is not getting the job done for what ever reason. But, the infertiles should not count in your hatch rate IMO. This would be one time (among many) when it would be good reason to do an eggtopsy at end of hatch. No blood in an egg = no embryo development.

Could be that your Stooges were late absorbing their yolks, and therefore not hungry until just recently. Amy and I have had recent discussion regarding the yolk absorption in relation to chicks starting to eat. I'd like to suggest a new experiment: When removing chicks to the brooder, take note of the fullness of their bellies, and their overall muscle tone. Are the bellies full, and the chicks have a "plump" "heavy" feel to them? Or do they have bellies that are not as full, and they feel a bit leaner, and lighter? I've done some reading in the past regarding how those leaner chicks don't fare so well in hatchery shipping, b/c they've already used their yolk reserves. So... I'm throwing out a suggestion that we do an informal study. It would be most easily done with smaller hatches, unless you had the resources for a divided brooder. Note how soon chicks from each group start feeding. See if there's any correlation between skinny/plump chicks and the time they start actively feeding.

(ovations are messed up again!)

I have about 100 linear feet of roost pole so all the birds are off the floor at night and whenever they want, and 20 nest boxes, and 8 feet of trough feeder plus a couple of hanging feeders. I think the key to high density is the availability of personal space within the space, and that means multiple levels (colonial vs ranch on the same footprint).

My girls only use one end of my roost pole. Why? There is enough room for all of them on the pole, but only a few get on it on one end and the others lay under them. I cannot figure out how to get them to use the whole pole!

 

[scflock]

No, not really. Chicks from  broody are protected by the broody hen the first few days to acclimate and the chickens get quickly used to them. They don't know the difference between chicks hatched in an incubator from your flock or someone else's. Chickens can be down right cruel to smaller, different or injured chickens.

+1

 

[scflock]

  (ovations are messed up again!)


My girls only use one end of my roost pole.  Why?  There is enough room for all of them on the pole, but only a few get on it on one end and the others lay under them.  I cannot figure out how to get them to use the whole pole! 

My girls only pen has 4- 8ft roost poles. They all perch on the highest one. My polish coop is huge, with 3 large roost poles. They all sleep outside on the A-frame perches I made for them to play on. Remember the old Bud Light commercials? Why ask why

 

[cppeace]

No, not really. Chicks from broody are protected by the broody hen the first few days to acclimate and the chickens get quickly used to them. They don't know the difference between chicks hatched in an incubator from your flock or someone else's. Chickens can be down right cruel to smaller, different or injured chickens.

Ps this is why I like ducks so much better than chickens. They rarely fight at all and easily accept new additions, even if the new additions are chickens, turkeys, geese or other completely different fowl.

 

[NTBugtraq]

I have about 100 linear feet of roost pole so all the birds are off the floor at night and whenever they want, and 20 nest boxes, and 8 feet of trough feeder plus a couple of hanging feeders. I think the key to high density is the availability of personal space within the space, and that means multiple levels (colonial vs ranch on the same footprint).

Yeah, I have to make some improvements inside my run. I have 10 nesting boxes right now in a 8' x 6' coop that stays open to the 24' x 8' run. I only have ~20' of roosts right now, 3 feeders and a heated trough for water. I can easily make the roosts 3 tiered, and double what I have, so that will get me to ~60' of roosts. I do have an idea of how to get the main run open to a mesh covered foraging area, but it means creating new paths to my mushroom logs and moving my pile of wood chips...sign, it never ends...