She said/He said Who's right? Who's wrong? No one!

[rossfam06]

Can I just say, hot woman with fish....awwweeesome

Well Thank you!!!!! My Hubby would have to agree with you!!! LoL!!!! Besides fishing....thats his favorite thing in the whole world!!! LoL!!!!

If it's genetic you don't want to breed it down the line

I would not kill it just sell it as a pet not a breeder. But I agree with you.

 

[NTBugtraq]

Totally agree Sc, treatment is for humans...

that sounded worse than I hoped...

I owned a 2 legged dog (lolz, I meant 3 legged). A farmer thought it was a coydog at 11:30pm and shot a leg off, $2500 later, it was recovering and lived another 14 years with 3 legs...she was awesome. But she wasn't mine...I inherited her at 13 years, and I didn't have to pay the $2500. If your goal is pet, please do what you have to, if your goal is breeding...you've just seen a strike better than any that it should never be bred...

 

[sideWing]

This is another example of why this thread was started. Personally, I would cull it, but if you don't want to do that maybe others can help

If they can eat on their own and lay eggs then I would keep them. No breeding of course. I know others would do more and that's ok with me too. I just plan on raising too many to give special attention.

Can I just say, hot woman with fish....awwweeesome

 

[scflock]

I wasn't touching that one

 

[AmyLynn2374]

Well, I have to say, scflock must have got his Brinsea so long ago he forgets what its like to set one up for the first time, or, he's one of those who reads all instructions before he starts anything. No slight intended sc...

So, I had the Brinsea Octo 40 Adv EX all assembled, except the automatic humidity pump...including setting eggs into the trays with the rails (not in the bator, but put into the trays). So then I move to manual #2...the humidity pump manual. It says put the supplied foam into the trays and inside the rails...lolz, so now I gotta take all eggs out. So I do that, brushing eggs against metal rails...never felt so feeble in my life. Of course I break an egg...darn. Put in all the foam they recommend, some eggs won't sit down completely into the rail, leave the trays out and start the unit to get it up to speed (run it for an hour or so).

After 2 hours, I had set the humidity at 45%...its reading 65%, and there's water on the counter-top its sitting on. The bator is on a 45 deg angle, and eggs are being kept from falling into the next rail only because the lid is stopping them. I call Brinsea.

1. So, they say the foam isn't necessary, especially if the eggs are sitting on the bottom of the tray. I take out 1/2 the eggs and I'm able to remove the rail foam so the eggs sit better in the rails.
2. Seems the Octo manual tells you to fill 2 channels with water, but when you have the humidity pump those channels should be dry...lolz. If you read all the instructions, you still wouldn't know that, cause its never stated. Brinsea U.S. support tells me this.
3. Paper towels at the end of the rails to keep the large end up in the air...not needed...after all a chicken doesn't brood over eggs standing on their pointy tip...she says; "Get rid of the paper towels" This means of course that you have to accept the clickity-click of eggs hitting each other as it turns...a sound I worry about...but I'm following instructions.
4. Brinsea manual says if the turner is making noise, zap it with some WD40...but no matter what noise that could possibly make, it pails in comparison to the noise the **** humidity pump makes every time it turns...which is a lot...at least for now. "Nothing you can do about that", support says.
5. Oh, and one feature I read about; a "cooldown period" of 2hrs every 24 which the bator will stop trying to adjust temperature or humidity to simulate a hen getting off the nest (which sounded awesome in the manual)...she says; "Don't use it, I wish it wasn't even possible to do it...we did side by side incubations and the one with the cool-down hatched 1 day later than the other, albeit with a 100% hatch rate"...ok, so that's not a difference with a stryofoam bator.
6. Brinsea manual offers 2 methods of monitoring the incubation; Humidity monitoring, or weight loss monitoring...and they say; "Of the two methods the most reliable is egg weight method and is recommended"...neither method includes drawing air sac size on the egg. I am not saying its a bad idea, only its not one of the two ways Brinsea recommends doing it. They show weighing on Day 5, 8, 13 and 18.
7. Dry hatch...no way according to Brinsea, 40-50% RH during first 18 days, 65% at lockdown. I've set mine at 45%.

So, I got 48 eggs set and am going to put up with the clicking of the eggs and the darn pump noise. I only wish the pump noise was continuous, cause then I could get used to it as background noise...but, whatever...

This darn thing better give me a 100% hatch rate on fertile eggs...but I gotta say, this start up was way harder because I bought their top of the line product...lolz...what a marketing concept.

Sc will agree no "dry" in the Brinsea. I also, because I know his experiences, don't recommend dry with Brinseas. It's one of the bators I put on the list of exceptions. As for weighing. Many people do weigh. I have no patience for something like that especially when I don't personally find it neccessary. I prefer monitoring air cells. That's the point of the thread to let people see differences in hatching so they can find what they are most comfortable with without ridicule from someone who thinks it should be done their way or you shouldn't be hatching.

Please don't misunderstand what I am going to say. I think its awesome that you want to find out if it was your incubation method that caused this...but in all things that include genes, there are rejects. Do not ascribe to yourself a fault because you can't find an answer.

I agree. Too many factors to place blame.

Totally agree Sc, treatment is for humans...

I have a special needs roo myself that has leg problems. He's beautiful and I'm positive his problems are due to the delayed development from hatch w/o proper temps, but I still wouldn't breed him. (Actually I don't think he could if he wanted to.) But, He's still my baby and I love him.

I would not kill it just sell it as a pet not a breeder. But I agree with you.

xs 2

 

[RubyNala97]

This is another example of why this thread was started. Personally, I would cull it, but if you don't want to do that maybe others can help

My personal opinion is that it really depends on the quality of life the animal will have. If its going to live a painful life then culling is the humane thing to do. Or if it can eat, drink, and be mobile, keep it as a special ed pet. I had a rabbit with bad wry neck. I was told to put him down but after a few rounds of antibiotics he was better, except his neck was permenately crooked. He was a sweetie though and lived a long happy life.

 

[scflock]

My personal opinion is that it really depends on the quality of life the animal will have. If its going to live a painful life then culling is the humane thing to do. Or if it can eat, drink, and be mobile, keep it as a special ed pet. I had a rabbit with bad wry neck. I was told to put him down but after a few rounds of antibiotics he was better, except his neck was permenately crooked. He was a sweetie though and lived a long happy life.

X2

 

[NTBugtraq]

My personal opinion is that it really depends on the quality of life the animal will have. If its going to live a painful life then culling is the humane thing to do. Or if it can eat, drink, and be mobile, keep it as a special ed pet. I had a rabbit with bad wry neck. I was told to put him down but after a few rounds of antibiotics he was better, except his neck was permenately crooked. He was a sweetie though and lived a long happy life.

Money available vs cost, money hoped to make vs cost, or just cost...pick one.

 

[RubyNala97]

Money available vs cost, money hoped to make vs cost, or just cost...pick one.

I definitely hear ya on that. But if it's just hobby then it's mostly cost anyway. It depends on the situation.

 

[FridayYet]

Well, I have to say, scflock must have got his Brinsea so long ago he forgets what its like to set one up for the first time, or, he's one of those who reads all instructions before he starts anything. No slight intended sc...

So, I had the Brinsea Octo 40 Adv EX all assembled, except the automatic humidity pump...including setting eggs into the trays with the rails (not in the bator, but put into the trays). So then I move to manual #2...the humidity pump manual. It says put the supplied foam into the trays and inside the rails...lolz, so now I gotta take all eggs out. So I do that, brushing eggs against metal rails...never felt so feeble in my life. Of course I break an egg...darn. Put in all the foam they recommend, some eggs won't sit down completely into the rail, leave the trays out and start the unit to get it up to speed (run it for an hour or so).

After 2 hours, I had set the humidity at 45%...its reading 65%, and there's water on the counter-top its sitting on. The bator is on a 45 deg angle, and eggs are being kept from falling into the next rail only because the lid is stopping them. I call Brinsea.

1. So, they say the foam isn't necessary, especially if the eggs are sitting on the bottom of the tray. I take out 1/2 the eggs and I'm able to remove the rail foam so the eggs sit better in the rails.
2. Seems the Octo manual tells you to fill 2 channels with water, but when you have the humidity pump those channels should be dry...lolz. If you read all the instructions, you still wouldn't know that, cause its never stated. Brinsea U.S. support tells me this.
3. Paper towels at the end of the rails to keep the large end up in the air...not needed...after all a chicken doesn't brood over eggs standing on their pointy tip...she says; "Get rid of the paper towels" This means of course that you have to accept the clickity-click of eggs hitting each other as it turns...a sound I worry about...but I'm following instructions.
4. Brinsea manual says if the turner is making noise, zap it with some WD40...but no matter what noise that could possibly make, it pails in comparison to the noise the **** humidity pump makes every time it turns...which is a lot...at least for now. "Nothing you can do about that", support says.
5. Oh, and one feature I read about; a "cooldown period" of 2hrs every 24 which the bator will stop trying to adjust temperature or humidity to simulate a hen getting off the nest (which sounded awesome in the manual)...she says; "Don't use it, I wish it wasn't even possible to do it...we did side by side incubations and the one with the cool-down hatched 1 day later than the other, albeit with a 100% hatch rate"...ok, so that's not a difference with a stryofoam bator.
6. Brinsea manual offers 2 methods of monitoring the incubation; Humidity monitoring, or weight loss monitoring...and they say; "Of the two methods the most reliable is egg weight method and is recommended"...neither method includes drawing air sac size on the egg. I am not saying its a bad idea, only its not one of the two ways Brinsea recommends doing it. They show weighing on Day 5, 8, 13 and 18.
7. Dry hatch...no way according to Brinsea, 40-50% RH during first 18 days, 65% at lockdown. I've set mine at 45%.

So, I got 48 eggs set and am going to put up with the clicking of the eggs and the darn pump noise. I only wish the pump noise was continuous, cause then I could get used to it as background noise...but, whatever...

This darn thing better give me a 100% hatch rate on fertile eggs...but I gotta say, this start up was way harder because I bought their top of the line product...lolz...what a marketing concept.

Ummm, I think it's a great incubator and there are some great threads on how to work with in in different situations. (A quick search on BYC would have told you that the Brinsea manual is seriously lacking! But I read the whole thing anyways.) I didn't think set-up was that hard.

I started with a lot of shipped eggs, so I didn't use the rails and just staggered the eggs while keeping them fat side up. Used a paper towel here and there for stability. Kind of like the picture SC showed. As I pulled quitters on candling days, I put in a few rails here and there. If you are using local eggs, laying them down is fine. Play with the little foam strips a bit - If you cushion the eggs, you won't have them clicking against the rails.

Humidity is super low here, so I half filled one channel so the humidity pump wouldn't have to work so hard to keep it at 40%. Filled them both at lockdown. That way the humidity pump came on WAY less often, but still maintained humidity where I wanted.

Whether you have a top of the line incubator or an inexpensive styrobator, hatching is an art, not a science. A great machine will up your odds of a great hatch, but it's not a miracle worker and you still need to adapt your technique to your own situation. I truly believe that some people here on BYC know much more than the helpdesk answering the phone at Brinsea!