Shipped eggs with scrambled air cells

Weeg

Enabler
Jul 1, 2020
11,906
37,002
1,021
Small town in Western Washington
My Coop
My Coop
Just got my 15 Serama eggs today! I'm very excited to start incubating, and am very excited about this breed. I'm giving 7 to my broody and putting 8 in the incubator. I ordered them from a small, NPIP certified Organic family farm so I felt good about my purchase. I've had overall bad experiences with shipped eggs in the past, but before I understood the risks, I ordered 3 different breeds from Ebay, a BYC member, and Etsy. I had the breeder hold the Serama's for me until after our big vacations to the beach, so finally got them today.
Of course, I didn't notice that they were coming from Florid until after I purchased them so why would I expect anything more then scrambled air cells. They were packed really well, and I was actually surprised that only 50% had scrambled air cells. There were actually a few that had perfectly intact cells. I've marked the best ones to go under my broody, but the ones packed closer to the top of the box look pretty bad.
In one, and air cell seems to disappear, and then budge out as I turn the egg around. I'll try to upload a video. I also noticed that in one, I could see what could be an air cell moving around the entire egg, or a detached air cell. I couldn't' tell if that was just the yolk I was seeing or not, but it looked more pronounced than the yolk I guess. I'll try to get a video, but I don't think my camera will focus enough to get a clear shot.
Anyway, my questions are-
I have a NR360 incubator which lays the eggs on their sides. With scrambled eggs your supposed to stand them up. I could stand them up in egg cartons, but then I'de have to manually turn them and I'm not home consistently enough to turn them correctly. Any other advice on hatching scrabbled air cell eggs is very helpful. Thanks everyone!
 
I'm incubating my very first shipped eggs right now as well. With that in mind, no experience, I've concluded that shipped eggs should be handled as delicately as possible, so I've opted to incubate mine (NR360 as well) for the first 4 days in a carton upright, and I've been hand turning since then.

I'm just wondering why you're choosing to give half to the broody?
 
I've incubated a fair number of shipped eggs of different kinds over the years, and, most recently, incubated goose eggs and have a batch of chicken eggs in right now. USPS has been noticeably rougher on shipments over the past couple of years, and the eggs received this year had saddled and detached air cells as well as cracks, despite being responsibly packed. 😕

I used Hova-Bators for the goose eggs and Brinseas for the chicken, so I can't really advise regarding your NR360. What I did was let the eggs settle for 24 hours after bringing them home, then I set them upright in cartons for 72 more hours without turning. I think minimizing movement, especially in the first few days, is very important for damaged eggs, but trying to get the air cell in the correct position is also important.

How about leaving them upright for the first 3 days (no turning) and then laying them on their sides if the air cells look better? I started the autoturner on day 4 and the air cells in the damaged ones seem to be ok - not normal, but in the right place, at least.

I got 1 gosling to hatch (of 2 eggs that began to develop - 1 quit halfway through). The chicken eggs are only about a week in but are still plugging along, including one with cracks that I covered in Liquid Bandage. 🤞

Best of luck!
 
I would stick the best eggs in the incubator. The NR360 is great and with the eggs being in good shape you should get good hatch rates. The ones with dislodged air cells(worse than saddle-shaped, it means the air bubble has ruptured the outer, possibly even the inner membrane, if the egg starts "sweating" little yellow drops then the inner membrane ruptured) will have a 20% hatch rate so these I would give to the broody considering she knows how to handle the turning best but also because broody's can be unreliable and might abandon the eggs, you don't want that happening to your best eggs. If she can improve on 20% that would be great but the NR360 won't so nothing to lose but to give the broody the less reliable ones.

Ps: remove any that do start sweating, they won't make it and are a contamination risk.
 
I'm incubating my very first shipped eggs right now as well. With that in mind, no experience, I've concluded that shipped eggs should be handled as delicately as possible, so I've opted to incubate mine (NR360 as well) for the first 4 days in a carton upright, and I've been hand turning since then.

I'm just wondering why you're choosing to give half to the broody?
I'm giving half to the broody because she's such a good mom. She's hatched multiple clutches of eggs in the past, and nannied another hens eggs after she gave up half way through incubation.
Plus, I honestly think that chicks are cuter when a broody hatched them. She likes me as well, so I'll be able to the candle eggs, etc, etc. Thought since I was getting eggs anyway, I'de give some to her since I know she'll do a good job.
 
I've incubated a fair number of shipped eggs of different kinds over the years, and, most recently, incubated goose eggs and have a batch of chicken eggs in right now. USPS has been noticeably rougher on shipments over the past couple of years, and the eggs received this year had saddled and detached air cells as well as cracks, despite being responsibly packed. 😕

I used Hova-Bators for the goose eggs and Brinseas for the chicken, so I can't really advise regarding your NR360. What I did was let the eggs settle for 24 hours after bringing them home, then I set them upright in cartons for 72 more hours without turning. I think minimizing movement, especially in the first few days, is very important for damaged eggs, but trying to get the air cell in the correct position is also important.

How about leaving them upright for the first 3 days (no turning) and then laying them on their sides if the air cells look better? I started the autoturner on day 4 and the air cells in the damaged ones seem to be ok - not normal, but in the right place, at least.

I got 1 gosling to hatch (of 2 eggs that began to develop - 1 quit halfway through). The chicken eggs are only about a week in but are still plugging along, including one with cracks that I covered in Liquid Bandage. 🤞

Best of luck!
Thank you for this info! It's much appreciated. Since I got them last night they've been sitting upright in egg cartons, I think for about 11 hours now? That makes sense, they don't need turning for the first few days anyway. I'll plan on that.
For the broody, should I give her the 7 eggs after the initial 3 days of upright incubation as well?
I hope your hatch goes well! I'm hoping with the 15 eggs I'll get at least 3 lol! Thats my goal and a lot of the air cells looked alright, so we'll see how they do. Thanks again!
 
I would stick the best eggs in the incubator. The NR360 is great and with the eggs being in good shape you should get good hatch rates. The ones with dislodged air cells(worse than saddle-shaped, it means the air bubble has ruptured the outer, possibly even the inner membrane, if the egg starts "sweating" little yellow drops then the inner membrane ruptured) will have a 20% hatch rate so these I would give to the broody considering she knows how to handle the turning best but also because broody's can be unreliable and might abandon the eggs, you don't want that happening to your best eggs. If she can improve on 20% that would be great but the NR360 won't so nothing to lose but to give the broody the less reliable ones.

Ps: remove any that do start sweating, they won't make it and are a contamination risk.
This is a good point actually. She's a really good broody, hatched multiple eggs in the past etc, so I don't think she'll quit, but your totally right that you never know.
I think this is a good idea. Thank you!
Today they'll go in the incubator upright in egg cartons, and then at the 3 day mark I'll transfer then to Sunshine. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to stick then right under her and she'll except them, but I'll test with an incubated egg first.
Thanks everyone for the advice!
 
I would stick the best eggs in the incubator. The NR360 is great and with the eggs being in good shape you should get good hatch rates. The ones with dislodged air cells(worse than saddle-shaped, it means the air bubble has ruptured the outer, possibly even the inner membrane, if the egg starts "sweating" little yellow drops then the inner membrane ruptured) will have a 20% hatch rate so these I would give to the broody considering she knows how to handle the turning best but also because broody's can be unreliable and might abandon the eggs, you don't want that happening to your best eggs. If she can improve on 20% that would be great but the NR360 won't so nothing to lose but to give the broody the less reliable ones.

Ps: remove any that do start sweating, they won't make it and are a contamination risk.
The ones that start sweating in my experience usually is a cause of bacteria entering through the egg or just an old egg. I didn't know that a scrambled egg would do that.
 
The ones that start sweating in my experience usually is a cause of bacteria entering through the egg or just an old egg. I didn't know that a scrambled egg would do that.
Same here. I've always hear of sweating being from an egg that quit but is still being incubated. I've never heard of a scrambled egg do that. I'll still keep an eye out for it though.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom