The peeping Azygous is talking about is a very plaintive peep. The chick just stands around giving this constant soul-rending peep. It is quite different from the normal peeping healthy active chicks give. If you don’t recognize it, you don’t have it. It’s that sad.
By 8 days you should be getting toward the end of the worst part of that risky “fail-to-thrive” period. Some chicks are just deficient at hatch, there is something wrong with them and they are not meant to make it. It’s still possible something could be wrong, but by 8 days they have long ago used up the yolk they absorbed before hatch and have to be eating and drinking or they would already be dead.
Different chicks naturally have different levels of activity, just like different people. But if a chick, or in the future a full grown chicken, is lethargic feeding them something to raise their energy levels is a good thing. I’ve used hummingbird liquid for that. Give them something to provide quick energy to see if they can shake it off. From here it is hard to say if that chick needs help or not, but it won’t hurt.
We all approach Coccidiosis in different ways. It is a killer. It’s caused by a “bug” that lives in the ground and thrives in warm moist soil, especially of manure is present. Manure is always present in our brooders, coops, and runs. It’s more of a thread in warm moist climates like the Gulf Coast and less a threat in cooler drier climates, but all you need is a damp spot around a waterer and you are at risk, especially in a warm brooder. That “bug’s” life cycle needs a couple of days in warm wet soil or dirty water to be dangerous. Totally dumping the water every two days minimum is really important if they can poop or scratch pop in the water. That depends on your type of waterer. Dumping daily is better. Clean water is important.
The bug lives in the chicken’s digestive system, different strains living in different parts which makes some strains more dangerous than others. Having a few in their system is a good thing, they will develop immunity to that strain in two to three weeks of constant exposure. The problem comes in when the numbers in their system get out of hand. The normal problem comes when the bug is present, water is not changed out or the brooder, coop, or run is really wet, and the number of bugs really grows. The chickens eat those bugs’ eggs (not really eggs but close enough) and the eggs hatch inside and numbers explode.
Normally if you keep the brooder dry and keep the water clean Cocci is not a problem. That’s how I manage it and I don’t have a problem, but even then some people do because of the strain of the bug they have.
I do something else. Starting the second day in the brooder, I feed them dirt from the run where the older birds have pooped. This gets grit and any probiotics the older birds have into them, plus it exposes them to the strain of Cocci I have. With them in the dry brooder mine don’t get sick but by feeding them more dirt every few days the constant exposure allows them to develop the immunity they need. When they hit the ground they are already immune.
I don’t feed medicated feed. There is nothing wrong with medicated feed, at least feed where the medication is Amprolium, you can check the label to see what your medicine in medicated feed actually is. Amprolium in this dosage does not kill the bug, it hinders its reproduction. It helps keep the numbers down so the chick can develop immunity but not be overwhelmed by the numbers. It’s still possible for the chick to be in danger from Cocci even with medicated feed, especially if you have dirty water or a wet brooder, but it really helps.
Medicated feed only does you good if that bug is present. If that bug is not present it won’t hurt anything but it won’t help anything either, it’s just a waste. A pretty common occurrence on this forum is someone feeds medicated feed in the brooder where the bug is not present, then stops feeding it when the chicks leave the brooder and hit the ground where the bug is present. Most of the time this isn’t a problem, but if the ground is wet and warm the chicks can get Cocci and even die. Then people will rant about how medicated feed doesn’t work. Medicated feed works great but like any tool it has to be used properly.
I have nothing against medicated feed, I just don’t need it the way I raise my chicks. Hopefully this will help you make an informed decision on whether medicated feed is right for you.
Good luck with that chick.
By 8 days you should be getting toward the end of the worst part of that risky “fail-to-thrive” period. Some chicks are just deficient at hatch, there is something wrong with them and they are not meant to make it. It’s still possible something could be wrong, but by 8 days they have long ago used up the yolk they absorbed before hatch and have to be eating and drinking or they would already be dead.
Different chicks naturally have different levels of activity, just like different people. But if a chick, or in the future a full grown chicken, is lethargic feeding them something to raise their energy levels is a good thing. I’ve used hummingbird liquid for that. Give them something to provide quick energy to see if they can shake it off. From here it is hard to say if that chick needs help or not, but it won’t hurt.
We all approach Coccidiosis in different ways. It is a killer. It’s caused by a “bug” that lives in the ground and thrives in warm moist soil, especially of manure is present. Manure is always present in our brooders, coops, and runs. It’s more of a thread in warm moist climates like the Gulf Coast and less a threat in cooler drier climates, but all you need is a damp spot around a waterer and you are at risk, especially in a warm brooder. That “bug’s” life cycle needs a couple of days in warm wet soil or dirty water to be dangerous. Totally dumping the water every two days minimum is really important if they can poop or scratch pop in the water. That depends on your type of waterer. Dumping daily is better. Clean water is important.
The bug lives in the chicken’s digestive system, different strains living in different parts which makes some strains more dangerous than others. Having a few in their system is a good thing, they will develop immunity to that strain in two to three weeks of constant exposure. The problem comes in when the numbers in their system get out of hand. The normal problem comes when the bug is present, water is not changed out or the brooder, coop, or run is really wet, and the number of bugs really grows. The chickens eat those bugs’ eggs (not really eggs but close enough) and the eggs hatch inside and numbers explode.
Normally if you keep the brooder dry and keep the water clean Cocci is not a problem. That’s how I manage it and I don’t have a problem, but even then some people do because of the strain of the bug they have.
I do something else. Starting the second day in the brooder, I feed them dirt from the run where the older birds have pooped. This gets grit and any probiotics the older birds have into them, plus it exposes them to the strain of Cocci I have. With them in the dry brooder mine don’t get sick but by feeding them more dirt every few days the constant exposure allows them to develop the immunity they need. When they hit the ground they are already immune.
I don’t feed medicated feed. There is nothing wrong with medicated feed, at least feed where the medication is Amprolium, you can check the label to see what your medicine in medicated feed actually is. Amprolium in this dosage does not kill the bug, it hinders its reproduction. It helps keep the numbers down so the chick can develop immunity but not be overwhelmed by the numbers. It’s still possible for the chick to be in danger from Cocci even with medicated feed, especially if you have dirty water or a wet brooder, but it really helps.
Medicated feed only does you good if that bug is present. If that bug is not present it won’t hurt anything but it won’t help anything either, it’s just a waste. A pretty common occurrence on this forum is someone feeds medicated feed in the brooder where the bug is not present, then stops feeding it when the chicks leave the brooder and hit the ground where the bug is present. Most of the time this isn’t a problem, but if the ground is wet and warm the chicks can get Cocci and even die. Then people will rant about how medicated feed doesn’t work. Medicated feed works great but like any tool it has to be used properly.
I have nothing against medicated feed, I just don’t need it the way I raise my chicks. Hopefully this will help you make an informed decision on whether medicated feed is right for you.
Good luck with that chick.
