Should I medicate my whole flock if so......

[the3ofus+oursixchicks]

If you have a death in your flock that you know was a respraitory infection, should you medicate your whole flock? If so with what? Also, how can you tell if you need to worm your flock?

 

[Judy]

The respiratory infections that chickens get are mostly viral and not curable. If I knew a bird had died of one, I would have a necropsy done to find out the cause of death. I might cull the flock. I would at least keep a closed flock -- no birds or hatching eggs ever leave the property.

It is very likely that your flock has at least some worms since you live in a warm, moist climate and they are in the soil. Some vets will do a fecal exam if you bring a sample, although a negative test may not mean they don't have worms.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ps044

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/715540/sneezing-coughing-and-now-a-buggery-nose-on-my-roo/0_20

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...ll-seeing-live-worms-in-poo/0_20#post_9315842

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/40141/link-find-your-state-vet-for-a-necropsy/0_20

 

[BantamLover21]

If you have a death in your flock that you know was a respraitory infection, should you medicate your whole flock? If so with what? Also, how can you tell if you need to worm your flock?

If you decide to treat the respiratory disease (some diseases will always be in your flock, so some people choose to cull infected flocks), then I would recommend treating the entire flock. A broad-spectrum antibiotic like Oxytetracycline (sold under names like Tetroxy HCA-280, Terramycin, and Duramycin) or Tylan soluble would be the best choice. Both antibiotics are generally available at livestock supply stores, with prices ranging from $8-$30.

The Oxytetracycline dosage is 1/2 teaspoon powdered Oxytetracycline per quart of drinking water for 7-14 days. Do not use Apple Cider Vinegar in the water, or give probiotics/dairy products during treatment; vitamins/electrolytes are fine. Improvement (if there is going to be any) is usually seen after 3-5 days of treatment, but if you do not continue the treatment for the entire recommended time, the disease may reappear. I don't know the Tylan soluble dosage, but I'm pretty sure that you can find it easily by searching BYC and/or the Internet.

As for worms--if your flock gets outside at all, and/or eats insects, it is likely that they have worms. This can be confirmed by sending a fecal sample to a vet, or you can simply worm as a preventative measure. Some good wormers include Valbazen, SafeGuard (its sold for goats), and the Worminator. Don't use Wazine or Ivermectin, as they are only effective on a few types of worms. Most wormers can be purchased at a livestock supply store, and the Worminator can be ordered online from here: http://www.twincitypoultrysupplies.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=584

 

[cafarmgirl]

As far as treating the remainder of the flock for whatever respiratory bug this was....I'd take a wait and see approach. If they are not showing any signs or symptoms of illness then it is pointless to give them antibiotic's. Most poultry respiratory diseases are viral in nature, antibiotic's won't cure them and the only reason you give them is because these diseases so easily morph right into pneumonia and secondary bacterial infections. So if you start having other birds start showing symptoms then I'd start treating on a case by case basis. With antibiotic's and care they will usually survive the disease but in most cases will remain carriers of whatever it is.

And while some people recommend culling an entire flock I disagree somewhat, depending on what it is they have. These diseases are many, they are prevalent and easily spread. You could potentially cull flock after flock if you take the stance that you need to clear your coop every time a bird comes down with something. We have weathered an outbreak of infectious bronchitis in our flock two years ago. The birds all survived and have been fine ever since. However some diseases are worse and may tend to crop up over and over again. Just have to see how it goes and base your decision on that.

I won't repeat all the good info already posted re worms except to say that the way to tell if you need to worm your chickens is if their feet touch the ground!

In all seriousness, unless your birds are kept up in wire cages they are going to come in contact with worms in the environment at some point.

 

[the3ofus+oursixchicks]

I have no plans on culling anyone. Nobody else is showing signs of sickness. They are pets so, there will be no culling. I do plan to worm because their feet do touch the ground

. They free range most of the time. I hate cages and pens but they do have to be in the pen from time to time. What are the symptoms of having worms? Thanks for all the good advice. I wasn't being a smartie about culling that's just not an option in my particular case

. Unless they are all sick and its really bad.

 

[casportpony]

Safeguard and Panacur are both 10% fenbendazole and you would use the same amount of paste or liquid. I use fenbendazole (Safeguard or Panacur) at .5ml per 2.2 pounds (50mg/kg) and repeat in 10 days.

The most effective albendazole (Valbazen) dose is 20mg/kg (~.2ml per 2.2 pounds) and repeat in ten days.














-Kathy