It's quite possible that your chicks picked up an infection during incubation or while hatching.
-Kathy
-Kathy
Last edited:
should my new chicks b acive
- Thread starter krystala
- Start date
Omphalitis
Also known as
Mushy Chick Disease
&
Yolk Sack infection
Omphalitis is a common cause of death in chicks during the first week of life and most common with artificially hatched chicks. It is a bacterial infection of the yolk sac. Various bacteria may be involved in yolk sack infection,
E.coli, Staphylococci, Proteus, Clostridia, fecalis and Pseudomonas.
Understanding the yolk sack
Growth of a chick begins in the small fertilized area at the top of the yolk. A network of blood vessels begins to develop spreading from the embryo out over the yolk. The yolk sac is attached to the chick's navel and the chick draws nourishment from it, producing an enzyme that changes the yolk material so that it can be used as a food by the developing embryo. As the chick hatches any remaining unused yolk is drawn into the chick’s abdomen or “navel”. It will supply nourishment for the chicks first few days after hatching.
CAUSES
~ Egg & Embryo ~
Omphalitis may be caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs. BEWARE the egg that explodes in the hatching tray! This easily contaminates other eggs.
~ Chick ~
As the chick is hatching its exposed umbilicus (navel) can easily be infected by bacteria. More susceptible are those newly hatched chicks resting on dirty eggs, un-sanitized incubators, and also with assisted hatching. A chick removed from the incubator prior to complete healing of the navel is also giving a chance of infection in the brooder.
Symptoms
The chicks become lethargic and die quickly either during incubation or after hatching, with most dying within 48 hours from the infection. Symptoms may VARY depending on bacteria and can include poorly healed, open navels or enlarged navels, subcutaneous edema (large fluid volume in the abdomen), bluish color of the abdominal muscles and often unabsorbed yolk materials that could even smell putrid. Often yolks are ruptured and peritonitis (inflammation of the inner wall of the abdomen) is common. Chicks have little interest in food and water and are attracted to heat. Mortality often begins at hatching and can continue for 10/14 more days.
subcutaneous edema (large fluid volume in the abdomen)
unhealed navel after yolk sack rupture below
Below is an unhealed OPEN Navel
Below is an unhealed OPEN Navel
Below is an image of a duckling's belly with an infected navel.
It hatched with an unabsorbed yolk, and was about a week old in the pic.
The duckling DID survive, and is a loudmouth little call duck juvenile.
Treatments
There is no specific treatment for omphalitis. Most affected birds die.
Prevention is the best method.
A few suggestions for treatment are to clean the navel area with iodine several times a day. I have also used Veterycin gel spray. Freshen up water with multi vitamins or Save-A-Chick daily. Watch brooder temperatures as Chilling & overheating may increase losses at this stage. Isolate chick from others to prevent spread of bacteria and avoid pecking injuries.
Keep the brooder as clean and fresh as possible. Keep in mind that it may be wiser to humanely destroy the more severely affected chicks.
Prevention
The disease is prevented by careful control of temperature, humidity, and sanitation in the incubator and Hen House! Keep the Coop and nesting boxes clean and dry. Set only fresh, clean, non-porous and uncracked eggs. If it is necessary to set dirty eggs, they should be kept away from clean eggs. Gentle sanitizers are available for cleaning dirty eggs. Always wash hands, especially when turning! ALWAYS disinfect incubators and equipment before AND after use!
Also known as
Mushy Chick Disease
&
Yolk Sack infection
Omphalitis is a common cause of death in chicks during the first week of life and most common with artificially hatched chicks. It is a bacterial infection of the yolk sac. Various bacteria may be involved in yolk sack infection,
E.coli, Staphylococci, Proteus, Clostridia, fecalis and Pseudomonas.
Understanding the yolk sack
Growth of a chick begins in the small fertilized area at the top of the yolk. A network of blood vessels begins to develop spreading from the embryo out over the yolk. The yolk sac is attached to the chick's navel and the chick draws nourishment from it, producing an enzyme that changes the yolk material so that it can be used as a food by the developing embryo. As the chick hatches any remaining unused yolk is drawn into the chick’s abdomen or “navel”. It will supply nourishment for the chicks first few days after hatching.
CAUSES
~ Egg & Embryo ~
Omphalitis may be caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs. BEWARE the egg that explodes in the hatching tray! This easily contaminates other eggs.
~ Chick ~
As the chick is hatching its exposed umbilicus (navel) can easily be infected by bacteria. More susceptible are those newly hatched chicks resting on dirty eggs, un-sanitized incubators, and also with assisted hatching. A chick removed from the incubator prior to complete healing of the navel is also giving a chance of infection in the brooder.
Symptoms
The chicks become lethargic and die quickly either during incubation or after hatching, with most dying within 48 hours from the infection. Symptoms may VARY depending on bacteria and can include poorly healed, open navels or enlarged navels, subcutaneous edema (large fluid volume in the abdomen), bluish color of the abdominal muscles and often unabsorbed yolk materials that could even smell putrid. Often yolks are ruptured and peritonitis (inflammation of the inner wall of the abdomen) is common. Chicks have little interest in food and water and are attracted to heat. Mortality often begins at hatching and can continue for 10/14 more days.
subcutaneous edema (large fluid volume in the abdomen)
unhealed navel after yolk sack rupture below
Below is an unhealed OPEN Navel
Below is an unhealed OPEN Navel
Below is an image of a duckling's belly with an infected navel.
It hatched with an unabsorbed yolk, and was about a week old in the pic.
The duckling DID survive, and is a loudmouth little call duck juvenile.
Treatments
There is no specific treatment for omphalitis. Most affected birds die.
Prevention is the best method.
A few suggestions for treatment are to clean the navel area with iodine several times a day. I have also used Veterycin gel spray. Freshen up water with multi vitamins or Save-A-Chick daily. Watch brooder temperatures as Chilling & overheating may increase losses at this stage. Isolate chick from others to prevent spread of bacteria and avoid pecking injuries.
Keep the brooder as clean and fresh as possible. Keep in mind that it may be wiser to humanely destroy the more severely affected chicks.
Prevention
The disease is prevented by careful control of temperature, humidity, and sanitation in the incubator and Hen House! Keep the Coop and nesting boxes clean and dry. Set only fresh, clean, non-porous and uncracked eggs. If it is necessary to set dirty eggs, they should be kept away from clean eggs. Gentle sanitizers are available for cleaning dirty eggs. Always wash hands, especially when turning! ALWAYS disinfect incubators and equipment before AND after use!
A BIG Thank you to all of the image contributors for this Article.
Disclaimer: Please note this information is offered as friendly advice only and, whilst I have made every effort to ensure it is accurate, I can not be held responsible if it proves not to be useful in your case!
Many states in the US offer free or low cost necropsies, so that what I would look into if I were you or there is a good chance you'll lose the rest of your chicks.
This link lists State vets by State:
http://www.usaha.org/Portals/6/StateAnimalHealthOfficials.pdf
This link list some labs by State:
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/nahln/downloads/all_nahln_lab_list.pdf
And this is how I send one for necropsy:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/799747/how-to-send-a-bird-for-a-necropsy-pictures
-Kathy
This link lists State vets by State:
http://www.usaha.org/Portals/6/StateAnimalHealthOfficials.pdf
This link list some labs by State:
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/nahln/downloads/all_nahln_lab_list.pdf
And this is how I send one for necropsy:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/799747/how-to-send-a-bird-for-a-necropsy-pictures
-Kathy
- Thread starter
- #24
- Jul 1, 2014
- 31
- 0
- 24
Im in pa
Whereabouts in PA? We are near Gettysburg. This has been a hard season for many, so try not to feel too down about this. I have a friend who got 1 live chick out of 14 eggs, and last year he hatched many chicks with great success, things are just different this year.
- Thread starter
- #26
- Jul 1, 2014
- 31
- 0
- 24
i am outside reading pa. About two hrs away. We had the same results year before last yeareven though it was a different hen. We changed everything this year. New incubator. New broader
Well, we are in the same area and I have a Styrofoam incubator as well, that has worked just fine for me. So, tell me all the details, brand of bator, still-air or fan, temp you set it for, humidity for the first 24 days, Humidity for the last 3 days, what day are they hatching on, do you monitor temp. and humidity with a back-up therm/hygr., anything else you can think of. We'll see if we can figure out what is different between us. How about parent birds, are they healthy and wormed regularly, do you know their ages?
could be that they're just TOO hot -- i don't use a thermometer in the brooders .... i supply heat with 60 watt bulbs in HD's reflectors about 18-24" above the floor ..
... if the chicks are too cold, they move directly under the light huddled together -- means i have to lower the light a little or increase the watts...
.. if they're too hot, they're splayed out and at the farthest point away from the light --- means i have to raise the light or lower the watts ...
... the larger area you can use as a brooder, gives the chicks more freedom to either get away from or go into the light...
... if the chicks are too cold, they move directly under the light huddled together -- means i have to lower the light a little or increase the watts...
.. if they're too hot, they're splayed out and at the farthest point away from the light --- means i have to raise the light or lower the watts ...
... the larger area you can use as a brooder, gives the chicks more freedom to either get away from or go into the light...
- Thread starter
- #29
- Jul 1, 2014
- 31
- 0
- 24
I have a still air Styrofoam the brand is little giant. It says 40 watt. The temp is monitored at 99.5.. There is no way to set humidity. It has channels under the eggs to put water in. The Hen is new to us n seems very healthy. The male we have had for years and to my knowledge my dad has never worked them. (I moves home with him about a year ago after a family tradegy ). Im not sure how old the Hen is. Mmaybe 4. The male is at least 8 if not older. My hen laid a new egg yesterday and before i put it in i separated the others and sanitized the incubator. I also gently washed the egg before i put it in. I went and got a portable weather station today to tell me what the humidity was but their is still no way to control it. I just put it in and are awaiting a reading. Any help u could give would b awesome
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #30
- Jul 1, 2014
- 31
- 0
- 24
The chicks have been hatching on day 28/29
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