Show Off Your Games!

I think the old names and their usage have very little actual value for the older lines / strains no longer in the hands of the developers. Extensive crossing, declared / realized or not, plus different hands in selection process cause major changes very rapidly. In many cases what is "called" a breed simply has approximate proper color and station with usually at least some of the true breed in its background. My Hatch-looking birds descended from we called the same back in the 1970's and my grandfather reportedly joked around calling the same line the same well before the second World War. They still underwent changes during those intervals even when very little if any blood was infused into line, especially after the early 1980's. Still look like same line from about 1929 but the differences would be interesting to understand.

I would not get hung up on legal troubles risk when using strain names. For most they have value now as poodle has for being a bird dog in the U.S.
 
I have a question:
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I was looking on the "ultimatefowl" website & didn't see "toppy's" did they have a different name in the old days or what?
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Hi Jan ,
You will need to go to oakridge to find them . I saw some almost every day last week , but it takes some looking . Toppy's were brought over on the boats with all the other English , Irish , etc blood (SC Black Breasted Reds , Blacks , Brown Reds , Muffs , Toppys , Whites , Redquils , Grays , Roundheads & on & on)(and a lot of our kin folks were on those boats).
Shannon
 
Hi Jan ,
You will need to go to oakridge to find them . I saw some almost every day last week , but it takes some looking . Toppy's were brought over on the boats with all the other English , Irish , etc blood (SC Black Breasted Reds , Blacks , Brown Reds , Muffs , Toppys , Whites , Redquils , Grays , Roundheads & on & on)(and a lot of our kin folks were on those boats).
Shannon
Was the term toppy in use when birds where brought over?
 
I believe very strongly in preventive means and medications to avoid any sickness I can. When it comes (and it will/has) then the best thing to do is kill, kill, kill.

I use:
1. Bleach in the drinking water. (Best preventive medicine for chickens on the face of the planet).
2. Worm the chickens twice yearly.
3. Dust/spray for mites/lice every 3 weeks.
4. Treat all chickens for cocci at least twice yearly.
5. Feed Aureomycin as preventive to chicks and give it to adult birds once yearly.
6. Use LS-50 in the drinking water of every chick hatched.



Thank you for the information! I have couple of questions, if I may;
1-What is the water to bleach ratio you use? We have well water which is treated with bleach every spring; is that enough bleach?
2-Do you use metal or plastic water containers, and how often should the bleach-water should be replaced?
3- Is pourable Ivomec sufficient substitute for powder or spray mite/lice treatments?
4- Which worming medication would you recommend? I use Vazine and Ivermectin; are these two medications sufficient?
5-At what age, and for how many days do you treat the chicks with Aureomycin?
6-What is LS-50?

Thank you!

Lual
 
I find that many breeders are too intelligent (there doesn't exist such a thing, however!), that, and especially when dealing with such valuable breeding projects, leads to preventative treatment; but that is not the best approach to getting naturally healthy chickens in the end. When I, and others I know of, first started with chickens it was letting them out to range a bit, feeding scratch grains, and giving them some water every day. Now that, with fowl properly bred, is what will give naturally healthy, disease resistant chickens in the end. We didn't know about Cocci, worms or anything and the chickens either resisted this stuff or died. But now that we know about it, we say "you can't expect them to avoid certain things that just will affect them" well, we sure did when we didn't know any better! And they probably were affected, but just had a greater amount of resistance then the ones that fell. So it's not a total immunity we'll get, but adaptability and a degree of resistance that allows them to cope and thrive. This is for your yard, and will probably prove of little or lesser value when they go to someone else because they may not have been exposed to any of the new things present there. This isn't really scientifically proven in my head, or anything, just kind of some conclusions that I've come to by observing. But honestly, I'm still wondering what's best.
 
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Yes ............ first one that comes to mine is the "Irish Toppy" .(there was others)

That's where our American fowl came from originally . Some oriental blood was brought in pretty close to the same time .
Also some being imported over the early years and even up till today .

The English had used oriental blood in producing the "Boston Roundhead" (just enough to keep the pea comb) . Of course Hatch even used Boston Roundhead in a line of his fowl and other families did not have Oriental in them .
 
I find that many breeders are too intelligent (there doesn't exist such a thing, however!), that, and especially when dealing with such valuable breeding projects, leads to preventative treatment; but that is not the best approach to getting naturally healthy chickens in the end. When I, and others I know of, first started with chickens it was letting them out to range a bit, feeding scratch grains, and giving them some water every day. Now that, with fowl properly bred, is what will give naturally healthy, disease resistant chickens in the end. We didn't know about Cocci, worms or anything and the chickens either resisted this stuff or died. But now that we know about it, we say "you can't expect them to avoid certain things that just will affect them" well, we sure did when we didn't know any better! And they probably were affected, but just had a greater amount of resistance then the ones that fell. So it's not a total immunity we'll get, but adaptability and a degree of resistance that allows them to cope and thrive. This is for your yard, and will probably prove of little or lesser value when they go to someone else because they may not have been exposed to any of the new things present there. This isn't really scientifically proven in my head, or anything, just kind of some conclusions that I've come to by observing. But honestly, I'm still wondering what's best.
I agree with much of this. Cocci in past at another location where not an issue and never treated for with our birds. Many birds were undoubtedly lost in the beginning (well before my time) but has time pasted where conditioned suffered by growing up where they did, resistant birds prevailed making so cocci where no longer an issue. Same birds moved to another location two states away reared otherwise under identical conditions often get hammered by cocci but after only three generations of selection, resistance is shooting way up. Same strain is very resistant to worms at both locations while another breed outright dies if periodic deworming is not employed at my current location.

When I do treat with coccidiostats or dewormer these days, the treated birds loose their tags and leg bands because they are being culled when I decide to treat. The are treated simply to put weight back on, but out they go for sure.
 
Ima give them a fighting chance with cocci by treating I don't think it's that big of a deal and don't have enough to cull for cocci. Other things yes but not for cocci.
 
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