Silkie thread!

Amprolium has no witholding period. If you have the Protozoan in your soil it will only effect the chicks once they are on the ground. How they are packaged or sent has little or no bearing on it.
Amprolium is however a thiamine inhibitor and it starves the cocci to death , unfortunately if used over an extended period of time it can also cause a thiamine deficiency in the host and ultimately lead to wryneck.
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I was wondering why there would be a withholding period on a vitamin based medicine. I swear by medicated chick starter. Each and every time I have hatched chicks and put them on non medicated starter as soon as they go on the ground they start dropping like flies.

What are ya'll's feeding regimes?
how long to feed starter
grower
and then layer
and how much
same thing with fermented feed?

I am looking for the most efficient feeding plan
 
I have found that my silkies usually hatch a day or so early, some may say that is due to a higher incubation temperature and others say its because of being a bantam( like a call duck hatches 2 days before the standard 28 days for ducks because of their size) 
yes,I have Silkie,serama,Turken,Creole,and ee eggs.I locked them all down today.because ms,SALLY SUNSHINE,said too.
 
I was wondering why there would be a withholding period on a vitamin based medicine. I swear by medicated chick starter. Each and every time I have hatched chicks and put them on non medicated starter as soon as they go on the ground they start dropping like flies. 

What are ya'll's feeding regimes? 
how long to feed starter
grower
and then layer
and how much
same thing with fermented feed?

I am looking for the most efficient feeding plan 

Cocci is in everybody's soil and its chicks that are more likely to succumb to it. Feeding medicated starter may give your birds a head start, but it's also important to give them exposure to the soil . I start putting them in a safe pen, on the grass for a couple of hours a day from 2 weeks of age.
Starter is fed for the first 6 weeks, and if they have acces to soil, dirt or grit you can slowly introduce them to larger forms of feed from 4 weeks. Starters are high in protein and designed specifically for rapid growing bodies. I skip grower and move straight onto a general ' flock raiser ' as I have many roosters in my breeding pens. If you can get a feed with less than 2% calcium and 15-17 % protein , then all you need to provide is grit ( if you are inclined to ), calcium carbonate (crushed oyster shell ),
In a separate bowl , under cover, sunshine and fresh water. :)
 
@fancychooklady , I put a clump of dirt in the brooder as soon as j put my hatched (artificially, in my Bator) and put ACV in their water (Diluted). No one had cocci or any other illness and none died till I had some in a coop and rats got in :he
 
@fancychooklady , I put a clump of dirt in the brooder as soon as j put my hatched (artificially, in my Bator) and put ACV in their water (Diluted). No one had cocci or any other illness and none died till I had some in a coop and rats got in :he

There are several strains of cocci, not all have the same impact on the birds. Dogs , cats , horses, goats , rats, mice , rabbits, house flies etc etc........................
Carry it , even you can carry from bird to bird on your hands or clothing. It's only when you have an overload that you need to start treatment. The birds , once infected shed the ocyst in their droppings and the next bird to come along will pick it up whilst pecking the ground. By Keeping your pens as clean as you can and minimizing the fly population will go a long way to keeping it under control. The good thing about winter is that they don't survive freezing temperatures. :)
 

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