Silkie thread!

Quote:
I would have to agree. One usually stays quieter. One or two crows in the morning to say they are here and maybe a couple during the day if disturbed. More than one.. well.. one sets off another, then another, and they keep going until they all get tired of it - then something else sets them off. I would choose ONE boy and keep him, and re-home the other two. Depending on the color of the girl - I would keep the same colored boy. That way if you want to hatch chicks you won't get mixed colors, its easier to sell pure colored chicks.
 
Last edited:
this month was a bad one ... first all my chicks were killed by a raccoon family but one and then my silkie chicks caught coccidi and they all died but one .. but what I don't get is one of the ones who died was vaccinated and I thought when they get the vaccine they can't catch coccidi (there were 2 that were vaccinated partridge color and then there were 3 who were not vaccinated 2 blue light and dark then a black but they all died but one) and another thing I don't get is one caught it but its fine now and there was a young cockerel with them about the same age as the 2 partridge silkies and he didn't not catch it .. why is everything going bad for me
hit.gif
So sorry, I have been thru this. I do medicated feed, I keep corrid and sulmet on hand. It helps to keep there area as dry as possible. Hydrogen peroxide liquid form 3 % or hydrogen dioxide powder kill the bacteria and fungi in soil. I put sand in my runs, that help keep it dry. then rake dropping out. there is several strains of cocci . If your birds make it through they will be immune from the strain that they had. by using medicated feed it helps if they do get the cocci. if they get cocci take them off medicated feed before using corrid or sulmet it could overdose them. also introducing them to ur soil for short periods a time while feeding the medicated feed. I also keep my young ones up on hardware cloth while they grow, the dropping fall thru and helps prevent it. keep an eye on there droppimgs first signs of blood in even on bird medicate all. Good luck hope this helps...
 
I actually have changed what I do for my young ones now. I used to do the medicated feed, keep them separate from all outside contact until they were much older - and medicate at first signs of trouble.

I now feed NON medicated feed (fermented) and introduce the day olds to the dirt my chickens walk in - to get their immune system working on it while they still have the natural immunities from the egg yolk. I have never had a broody raised chick get sick from cocci and I figured it was because they were exposed really early and built up an immunity before the cocci could hurt them. I medicate only when they show the puffy/cold symptoms.

Last year with the first system I lost 6 birds to cocci when I brought them outside for the first time. The 4 died before they showed symptoms (fine one evening and gone the next morning), and I lost two after medicating because they were already too far gone.

This year I have lost nobody, and only had to treat one batch of littles - and only one in that batch showed any signs of distress.

In both cases I would say keep the brooder space clean and dry - and don't allow the poops to build up too much because the ammonia can cause other problems. You want them to have some exposure - but not an overload (that's what kills them).
 
I actually have changed what I do for my young ones now. I used to do the medicated feed, keep them separate from all outside contact until they were much older - and medicate at first signs of trouble.

I now feed NON medicated feed (fermented) and introduce the day olds to the dirt my chickens walk in - to get their immune system working on it while they still have the natural immunities from the egg yolk. I have never had a broody raised chick get sick from cocci and I figured it was because they were exposed really early and built up an immunity before the cocci could hurt them. I medicate only when they show the puffy/cold symptoms.

Last year with the first system I lost 6 birds to cocci when I brought them outside for the first time. The 4 died before they showed symptoms (fine one evening and gone the next morning), and I lost two after medicating because they were already too far gone.

This year I have lost nobody, and only had to treat one batch of littles - and only one in that batch showed any signs of distress.

In both cases I would say keep the brooder space clean and dry - and don't allow the poops to build up too much because the ammonia can cause other problems. You want them to have some exposure - but not an overload (that's what kills them).
I start feeding my newly hatched brooder chicks unmedicated fermented chick starter on day three with UN-ACV and liquid vitamins without iron. I also introduce grass with dirt clods from the yard where the adult flock range. I haven't lost a bird to cocci in years. I don't change the bedding in the brooder but keep adding shavings everyday and stirring it in. Keeping the ammonia down is key and keeping their bedding very dry. No dampness ever. Mine are brooded separate from the adult flock until two months old. I never medicate for anything. I have also found Silkies raised by broody hens are much healthier and do better than brooder raised chicks.
 
Haha! I gotta say, I am so excited! I thought about eggs all night at work! Im like a kid in the biggest candy store that also sells toys with a wad of cash in my pocket!
That sounds about right. lol This will be my 3rd time ordering eggs. It all still feels like Christmas.
lau.gif

Wait 'til you do your first show. You'll be a nervous wreck.
barnie.gif
lol But then you'll realize "Oh, this wasn't so bad after all. I think I'll do it again...and again...and again....and again, and oh, I need better chickens so I can do this again..." and you get the point, right? lol
 
I would have to agree.  One usually stays quieter.  One or two crows in the morning to say they are here and maybe a couple during the day if disturbed.   More than one.. well.. one sets off another, then another, and they keep going until they all get tired of it - then something else sets them off.  I would choose ONE boy and keep him, and re-home the other two.  Depending on the color of the girl - I would keep the same colored boy.  That way if you want to hatch chicks you won't get mixed colors, its easier to sell pure colored chicks.

Thank you so much!
My hen is black, but I am afraid my black boy isn't full bred silkie. He has some greenish feathers on his rear and wings. Also where would you think I could sell or give away my other two?
400
 
Last edited:
Quote:
Well, your Black boy looks to be full Silkie, but unbearded and pet quality. The green feathers are normal on a black bird - they are supposed to show a greenish hue on the solid feathers, its just that Silkies don't have many solid feathers - except on the wings and tail.

You can try Craig's List for re-homing the boys you decide not to keep. If you want some help deciding you can put pictures of everybody up and we can vote on the prettiest one
wink.png


Sometimes local feed stores will take roosters for re-homing. They won't pay you for them but you won't have to worry about them any more. Usually they will go for pets (the Silkies), very few people will actually eat a Silkie..
 
I set eighteen silkie eggs in my incubator a couple weeks ago because none of my White trio of pullets seemed to get the hang of brooding successfully. So wouldn't you know it? The six eggs I gave to Judy the Broody my green egg layer and two pullets decided to sit!

Judy the Broody is on seven Catdance trio eggs.


These girls will lay eggs anywhere. On the ground, in the yard, in the runs. I picked up one in her bottomless flower pot and picked up the cabinet with drawers removed with the other and put them both in an unused breeding pen. The rest of the Silkie flock were piling on top of them every night and pooping on the broody hens and their eggs! I can close the pen door and feed and water them separate now too. Silly clucks.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom