sn0wwhite's Wichita Coop for the Twin Cities

Ugh. I probably have a huge mess then.

We just screwed the OSB (painted side down) to the rafters.
then screwed (using pole barn screws) the metal roof to the OSB.

I put a drip guard on the front of the OSB, but rain blowing could easily get under the metal ridges on the roof.

Did I miss a step? Can I do something to block the water getting under?
 
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So did you overlap the roof panels as directed in the instructions? Did you use the screws with the rubber grommet around the bases (which helps to seal them from leaking)? It does not sound like you did. This is most likely where the leak is coming from I would guess. The tar paper is a last line of defense to keep your OSB from swelling and disintegrating. Water and OSB is not a good mix. I would unscrew the roof panels and double check that everything was installed correctly and then add tar paper and reinstall. Are you absolutely sure that the water is from a poorly sealed seam? Could it be wind blown from the front edge of your roof?
 
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Yes, I did overlap and I did use the silicone washer pole barn screws. The original plans didn't call for tar paper and the Menards sales guy didn't say it was needed either because we discussed using shingles instead of the metal roof. He encouraged me to go the metal roof route.

I do think that is is wind blown from the front edge. I can't photo right now, I'm not at home at the moment.

If I take the metal roof off and put tar paper under it, can I put it back on and reuse the same holes to screw into again? Or is there some way to better block the front roof edge to keep water from blowing under the ridges?
 
Did you put the screws on the highest points of the roof corrugations?

If it's blowing into the front (high side of slant) of the corrugations, there's a gasket type material the matches the corrugations that might help.
 
There is a piece of metal flashing called a "leading edge" flashing - it should be installed on the front (highest end) of the roof, this will cover the openings in the corrugation. I've seen this in another coop chronicle on BYC and will find it for you to show.
Here are two photos to show what i'm referring to:


 
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Good points about where you placed the screws. If you put them in the "valleys" of the tin roofing that as incorrect. They should have been place into the highest "peaks" of the roofing. The tar paper will not stop the leaks, and that is what you need to figure out. Where is the leaking originating from and what is the cause. The tar paper is just a last line of defense and not a cure all.
 
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There is a piece of metal flashing called a "leading edge" flashing - it should be installed on the front (highest end) of the roof, this will cover the openings in the corrugation. I've seen this in another coop chronicle on BYC and will find it for you to show.
Here are two photos to show what i'm referring to:



That looks like what I need.

Good points about where you placed the screws. If you put them in the "valleys" of the tin roofing that as incorrect. They should have been place into the highest "peaks" of the roofing. The tar paper will not stop the leaks, and that is what you need to figure out. Where is the leaking originating from and what is the cause. The tar paper is just a last line of defense and not a cure all.

Ok, noted.

Did you put the screws on the highest points of the roof corrugations?

If it's blowing into the front (high side of slant) of the corrugations, there's a gasket type material the matches the corrugations that might help.

I didn't put them on the high parts... those peaks aren't even touching the OSB... wouldn't that have bent the roof all up? From the side view it looks like this: __/--\____/--\____/--\____/--\__

I'm sure it's blowing into the high side. It looks like I'll be back at Menards tonight looking for that gasket thing or else the leading edge flashing Sam shows. I just didn't see anything like this at Home Depot, that's why I went with a drip edge instead (again after talking to their roof guys...)

Ugh. And... about to head out of town. And snow is forcasted for next week. Poor chickens.
 
You want the screw to go thru the high parts as the water will flow along the lower sections(valleys). You can predrill the sheet metal with a slightly smaller hole diameter than the screw. You have already screwed it thru the flat area and that will be a problem from now on when it rains. Sorry but that was a big mistake. I am surprised that the people at Menards did not tell you this. Use some silicone to caulk the screw heads really good. I truly believe that this is the reason for your leak. You should never screw into the flat area of tin roofing. Only thru the high peaks! You can either silicone the screw heads where they are now installed and see if it stops the leaks. If not then replace it and put the screws in the correct locations. Experience is a brutal teacher sometimes. Oh but the flashing for the front edge of your roof is also a really good idea for wind driven rain!
 
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Experience IS brutal. Well, I would have never guessed to drill through the high parts. Why isn't it leaking everywhere then though?
 

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