Soap Makers Help!

[Morgaine]

crisco is soybean and cotten seed, I think. Palm oil around here is the 0 gram trans fat shortening, H.E.B carries it . some lye calculators have crisco listed as an oil option.

 

[Jenlyn9483]

I don't have a scale yet so measurements are gonna have to work on the first batch. I Assume someone wouldnt put a recipe on the net if it wasnt tried and true. We will find out today. Thanks everyone, I will let you know how it goes.

 

[cheeptrick]

Dry measure will always give you a different weight of oil no matter what oils you use. Every oil has an SAP value...and technically with each season/harvest this SAP value can change and this is directly tied to the 'weight' of the oil.

Crisco is OK....but your bar will be very soft and not last long. I add Stearic Acid to my bar for hardness. The Palm Oil also contributes to a hard bar...coconut = lather...and olive oil would be your base oil 'good for your skin'. Coconut oil and Palm oil are very drying....only put in for lather and hardness. Plus these oils melt on contact....but at room temp they are like Crisco in texture and will need to be melted on the stove. VERY tough to get accurate measure when using a dry measuring cup with oils like these. IF you must go this route...I'd suggest the Crisco BLOCKS wrapped like butter...but I'd steer clear of the butter flavored ones. There is a graduated scale on the sides of the bar...

There is a recipe for JUST OLIVE OIL...but I've never tried it. I'll search it out for you.

Here is a scale that I used from Wal-Mart...it is a bargain and works perfect for your small batch. TIP...put your POT you plan to heat oils in on the scale...it prevents loss. <did I just recommend WAL-MART

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http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10098024


Chef's usually use weight instead of dry measure...for pastries etc. it does make a big difference.

 

[Jenlyn9483]

im at the part in my recipe where it says let it set for 15 minutes, I really hope this turns out, that coconut oil was real expensive. I heard some of you talking about remaking botched batches, is that possible?

 

[MissPrissy]

Rebatching takes time.

You have to grate it fine, heat it gently, add a little water and wait for it to melt. It is an all day long wait sometimes.

 

[Jenlyn9483]

The soap traced and its in the molds now. I just have to wait 2 days to see if it hardens properly. I guess getting it to trace is half the battle?

 

[Morgaine]

http://www.teachsoap.com/rebatch.html

Here is a link on how to rebatch soap.

 

[ninjapoodles]

The new, green-label, "no trans-fat" Crisco MIGHT be palm oil, but I've never checked. Most "no trans-fat" shortenings are, indeed, just palm oil, but be sure and check the label.

I rebatch in the microwave. Works great, and doesn't take long. I've also done it on the stovetop. I don't do it very often, because I like smooth CP soap best.

You don't need a recipe to make a pure 100% olive oil soap. That is honestly one of my favorite soaps. Just decide how much oil you want to use, and run it through a lye calculator--that will give you the amount of lye and water or milk to use.

 

[Morgaine]

how long does your castile take to cure, Ninjapoodles? I've heard it takes a long time to cure, but once it does, it it as hard as a rock. I think after Christmas soaps are finished, I am going to infuse some olive oil with calendula flowers and make some, maybe with a little castor oil for lather even though it is not traditional.

 

[ninjapoodles]

Quote:
At least 6 weeks, and 8 is better. The cured bars are rock-hard, and bright white. In my experience, most people who make "castile" soaps use something else for lather. When I make them, though, I just use OO. The low lather takes some getting used to, but I just love the soap.