Soap Makers Help!

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I haven't tried the rose petals but I think I have read that they keep their color when they are just on the top, I know my lavender buds kept their color when on top. You might try crushed rose petals instead of whole. I bet a mix of crished rose petals and calendula would be very pretty on the top.
 
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How frustrating! I'm so sorry!
Maybe someone else has something else planned for you?

I love my KD-7000 from Old Will Knot

Note about helping scales last longer. Keep them in a ziplock bag ALL THE TIME! Especially when weighing your ingredients


(or running them under the faucet) ...

I fixed it!!!!! I'm back in business

Yay!!! hairdryer????

My question is, how do you cut a big block of beeswax?

A real sharp grater.


I haven't tried the rose petals but I think I have read that they keep their color when they are just on the top,

A sure way to keep them looking good is to wait until the soap is fully saponified, then pour a thin layer of clear M&P on top, then quickly (before the M&P cools) put on your rose petals.​
 
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The first soap I made was from the Soapmaker's Companion. It was Olive, coconut, palm. It was a nice basic bar that had good bubbles.

If you want a LOT of bubbles you can make a 100% coconut soap, make sure you use a very high super fat. I do 20% with the coconut soap. Here you go

Water 12 oz
Lye 5 oz
Coconut oil 32 oz (2 pound container from walmart)
 
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Here are some pictures of my molds finally!
Here is my anise soap I did last night.
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Here is my slab mold, I forgot to take the picture while the soap was in
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And the soap I unmolded for the swap, Apple jack peel made with apple cider as the liquid
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The chemical reaction between any base and acid creates the exothermic reaction. By putting the soap in the refrigerator / freezer / outside during the winter, you can retard the reaction but it is still taking place.

Just as applying heat (HP) or insulating the soap will increase the reaction and speed up the process, putting your soap in the deep freeze slows the reaction and the process.

Thus the difference in the texture of the final product.

Also...the frozen milk can still saponify...when it hits the lye...like you said the lye is not picky which fats it saponifies.

Yes, the fats in the frozen milk will saponify. By working quickly, keeping your milk/lye solution cold as to not burn the sugars and adding the milk/lye solution to the waiting oils as soon as you have dissolved all the lye, you increase the amount of readily available fats & oils in your soap pot saponifying. If you leave your milk/lye solution sitting on the counter while you're putting together your oils, the fat in the milk will definitely saponify and the natural sugars will burn. You could end up with a gelatonous orange mess.

Here is a picture of my milk/lye solution after all the lye has been added to the frozen milk. At this point, I use the stick blender to finish off the rest of those milk cubes and pour immediately into the waiting oils...

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I have had that happen, it was about the same thickness as medium traced soap. I soaped it and it turned out fine though.

MLF- Thanks for the scale link, I think I've found my new scale!
 
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I used black oxide for the swirl. Can I say that I love the way it turned out too and not sound conceited?
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Although that anise is freaking strong! I use 1.3 oz for 5 pounds oils and my whole house smells like licorice. Next time I'm cutting it down.

I haven't decided which scale yet, but I'm leaning to the one you got I think. I like my escali, but the platform just isn't big enough.
 
i'd be braggin on the swirl ifn it were mine!

I loved my escali ... served me well for 6 years, but I love the KD-7000 too. The platform is a bit bigger than my old escali, but not much. I can still fit my huge stock pot and read the LED though.
 

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