Soap Makers Help!

Very interesting and helpful! Thank you all for your replies.

I made my batch a couple of days ago and jumped in to try hot processing (I really like the idea of using "right now" instead of waiting 4 weeks....lol) and altho the soap is not as rock hard as I would like it is still very usable, lathers well, and seems to moisturize well.

Does any one else use the HP method? I would really like to try the crock pot method if anyone has experience with it. Also, where is a good place to get fragrance/essential oils? Good quality on the cheap, that is.....lol! I have looked and there are quite a few places to choose from. Also, any suggestions on scents? I've noticed some sites sell combo scented oils and would like to hear some opinions on them.

Anyway, thank you again everyone for your input. I had SO much fun making my soap the other day and am itching to make more (altho we couldn't POSSIBLY use this much soap in an entire year!)
 
BrokeDown,

You can use CP soap right away also (once it cools down in the molds). Every soap, including HP, is much better after a 4-6 week 'cure'. The 'cure' time is to allow the excess moisture to evaporate from your soaps leaving you a harder bar that lasts longer and lathers better.

As you use your new soap, take note how long a bar lasts now and how long it lasts 6 months from now.

One of the reasons I have so many repeat customers is because I allow my soaps to sit 4-6 weeks before wrapping and selling.
 
Hi! Thanks again for all your help and wisdom.
Is this not true?
UNDERSTANDING HOT PROCESSING
The primary reason for making hot-process soap is that you can use it right away. The "hot" part of the processing is cooking the soap over heat until it neutralizes. This is a timesaver over cold-process soapmaking, because you don't have to wait for the soap to neutralize on its own.


I understand drying/aging to make a longer lasting bar. I thought part of the wait was waiting for the soap to neutralize?
I hot-processed another batch today and will compare it in a couple days to same recipe cold-processed 3-weeks-old.
smile.png

Lisa​
 
No, it does not take 4 weeks for the lye to neutralize!

The chemical reaction between the base (lye) and acids (oils) is exothermic ... it gives off it's own heat. When the soap gels, you are seeing the chemical reaction in action! When I started making soap in '99, we were told to insulate the soap and not peek for 24 hours! The insulation was to keep the heat in to give you a full gel to the edges of your soap (And it is perfectly fine to peek!)

I've measured temperatures in my gelling soap at over 180*F. This was only a few hours after the soap had been put in the molds. When your soap has cooled down, saponification is complete and the soap is safe to use at that time.

CPOP is just another form of insulated CP soap where you give the gelling process a boost of initial heat.

Yes, using the HP method you will have completed soap within a few hours, but you still need to mold it and let the soap cool down in the mold. With the CP method, you will have to wait until the next day until the saponification has completed.

For folks that retard the exothermic reaction during soaping (by not allowing the soap to gel), I wouldn't venture to guess how long it takes for the lye to neutralize.
 
Very good information! I, like the others, thought the lye needed the exrta time to neutralize. So my next question is - does HP soap benefit with the waiting period like CP soap does (hardness and longevity) or is it as hard and stable as it will get once it's cooled?


Another question - what is the recommended amount of EO for a 1 pound batch? I was able to pick up some anise yesterday and want to try it without overpowering/underpowering the soap scent.

Thanks again everyone for your help!!!
 
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