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Spring 2017 first timers post!

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I'm in! I just received 4 chicks from a friend 2 days ago. I think they are about a week or so old. We have no idea what we are doing and trying to get started building a coop for my new babies. So... yes, lets see.

Peggy from Mississippi

Welcome and GET BUSY AND BUILD THAT COOP!!!!

Gary from Idyllwild Ca here

Must. Finish. Coop. 51 days til chicks arrive....
 
Hi all mind if I join?

We've been raising chickens for nearly two years now....or is it three? Lol we love love love our flock.

DH2B thinks I'm obsessed. I call it passionate.

I see many of you have learned that chickens aren't cheap. Lol

Hopefully I can get and give some advice on this thread. We will be having our first chicks ever direct mailed to our post office in March. I'm very excited. They are DH2B's choice and are 15+ extras heritage line Buckeyes.

We're very very excited!
We have previously purchased chicks from feed stores or gotten them from BYC friends. We have also done a fair bit of hatching.
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We use the deep litter method in the winter and love it.

In our experience cream legbars are not flighty birds especially when handled as chicks.

We may also be adding some other chicks this year as well hopefully multiples. My choice for the year was CL hatching eggs but the seller backed out. Now I need to find more chickens lol

We keep our bantams with our large fowl flock except for breeding. This works best if they have been raised together as chicks so they don't pick on the "littles".

We have a mixed flock including Old English Game Bantams, English and American Orpingtons, SLW, cream legbars, silkies, a project breed that we started last year, EE, and a few odds and ends for example a Delaware, a golden laced sebright, a buff Brahma, and multiple others.

If you're looking into breeds and can't decide we love our Orpingtons, CL, EE, and Brahmas.. We have also had golden comets, ISA browns, and a few others that were wonderful birds.

We tried brown Leghorns last year but did not like them they were so flighty we couldn't get close to them without cornering them and they panicked every time they saw us walk into the coop and freaked the rest of the flock out so bad they were flighty for a couple weeks still after the Leghorns left. However we work very hard to keep only the calmest and gentlest breeds as we want a very peaceful flock so if that doesn't bother you they are great layers and personally I think the browns are stunning.

We actually replaced our original strain of SLW with some show stock chicks because of two reasons...predators and the original ones were not easy to handle despite being handled a lot as chicks they liked to follow you in the yard but didn't like being touched. There again they were great birds and we had planned to keep two of them but they were taken by predators, after we sold the other two and that meant starting over. We like to be able to handle our birds without stressing them out in case they should need any special care or treatment(any injury, mites, lice, bumble foot, possible egg binding, illness etc). It's also good if you plan to hatch chicks at all to have a hands on approach when choosing your breeders. I feel this give you an idea of their temperament but also their skeletal structure, weight, confirmation, and for hens checking the distance between their hip bones can be beneficial to seeing how good of layers they'll be.

Sorry if that was confusing lol. When we started with chickens(both our families had them at some point when we were kids- but they were "just chickens") we did research for over a year before taking the plunge. Then chicken math happened big time lol. Thankfully we had an old two room concrete foundation(and about a foot up the walls) milkhouse we were able to convert and use. It's been great! That being said for those of you building your own coops cover everything in hardware cloth lol. If we ever have the chance to redo the foundation or create any more we will lay hardware cloth in or under the foundation. We have never had trouble with mice before like we have this winter. Holy cow! It's been crazy! They have chewed through the concrete(yes through it) to get up into the walls where they are living in the insulation. This summer we will be working to repair all of their damage and rodent proof the coop for the future.

Unfortunately in the meantime we have quite the fight on our hands as some of the flock hunt the mice but the ones on the backside- currently cockerals destined to be guests for dinner do not. So we can't poison because they could be eaten we place traps under wire milk crates but haven't had much luck this way either.

Now onto predators. We live in rural southern Wisconsin and everything eats chicken. Unfortunately starting last May up until last month we have had a major problem with fox mostly but also coyotes and hawks. We lost 28+ birds to predators between May 2016 and January
2017. Over 500-800+$ worth of birds if we had sold them, not even including what they cost us or what we put into them to raise them. Obviously birds of prey are highly protected(I've heard a blast from a hose or super soaker can deter them) but coyotes and fox that are killing your livestock are legal to shoot from what I've read in WI.

I hope none of you ever have problems but it does happen. Even rats will kill and eat baby chicks we lost a chick that way one night when it was in another of our buildings in an enclosed run. The rat went through a one inch gap.

We live in a house that is surrounded by open fields but we have a large yard. Unfortunately where the milkhouse(coop) is situated we cannot fence in a run for the birds. Although we do have a couple smaller portable runs/tractors our flock all together will probably peak at over 60 birds this year not including cockerals to be eaten. That run would have to be a good hunk of the yard which would be insanely expensive plus we don't own the property so we can't just go fencing things in. We free range during the day predators and weather allowing and lock the birds up at night.

We added four guineas last year for predator lookouts we also keep roosters(have from the beginning and we've had some amazing and only two awful roosters).

We are also making a smaller coop that is basically a tractor coop but it's too heavy to move(we may put it on wheels) and have another coop that will be moved this spring from and uncles house. These other coops will mostly be used for breeding and growing out chicks but may end up being insulated and used year round.

We also added quail in December and have our first quail eggs in the incubator.

Sorry this is so long lol

Let me know if anyone has any questions about breeds or anything I'll help if I can. Glad to see all the little chicks
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I have two broodies right now and I'm dieing to give them some eggs.

That's cool you are getting buckeyes; they are beautiful. We bought a former dairy farm that also has the concrete sheds/ milking sheds on it, and I was thinking of putting chickens in one of them too. My main concern was that it seems really dark inside though; seems like they would need some time out in the fresh air & sunshine. What did you do to convert your shed for the chickens?

I have a shipping date for my chicks! Looks like they will be sent out on March 7th. I am getting a mix of chocolate/ chocolate cuckoo Orpingtons, with possibly a few other colors of Orps as extras.
 
That's cool you are getting buckeyes; they are beautiful. We bought a former dairy farm that also has the concrete sheds/ milking sheds on it, and I was thinking of putting chickens in one of them too. My main concern was that it seems really dark inside though; seems like they would need some time out in the fresh air & sunshine. What did you do to convert your shed for the chickens?

I have a shipping date for my chicks! Looks like they will be sent out on March 7th. I am getting a mix of chocolate/ chocolate cuckoo Orpingtons, with possibly a few other colors of Orps as extras.


Well the shed is a work in progress BC I think you can always tweak the design.

First the cooler originally had two windows but before we made it a coop years ago it was used for a cooler to get show steers ready for the fair by having them grow in a thick winter coat for those that don't know. This coat is then trimmed into the appropriate shape for the breed and helps to hide flaws. Anyways when it was made into a cooler the windows were boarded up and AC unit added and it was well insulated. The floor drains unhooked and a shower stall taken out of the back side. The back side was used as an office and supply area during this time.

Then the cooler became storage the ac unit was sold and three years ago was used for show pigs for a family member.

It was after the pigs were shipped that summer that we began to convert it. At first only half and then the back side was too.

We have reopened one of the windows and the second will follow this summer we will also possibly be adding another window or two. We built and installed a a wire screen door that can be left open weather permitting allowing air and more light.

We built and installed roosts although we still plan to adjust these to make them hinged and liftable for clean out. And will probably add another set of roosts.

We cleaned and cut the large side of the lids off of tidy cat tubs and lay them on their sides for ideal nest boxes the little ledge holds in the bedding. We will be adding another layer or two of nest boxes this year as well.

It does need a new roof and we plan to replace the insulation this year to deter rodents. The building hasn't been kept up as well as it could have been being quite old but it's still sound and safe it's also warm. Up until this winter we didn't have any trouble with rodents.

We use cleaned tidy cat containers turned into feeders and stand them on metal milk crates. Any feed that falls gets cleaned up when we move the milk crates every day or two.

It's really been quite wonderful and after some TLC will be perfect.

The back side of the cooler coop is a bit smaller but can still comfortably hold over 20+ birds. We have made several small runs in the back side for grow outs or broodies. They are however removable should we not need them We have also created a platform about 3 or so feet off the ground and made a nice completely enclosed quail area we may add another one yet. There are lights throughout the coop run off of an extension cord. We also have connections on the back side for heat lamps should we need them. While I have heard many horror stories and I do worry we attach our heat lamps in a way that they cannot fall often using multiple ways to hold them in place.

We use the clips to attach them to the board and then zip tie the clip tightly closed. We then take a drill and drill 2-4 screws into either side of the clip.

It's hard to explain DH2B could do it better. Basically by putting two screws on either side of the clip on the same side of the board the heads of the screws go over the clip and hold it in place. We do 2 of these on either side of the board/clip it pretty much makes the light impossible to move. That being said it is a pain in the butt to move but it gives me peace of mind.

We also have 3 stock tanks that can be used for chicks as needed although two of them are better than the other one.

Are your buildings completely concrete or cinder blocks? Again the foundation of ours only goes about 8-12" up from the floor.
Let me know if you have any questions about anything I said or anything else we have done. It's been great!

Also for clarification while we love the big built in nest boxes etc this saves us time and money they're also more sanitary I feel BC they can be bleached. If an egg breaks in the box we take it out dump it clean it let it dry and can either replace it in the meantime or leave the spot empty. We also love them for broodies again easy to clean but the eggs aren't going to roll out of the nest. Furthermore if the hen goes broody and you want to separate her you pick her up nest box and all(at night if she's flighty) and move the whole thing. Easy as pie. Of course there's still a small chance she could quite but we've never had a bird moved in this way quit. Also if you decide to use this idea I also recommend drilling a couple small holes in the back and top of the box or along the sides for ventilation. This will keep the air from getting too stale and the moisture from backing up in the air behind a large broody. We had one buff Orpington hen that had a problem BC she liked to be in the box facing backwards but always managed to fluff and close off all the air/or most of it. It wasn't bad BC we kept an eye on it but then we knew it's better to drill a couple holes.
 
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Today was the day wood finally got put up!!! Chick arrival date is Mar 28-30. We finished our perimeter foundation yesterday and today we put up 3 of the 10 panels needed. These 3 are the end and 2 sides that will compose the coop, 6' x 10' and about 18" high with an outside full size door. Will continue working on the coop within these 3 panels, designing/deciding on layout, size, etc as we go. We have sifted thru MANY suggestions on this site and are eager to put some of them into place. TBC, BB


 
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@bajabirdbrain that coop looks huge! What size is it? Nice job on the foundation. Looks like you have much better weather than me as I am currently building my coop between snow storms. I have about 1 1/2 feet of snow on the ground now. Does make it a wee bit more difficult. Great job and keep those pictures coming!
 
Well the shed is a work in progress BC I think you can always tweak the design.

First the cooler originally had two windows but before we made it a coop years ago it was used for a cooler to get show steers ready for the fair by having them grow in a thick winter coat for those that don't know. This coat is then trimmed into the appropriate shape for the breed and helps to hide flaws. Anyways when it was made into a cooler the windows were boarded up and AC unit added and it was well insulated. The floor drains unhooked and a shower stall taken out of the back side. The back side was used as an office and supply area during this time.

Then the cooler became storage the ac unit was sold and three years ago was used for show pigs for a family member.

It was after the pigs were shipped that summer that we began to convert it. At first only half and then the back side was too.

We have reopened one of the windows and the second will follow this summer we will also possibly be adding another window or two. We built and installed a a wire screen door that can be left open weather permitting allowing air and more light.

We built and installed roosts although we still plan to adjust these to make them hinged and liftable for clean out. And will probably add another set of roosts.

We cleaned and cut the large side of the lids off of tidy cat tubs and lay them on their sides for ideal nest boxes the little ledge holds in the bedding. We will be adding another layer or two of nest boxes this year as well.

It does need a new roof and we plan to replace the insulation this year to deter rodents. The building hasn't been kept up as well as it could have been being quite old but it's still sound and safe it's also warm. Up until this winter we didn't have any trouble with rodents.

We use cleaned tidy cat containers turned into feeders and stand them on metal milk crates. Any feed that falls gets cleaned up when we move the milk crates every day or two.

It's really been quite wonderful and after some TLC will be perfect.

The back side of the cooler coop is a bit smaller but can still comfortably hold over 20+ birds. We have made several small runs in the back side for grow outs or broodies. They are however removable should we not need them We have also created a platform about 3 or so feet off the ground and made a nice completely enclosed quail area we may add another one yet. There are lights throughout the coop run off of an extension cord. We also have connections on the back side for heat lamps should we need them. While I have heard many horror stories and I do worry we attach our heat lamps in a way that they cannot fall often using multiple ways to hold them in place.

We use the clips to attach them to the board and then zip tie the clip tightly closed. We then take a drill and drill 2-4 screws into either side of the clip.

It's hard to explain DH2B could do it better. Basically by putting two screws on either side of the clip on the same side of the board the heads of the screws go over the clip and hold it in place. We do 2 of these on either side of the board/clip it pretty much makes the light impossible to move. That being said it is a pain in the butt to move but it gives me peace of mind.

We also have 3 stock tanks that can be used for chicks as needed although two of them are better than the other one.

Are your buildings completely concrete or cinder blocks? Again the foundation of ours only goes about 8-12" up from the floor.
Let me know if you have any questions about anything I said or anything else we have done. It's been great!

Also for clarification while we love the big built in nest boxes etc this saves us time and money they're also more sanitary I feel BC they can be bleached. If an egg breaks in the box we take it out dump it clean it let it dry and can either replace it in the meantime or leave the spot empty. We also love them for broodies again easy to clean but the eggs aren't going to roll out of the nest. Furthermore if the hen goes broody and you want to separate her you pick her up nest box and all(at night if she's flighty) and move the whole thing. Easy as pie. Of course there's still a small chance she could quite but we've never had a bird moved in this way quit. Also if you decide to use this idea I also recommend drilling a couple small holes in the back and top of the box or along the sides for ventilation. This will keep the air from getting too stale and the moisture from backing up in the air behind a large broody. We had one buff Orpington hen that had a problem BC she liked to be in the box facing backwards but always managed to fluff and close off all the air/or most of it. It wasn't bad BC we kept an eye on it but then we knew it's better to drill a couple holes.

Wow, thanks for all that detailed info! I believe our whole shed is concrete although it's in a different area so I won't be able to go and see it again till the summer. We are not planning on moving to that area till next year so I have plenty of time to plan. :) I will definitely keep these ideas in mind!
 
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@bajabirdbrain that coop looks huge! What size is it? Nice job on the foundation. Looks like you have much better weather than me as I am currently building my coop between snow storms. I have about 1 1/2 feet of snow on the ground now. Does make it a wee bit more difficult. Great job and keep those pictures coming!
We, too, had some snow delays but nothing like you have, ugh! The coop is 6'x10' and will be about 6' tall inside after we raise the floor 18"-24" from the grass. Considering whether or not to put the nesting boxes outside or in. The run is 10' x 24' and will be at least partially roofed to keep rain out. Regardless, what ever isn't roofed will have netting. Our intent is to allow the girls to access their coop & run at their choosing. TBC, BB
 
We, too, had some snow delays but nothing like you have, ugh! The coop is 6'x10' and will be about 6' tall inside after we raise the floor 18"-24" from the grass. Considering whether or not to put the nesting boxes outside or in. The run is 10' x 24' and will be at least partially roofed to keep rain out. Regardless, what ever isn't roofed will have netting. Our intent is to allow the girls to access their coop & run at their choosing. TBC, BB
Ive also had snow slow me down, now another project has come in the way with 49 days left I need to get busy!

Gary
 

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